Problems with power
Posted
Settling In
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Settling In
Could distributor cap and rotor cause this ? I have cleaned them but they seem to be very old..
Last edit: by Petrif91
Posted
Local Hero
A bad cap can cause this type of thing, but validating that your timing is spot on, and that you have now vacuum leaks is better. Don't forget on a Digi that you have a idle air bypass screw on the back side of the throttle body against the firewall. If you can turn that 7mm screw with your hands, then the o-ring is CA-CA-d00d00 and needs to be replaced. Going back count the turns you take to remove it. Write that number down, then replace the o-ring and wrap the threads and only the threads of that screw with Teflon tape.
You might want to unplug your o2 sensor if equipped and see if it doesn't run a tad better, It will run in limp or enriched mode, mileage will suffer a wee bit but can go a ways to tell you.
1st set the time.
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Posted
MOTY 2013
if you suspect the ignition components then just get new, they are not expensive, oem beru parts can be had here:
AVS Car Parts - [The VW - Audi - Seat - Skoda Parts Specialist]
have a good look at the filler neck make sure its not rotten, have a look inside the tank too check the lifter pump strainer and for any debris inside:
View topic: Fuel Tank cleaning *HowTo* clear that blockage - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
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Posted
Settling In
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Local Hero
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Settling In
Posted
Local Hero
Again wrap the Threads and threads only with Teflon tape, the yellow gas type works a wee bit better.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settling In
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Settling In
Strange but now it does like it that when the engine is cold or started again it runs perfect for a while.
Last edit: by Petrif91
Posted
Local Hero
The Idle switch? the one at the top is the WOT, and the twos switches on the bottom are a go/nogo.
when it hesitates what are the symptoms?
The Tach drops revs then comes back, to the gauges flicker when this happens.
Is there a loud whine from the right rear wheel arch?
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
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Posted
MOTY 2013
the switch on top of the throttle body6 is for the cold throttle enrichment system, it sends power to the metal valve on the airbox.
if the valve also detects load form the vacuum pipe to the inlet it sends power to the 5th injector, which will only fire if the engine is cold
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Posted
Local Hero
rubjonny said
get the idle and co reset, you've fixed an air leak.
the switch on top of the throttle body6 is for the cold throttle enrichment system, it sends power to the metal valve on the airbox.
if the valve also detects load form the vacuum pipe to the inlet it sends power to the 5th injector, which will only fire if the engine is cold
PSST Digifants don't have a 5th injector.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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Posted
Settling In
Posted
MOTY 2013
for the reset follow the procedure in my digifant guide, link on page 1. I wouldn't bother messing with the CO though unless you have access to pro equipment, just do the base idle check. the DIY CO meters don't work very well I find. Print the guide out and show it to your local garage
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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Posted
Local Hero
Petrif91 said
How can i do the reset ? Well rpm doesnt drop but acceleration feels like sticky. Like getting off from bubble gum.
That could be but not limited to the Throttlebody Stop incorrectly positioned, the Throttle body butterfly can stick on the TB if the stop isn't correctly positioned…
The Screw on the top of the TB isn't for Idle speed adjustment. It is to position the butterfly so that it can't jam closed. It is adjusted for the butterfly to be about 2 (RPH)from complete closure factory set and usually never needs adjustment unless you dinked with it.
The throttle position switch (on the bottom of the throttle body) is to tell the ECU that the butterfly is out of the rest position and that you should be increasing the rev of the engine.
From the looks of it you can remove the Accel Cable and manually feel if it is binding. If it is then Spray WD-40 on the return spring, and work it if it goes away then it was the mechanism that was binding if it doesn't then you need to remove the Air Tube to look at the butterfly if there isn't a small GAP between the butterfly and the TB throat, then that could be your issue.
As I stated the micro switch at the top is for WOT (Wide Open Throttle) (it is actually called the Full Throttle switch) it can be tested as a go/no-go open when off closed when depressed with a multimeter.
When the car is running there should be 5V on one side and open on the other closing the switch sends the 5V back to the ECU.
It sends a signal to the controller (ECU) that full throttle enrichment is to be used…..
I have never had to make a Idle Adjustment on the MAF, and from what I have heard it doesn't make a whole lot of difference anyways.
Timing, Timing Timing, is the best thing you can do.
Oh, another gimme,,,,, Read more about it in the Bentley Section 5-page 55
Don't have a Bentley, I would get one, it was the 3rd Tablet handed down to Moses.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
rubjonny said
oops ignore all of that, I forgot this was a digifant thread. all of that is for later DX and EV kjet engines
for the reset follow the procedure in my digifant guide, link on page 1. I wouldn't bother messing with the CO though unless you have access to pro equipment, just do the base idle check. the DIY CO meters don't work very well I find. Print the guide out and show it to your local garage
Well we all can't be right all the time but you do tend to be spot on.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
MOTY 2013
Thinking about it the co% screw may not make so much difference on the US models which have the lambda sensor to help the ecu compensate, but for the UK PB engine without one you need this set properly else it can result in drivability issues especially if its way out.
I found this out the hard way, used my brand new gunsen CO meter to set mine to '1.5%' but when it was checked on pro equipment it was found to be more like 0.2%. This led to really bad juddering when cruising at steady speeds from time to time asnd it stank of fuel as it was chucking out loads of unburnt hydro carbons out the back.
I'm not sure if the PF engine sold/imported to the UK market would have a lambda or no, but its an easy check just get underneath and look in the exhaust downpipe/cat
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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Local Hero
Petrif91 said
Thank you again, lets see what happens when testing. BTW where can i get that bentley ?
Amazon or a good used bookseller should have them.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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