1.6 carb to kjet 16v wiring help

Ive now connected most of the dash and rear loom to the CE2 box and connectors, just have a few wires left to figure out like VDO voltage signal and clock and where i get ignition on light from.

The next step is the engine bay loom, which has got me wondering about what to do with the mk3 8v ECU that is part of the loom still, and joining in the 16v ECU and kjet stuff.

I'm yet to have a proper sit down and try at it, but any tips as to the general direction I should head in?

well you could just get a 90spec 16v loom, that would make your life a lot easier. most of the wires will need shortening so it doesnt even have to be in 100% perfect nick

i found out after lots of head scratching that you also need a temp gauge suited to the new engine !!!! the old carbed engine gauge will read way too high even though the engine is at 89'

no you just fit the correct temp sensor to match the gauge. but mk1, 2 and 3 coolant temp gauges are all the same rating, as are the sensors that drive them

odd as i have three brand new VW temp sensors in the engine and which ever one i take the feed off its always the same reading, right over… the actual temp of the engine is 89' using an infra-red sensor its just the gauge thats wrong.

sounds like a wiring fault to the gauge then, or a cluster problem. if gauge goes right to full this would suggest a short to ground somewhere in the loom

the guage doesnt go right over any more like it used too, but it goes way up, when i first did the conversion it didnt work at all as i crossed two wires,sorted that and  it went right over instantly sorted that and it climbed slowly but didnt stop,tuned the k-jet some more then it wouldn't move until i revved it and then it went up high  now the K-jet has been set up correctly fuelling mix and pressure is spot on etc the guage climbs slower but steady  but just goes up too high, no doubt if i had the engine running for longer it would creep all the way over, but the engine is at 89'

If it was a short i'd expect it to shoot straight over to max ? It may be a cluster problem the Speedo has stopped working, the worm drive is connected and in place so i wonder if i've managed to pull it loose from the back of the cluster, this may have caused problems with the ribbon or connector, will investigate at the end of the week

half way on the cluster is around 90degrees give or take, so that would be about right? the speedo is mechanical so it shouldnt have any effect on the electrical side of things. maybe there is an earth fault in the car, these can cause all sorts of odd things as current finds alternative paths to ground such as thru the oil switches, temp gauge etc.

check the braided earth from the rocker cover to one of the coil mounting bolts is present, or fit one if missing. this was an addition on later mk1 and mk2 and it can help with dodgy clusters

plus do the usual checks on all the earths behind the fusebox, plus if its a gti cluster the earth for it runs to the side of the head look for a brown/white wire

the cluster currently in it is the original clipper cluster, i was wondering if the speedo cable has come disconnected and is now causing a short by touching something it shouldn't be ?

will double check all the earths.  

hmm maybe, it has a plastic end on the later ones but maybe the cable has come apart or curled up at an inopportune angle

I'm knee deep in wiring at the moment, mk1 mk2 mk3 8v 16v u name it

I've got the mk2 16v engine bay looms, and i'm steadily getting there. I'm running the wires in the wing, and the battery in the boot. For the fuesbox earth (chunky brown) that goes to a multi-splice, and then to the battery neg, can I just splice into that near the fusebox and run inside back to the battery?

Also I'm in need of a starter cable, from battery, any recommendations on size/rating?

cheers for all the help/inspriation!

no, i really dont think that you are. maybe you should check my wiring shed. now THAT literally is knee deep with wiring

as long as that earth has a good solid connection to another chunky earth back to the battery you should be fine. however what I would do is get some battery cables from a BMW or similar, the type with junction terminals in the engine bay for the battery cabling. run the fusebox and gearbox live/earths to those

Okay yeah i like that idea, jumping terminals basically. thanks

Prob a silly question, but does the negative still have to go back to the battery? doesnt just earth in the bay?

i wouldnt try to earth the engine via the chassis, run a proper earth back to the battery. chassis is fine for most things but not the engine (well technically its not the engine earth that matters, its the starter earth really )

Right you are then

The earth cable back to the battery needs to be pretty chunky then.

I have bought a BMW + cable and the terminal, just need a - terminal and the cable

When it comes to the coolant sensors, what should I do as the mk2 has two right…?

Also, where does the Black wire that goes from the throttle position switch go? 16v Haynes manual says low level coolant switch - I dont see it anywhere! I've deleted the expansion tank, and using a 1.3 top fill rad with one thermo switch - no level sensor.

aaaaand….where do I get vacuum for the WUR?

Any help - much appreciated

the 16v has 3, 1 for dash, 1 for isv control and last one is for the ecu. they should all be the small black single spade type, same rating for them all

black wire is ignition live, it just goes via the low level warnign control relay ign live spade

wur vacuum comes from the pipe on the 5th injector housing for the ISV

the 16v has 3, 1 for dash, 1 for isv control and last one is for the ecu. they should all be the small black single spade type, same rating for them all

black wire is ignition live, it just goes via the low level warnign control relay ign live spade

wur vacuum comes from the pipe on the 5th injector housing for the ISV

http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Fproject-83-mk1-cabby

Righty

So ive got the (charged) battery earthed in the boot now, and the starter earth is in the engine bay. I get ignition power and my headlights work (yes!) but i go to start and the starter engages with a click but doesnt turn. Maybe theres an earthing issue - I have yet to fit the gearbox to body engine head to coil mounting earths.

I am yet to buy a multimeter as well, so any recommendations on one to buy?