mk1 golf running and alternator issue
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#1555909
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car starts and cuts out and battery not charging
Posted
Local Hero
Also the blue exciter wire feeds the Alternator the tickle to start the fields to charge, so that could also be the issue.
I would look at fuel delivery, as in Fuel Filter or fuel pump, as you didn't state if the car was Carbed, or Injected….
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Old Timer
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MOTY 2013
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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Posted
MOTY 2013
have a listen out for the fuel pump, it should run while the engine is cranking, and see if it carrys on running for a couple seconds after the engine cuts or not.
Also does the rev counter work? if not then the fuel relay may not be getting a rev pulse which triggers it to keep it running after the engine has fired.
if you swap a 17/18/100 relay to the fuel pump socket your fuel pump should be on all the time with the ignition which can help with troubleshooting.
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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Posted
Local Hero
So for the first few minutes everything is fine?
For a test of your grounds, take a pair of battery jumper cables, and attach the red pair from the negative battery post to good frame ground ie: the nuts holding the strut tower.
Take the Black pair and attach that from the negative battery post to the Engine/Tranny.
Start the car and check to see that the battery is getting 13.5V. This would be an indication that the Alternator is putting out the correct voltage, but not a true test of the current it is putting out. After hard starts or continious run of the starter, you can drain a marginally good battery and it can't take the re-charge. If your battery hasn't been tested off the car, then it might be wise for you to remove the Battery and Alternator and have it tested to verify that it is 100percent functional and that cells aren't shorting out under load.
Grounding issues which is why I ask that you jumper them is another condition which can cause issues on a 30 year old car, I usually replace the grounds on a new to me used car as I have been burnt before by them.
The car cutting out and dieing after 10 minutes of running could be a battery issue as well. I would suspect the fuel pump for over heating at a 10 minute mark, and is this fuel injected or Carbed?
There are also suspect aftermarket fuel pump relays, that have caused similar issues as they over heat get cold solder joints, stop working then a few minutes later the cool enough to start the car, then heat up and die.
One test would be to Jumper the relay out as a test to see if the issue is the relay or the fuel pump.
Over here those with CIS injection usually carry a know good spare in the boot or glove box, the Digifant cars don't seem to have the same issue with overheating Fuel pump Relays.
This sure sounds electrically suspect so getting the battery tested out of the car as well as the alternator wouldn't be a bad first step.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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