BAM engine loom and plugs!

just swap the 17/18/100 relay to slot 12. its fused, and you can check the pump wiring is ok at the same time.

wirign looks ok apart from you have missed off an earth in last photo. if its for the ecu, thats probably why no fuel pump prime as its ecu controlled

The earth is a ring at ecu and a spade at the fusebox so doesn't actually do anything by the looks of things.

Should the pump do something if I put a direct connection from the battery, because it doesn't.

I'm guessing there is something amiss as there is no power on the red/yellow that is the supply from the board, 

not sure what you mean? what have you got in Z/2 on the fusebox, the big spade on its own

The large brown from the battery is in Z2

The earth with the ring connector in the image has a spade at the other end (which comes out of the new loom at the fuse box) so it's a metre long piece of cable that does do anything!.

ok cool, next check is put 17/18/100 relay in slot 12 and check to see if you have ignition live between the red/yellow and brown on your pump loom. if you do, fusebox and wiring is ok.

the fact you get nothing from pump when jumped from battery suggests its buggered, take it out and have a look!

Are we talking about the pump under the car or in the fuel tank?

I have the main supply from the battery in Y3 and that's it, the red/back from the ecu loom in Z1 and a new fused cable from the BAM ecu loom in Y2.

I get 1.75 volts when I turn the ignition on across the red/yellow and brown.

as i say, 1st put a 17/18 or 100 in slot 12 of the fusebox (where the 167 is now) then you should see full 12v ignition on.

fuel pump wise if you have jumped the lifter every which way with 12v and its still not doing owt, its dead. take it out and have a look

I only get 1.7 v across the red/yellow with ignition on or off.

Have I got the supply to the board correct?

ok if no voltage even with a 17/18/100 in slot 12 ignition on then there is an issue with pump wiring, or fuse blown, or fuse/relay slot corroded. Does the relay click at least?

with the lifter now you need to chase the 2 wires from the pump, check which pins they end up on the outside. the live pin will go direct to a pin on top, the earth pin will be common to the pump and the level sender, level sender pin will go straight to the last pin on the plug.

jump the pump with 12v straight off the battery, see if it does anything (watch out for fuel spray )

Your patience has started to pay off…
Left pin (yellow cable) is the earth and the centre pin (black) is the power and the pump hums away nicely.

I'll check over the connections at the relay etc but the board/connections are mint condition.

So now with the lifer pump/sender back it the tank and everything connected if I put 12v direct to the connections for the lifter and under car pumps the hum away nicely so both pumps are good but still nothing to the red/yellow.

right so go back to the fusebox side, with 17/18/100 in slot 12 switch ignition on and check between M 1 and 2 on the fusebox, its a black plug cant miss it. if nothign then its fusebox or fuse, if you do have power then your wiring is damaged somewhere between fusebox and pump

I've removed the 20A fuse (slot 18) and stuffed a cable that's fed direct from the battery into the connector that the fuse would normally locate in and the pumps hum.

So does that mean I've got the supply to the board incorrectly wired?

if you get power when you stuff 12v striaght into the fuse socket then your pump wiring is all good. this leaves fuse issue (try another one) or fusebox issue.

the 17/18/100 relay is trigger feeds are all direct from the internal fusebox ignition and earth rails, so as long as the ignition switch and wiring is good as well as the main earth that side is fool proof. the main live side is fed from the big 30-30b jumper which I can see is fitted so thats all fine too.

its possible fusebox has been water damaged, my fuel relay socket was a bit poor due to this, eventually the fuel pump fuse melted as well

Hooray you've done it. CHEERS.

Now to see while it won't start !!!

Joooooohn, John it runs it bloody runs.

I am so grateful for all your help yesterday. Now to tidy up and make good all the temporary connections on that side of thing before I start on the headlamp loom connections.

DIAMOND GEZZA 

awesome

Got all the tail lights working yesterday which I'm chuffed about, after lots of head scratching it came down to the earth and reversing needed swapping around in the 6 way multi connector and bingo. I've connected the rear wash wipe as per FAQ info but nothing doing but that for another day, today is head lights and alternator , is the hot line open for business John ?

I've got the MK4 alternator loom so here goes …

check the contacts at the base of the stalk are clean, have you gone for seperate front and rear washer tank or have to redone it like mk2 with just the front?

alternator is easy peasy, 1 wire from mk4 to blue on the mk2 loom near battery

Just one water bottle in the MK1 location, the MK2 rear loom still had the pipe in it.

I've just had a look at the connection on the tailgate and there is an earth (guessing as it's brown) with a female spade terminal that isn't connected to anything.

I've got the MK4 loom in front of me, there's the main large positive cable and a 4 pin D and 2 x 2 pin D's 1 with a pin female insert and 1 with a black insert, both have black heat shrink over the wires, what do I need from it?