Entire Hood Removal
Posted
#1540029
(In Topic #205706)
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Can someone tell me how I take my entire roof off in one go on my cabby? It's going back on after some spraying and then being replaced by a company later.
Many Thanks
Zack
Posted
MOTY 2013
undo the rear corner tension straps where they fit to the back corners of the boot area, and remove the lower rear glass hinges. tilt the seat, pull the lock knobs off if its a manual roof and remove the plastic trim pieces either side to reveal all the main hood fixings.
there are 3 bolts either side for the main hinge pivots, plus a couple for the hood ram lower brackets. If you pop the circlips off the top of the rams you can take those off too to avoid having them flap about the place
Thats it from the top of my head, but have a good look around in case there is something I have forgotten! Be sure to rope in a freind to help lift the hood, doing it by yourself is a real chore but it is doable if you are billy no mates
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Local Hero
Entire Hood Removal
the headliner sail panels. are. Pulled over spikes and glued too.
So a wide blade flat screwdriver to prise the spikes open.
Undo the headliner from there and the two screws n cups that hold it in the corners.
Don't forget to take the rear window heater wires off and remove the plastic covers that go over the connectors.
Then work the wires out of the seal.
There's different arrangements on rams if you've got power top or a manual roof with gas struts. There is 8 bolts that hold the roof assembly in position on a power top.
It's also easier to remove the lot with it in the down position.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
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Posted
Local Hero
Plus some plastic bags to put bolts in etc and don't forget to label what's in there etc.
"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
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rubjonny said
yes, open the roof a bit then go in the boot and peel/unhook the C pillar trims from the bottom of the parcel shelf supports, go outside and remove the plastic trim pieces in the corners. next locate and loosen the rear tension cable from both sides till the hood can be pulled out of the lip round the back. the cable will probably want binning.
undo the rear corner tension straps where they fit to the back corners of the boot area, and remove the lower rear glass hinges. tilt the seat, pull the lock knobs off if its a manual roof and remove the plastic trim pieces either side to reveal all the main hood fixings.
there are 3 bolts either side for the main hinge pivots, plus a couple for the hood ram lower brackets. If you pop the circlips off the top of the rams you can take those off too to avoid having them flap about the place
Thats it from the top of my head, but have a good look around in case there is something I have forgotten! Be sure to rope in a freind to help lift the hood, doing it by yourself is a real chore but it is doable if you are billy no mates
I just seen this comment so I'll just do that…
Posted
Local Hero
http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/FrameRemoval.pdf
You will need a Helper as the frame is heavy with the layers on, and cumbersome.
Remove the 2 corner covers on the rear window edge (2 Phillips screws).
Remove the rear quarter window cards.
Remove the Rear seat top and bottom.
Remove the knobs on the frame latches.
Remove the plastic covers.
Un-hook the headliner from the fingers in the trunk 6-7 of them each side inside of trunk.
Remove the lower Strut holders (10mm) get them out of your way.
Remove the rear cable nuts and remove the cable from the tray
Carefully remove the cable and top from the tray.
Lift the top loose from the tray all around and lift the corners, this will expose the 2 corner straps 2 10mm bolts and one Phillips screw on each side
Remove the 2 10mm bolts from the rear window frame lower and remove the 2 wires from the defroster and un-wind them from the seal and out the bottom. (take the plastic covers off of the connectors.) ( Or cut the wires and use butt-to-butt connectors when going back.)
Collapse and lock the frame closed.
Remove the 3 15 or 17mm bolts on the side frame and the one 13mm at the rear. each side.
Use a couple of pieces of nylon masons twine to tie the assembly in the closed position.
Have helper assist you in removing top/hood assembly off the car.
I have a bunch of pictures in my how do I do thats in the archive section under my how-do-i-do-that links.
If you don't Tie the Frame in the closed position if it unlatches it kind of can get away from you.... Bungie cords work as well.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
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They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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Posted
Local Hero
Then the top motor can switch on.
If the motor spins but nothing is going on, then look at the res and see if there is oil.
If there is no oil, then your motor is leaking, or the hoses and rams are? If there is oil on the rear seat bottom, then that is usually the hoses or rams.
If there is oil in the rear or wheel well, then the motor or hoses at the motor are the issue.
If there is oil in the res, and the motor spins but nothing happens then that is the impeller is loose on the shaft.
www.cabby-info.com has the how do you fix that.
To remove a powered hood, you will remove the hoses off the motor that attach at the pump.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
I would refer to the bentley and short out the interlocks (bypass) then you are at a relay or switch issue if the fuse is good.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
Entire Hood Removal
Then pull the material out the cable channel and tuck it in to the open area.
Very little masking to do by the painters and easier to replace after.
Unless you're putting a new roof on.
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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
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Posted
Local Hero
Entire Hood Removal
It's designed that way so you can't open the roof whilst in motion or engine running.
Key in links the switch at the bottom and provides live feed for the roof.
There is thermal re setting fuse and another fuse for the roof these are listed In the owners manual hand book.
Those are located on a seperate block just above the fuse box.
So if no power look at ign switch too.
If you suspect the switch you can swap it for a power window one. Pin out is the same. If you ain't got power window see if someone can lend you one.
That should eliminate if the switch is at fault.
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Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
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T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshiŁ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline
Golf mk1 owner's club on Spotify
Mk1 golf owners club playlist: Golf mk1 owner's club playlist - YouTube
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Kenneth Cartwright said
For painting you can do this way…“Guest” does not have access to re-use this attachment.
Kenneth i`m about to do the same on my clipper. The roof is currently servicable but getting replaced in around 6 weeks.
I`ve got the body 90% prepped for painting but struggling to see how to get the roof to a position so i can paint under the rear of the roof.
Then i spotted your pic !!
I would really appreciate it of you (or anyone else) can advice on how to release that rear end of the hood for painting and then replacing afterwards?
Thanks
Posted
Local Hero
top, up
under the boot remove the headliner from the keeper fingers
Find the 10mm bolt that holds the lower pivot to the frame remove it.
Lover the rear 1/4 window.
You can see the bolt between the headliner and the outer shell behind the rear frame.
Using a 10, or 11mm Articulating ratcheting box wrench
Hold the body of the bolt with a 6mm or 7mm open end wrench and use the speed wrench on the nut. Remove the nut both sides.
Push the bolt out of the keeper…
I have used needle nose vice grips to hold the cable.
You might want to spritz a little wd-40 on the bolt so the nut spins easier.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
Entire Hood Removal
Unscrew the side trims with press stud on it.
Undo c pillar cap seals and lift out
This gives you access to the 10 mm nuts on the rear cable studs.
Undo these use a 10mm flexi head ratchet spanner
Withdraw cable out the side entry points and pull out rear cable channel.
Depending on how bad the rear cable channel is you may need to unscrew the headliner from the rear corner (hidden by the plastic trim across the rear) and take out the 10mm bolts for the corner webbing straps.
This will give more access to the area.
This is how we do it.
And we do lots of new hoods, headliners etc.
Aldo make sure the metal plate is firmly attached behind the trims.
Otherwise you’ll have no where to fix the hood to. The result is that the screw will rock up and down and pull a hole in the body.
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Posted
Regional Host NE
Re: Entire Hood Removal
Unlike nuuujjchortle said
Lower hood.
Unscrew the side trims with press stud on it.
Undo c pillar cap seals and lift out
This gives you access to the 10 mm nuts on the rear cable studs.
Undo these use a 10mm flexi head ratchet spanner
Withdraw cable out the side entry points and pull out rear cable channel.
Depending on how bad the rear cable channel is you may need to unscrew the headliner from the rear corner (hidden by the plastic trim across the rear) and take out the 10mm bolts for the corner webbing straps.
This will give more access to the area.
This is how we do it.
And we do lots of new hoods, headliners etc.
Aldo make sure the metal plate is firmly attached behind the trims.
Otherwise you’ll have no where to fix the hood to. The result is that the screw will rock up and down and pull a hole in the body.
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Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Regional Host NE
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
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