Cabriolet rear tension cable

I know this topic has had one or two threads before but im lost with what to do now. I dont like to feel im being beaten but this rear tension cable is getting the better of me.
I have put a new cable through because the old one was showing just above the boot and the side tension cables were snapped so put 2 new ones of those in. i can not for the life of me get it under tension and get it tucked in under the lip along the boot. its constantly showing. its an even gap all the way along but its biting so tight on the corners it wont remove the slack. If i have the hood slightly open then it all goes in nice and neat by hand obviously because there is no real tension.

Some of the issue is that the hood has now formed in a shape around where the cable goes if that makes sense. Its held its shape from where it has been in the channel and wont really be manipulated easily. Should i tuck as much in as i can then fit the cable so it drags as much of the hood material into the channel as possible. Even my fingers are sore trying this because ive struggled that much lol.

I need some help. my dads coming to help me out tomorrow but i know the best help is through here.

I had to hammer mine in the grove, open the roof alittle and get a block of wood and hammer, place wood on edge of roof near the channel and give it a tap, work from one end to the other. close the roof and see if it's any better if not try the same again to see if the gap closes up.

Have you read the guide on replacing the roof on this site? it explains this.

Found it.
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=cedi&type=misc&id=42%2F31%2F33%2F34%2F35
 

Great post from Mark above but if you're still struggling have a chat with chortle because he can do roofs with his eyes closed!    

Just google search on here a little bit if green paint it should take you to my project.
Nip to page 6 and have a look in there.
It shows me fitting roof and the rear tension cable.

There are different ones.
Some off EBay no good as they are not the proper diameter and unsleeved.
It's the thicker part that traps the material in the channel.

Unsleeved pull on the corners stretching the cable acting like a fulcrum so it pops out, no matter how many times you pop em back in.




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If you're near Derby pop over and I have spare proper ones here.
So we can sort it..


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chortle said

If you're near Derby pop over and I have spare proper ones here.
So we can sort it..


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Outstanding my friend!  😀😉

I have had a good read of that guide for fitting a new roof and it helped me understand what i needed to do but i think i am fighting a losing battle.

The cable i have is a proper one from classic vw and has a sleeve on it.

i used wood to drift it in and tighten it up as i went along, taking all the slack out of the middle but i had to do this with the roof partially open. I got it all the way in nice an tight and then the side parts drifted in aswell.  I closed the hood to almost fully closed but as i latched the j hooks inside, the cable popped out of the back again!!!
I think this hood has been poorly fitted previously because when its fully closed, theres not enough material left for the cable to grip onto and pull into the channel. When its open then its fine. the corners and sides have loads of material for it to pull in. In the middle its too tight and wont pull in. hope that makes sense.

And to top it off now, the hood has a bit of slack now where the main bearing is where you screw the plastic cover over the beading…….sigh.

Just want someone to sort it all out for me now lol. The inner skin is torn already, some slight slight bowing in the hood and now the rear cable cant be adjusted. Wonder whether to fork out for a complete new hood and having a pro fit it?????? get it all done and dusted

Thanks Chortle, i live in the north west, bit of a trek to get there!

Not sure what classic sell cable wise.

You need to have the roof halfway down minimum anyway and the cable fully tightened virtually no thread left showing on the cable stud end.

Can you put some pics up mate?
Can't be that bad surely…


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Can you see the pics on  post above yours mate? Yep i ran out of thread at least on one side.

You think if its nearly fully down then it might go in more?? When hoods up it will be too tight wont it if there is not enough material like i mentioned before.

It might not be as terrible as i make out but im stuck with what to do

Hmmmm
Ok.

Open hood just over halfway down.

Drift the cable back in fully tighten nuts on stud ends.
If the cable has gone into channel place a cloth and a block of wood on the edge and bosh down with a rubber mallet to close the channel up.
Do this equally and with a longer bit of wood to even the pressure. Don't use a square bit as that will just put a dint in.

As for the hood at the hinge you need to check you've not trapped the hood material against the channel and that the cable is sitting in the actual runner  it's fit into. I use silicone lube the plumbers use to put push fit drain pipes together.
So the thinner part of the cable can glide in the slit proper otherwise it gets trapped and doesn't fully tighten up.

If the top is a bit tight close the hood as far as possible and wet it, then place in the sun to get nice and warm.
Gentley stand on the door opening and bounce the top down letting it spring up..
Once it touches the header seal.
Undo the lock collars on the J hooks… Wind the hooks out & try to latch them when leaning on the edge of the roof.
Once it's latched leave it for a while, then wind the hooks in a little etc.
A hot wet roof will stretch back.  Just don't over pull on the latch handles as these have a tendency to snap.

Would of been quicker to shoot here get it done and get home again lol…
It's all a learning curve though..


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That sounds like a good idea actually. The channel is quite deep and plenty of width to get it snug in then tighten it up whilst its down and close the channel up. I like your thinking!! lol

You know what, if i knew i would of spent aslong as i have done faffing with all this i could of come today! Sods law because im starting extra long shifts at work next week and i know ill not get a chance to sort it asap

Easier said than done putting a wet roof out in the sun. I live in Morecambe and the sunshine is a rare thing lol. i know what you mean though, gently gently stretch the hood just that little bit. This could work  

I massively appreciate you taking the time help out though Chortle, a credit to the forum!! If i cant get any further with it then ill be sure to see if you free for me to come down and have a crack at it

A hot wet roof will stretch back.  Just don't over pull on the latch handles as these have a tendency to snap.

Would of been quicker to shoot here get it done and get home again lol…
It's all a learning curve though..

    

I have done over 15 of these and everyone has issues sometimes.  

I have found that the newer all vinyl cable has to be shimmed to get it tight to hold the rear in.

Some of the old hardsheathed cables fracture if you look at them wrong.  

And half opening the top to get the slop and tension off is almost a given.  

Trust me the first top I installed I used the Forrest Kings Word doc, and it wasn't totally accurate.

Oh, and when you are closing the hood, be sure that you roll down your rear windows about a turn of the handle.

You won't tend to break latches as the top frame can't use the window as a fulcrum.

Good point on rolling the rear windows down too.

Brad if you pm me your phone number I can talk you through it if need be.
 


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