Mars Red Tintop @ VAGE 2017
Posted
Settled In
Sticker Pig
Posted
Moderator
Posted
Moderator
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Settled In
Sticker Pig
Posted
Old Timer
Do it once and do it right! ok, we've identified the problem, lets not make it worse by guessing……… Identifying the sympton is not the same as understanding the cause
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Moderator
Alternator was next…
Again in need of a decent clean…
All parts dissembled and labelled for later use…
Pics after the hours of sanding and painting.
I couldn't separate the casing so left it intact, masked off and painted around with aluminium finish paint.
Managed to track down a replacement sticker from DMB Graphics too.
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Old Timer
Andy
Posted
Moderator
Posted
Moderator
To start I prepared the bits by wrapping in masking tape to stop any dust coming in the fuel lines.
It was sanded and polished using a steel wheel and portable hand drill. I took my time getting into those hard to reach places bringing back the aluminium material back to shiny.
When complete I removed all the injection pipes and masked up.
Three lights coats of grey etch primer. Then a couple of aluminium top coats. I think the secret here is to be patient between coats. I used a heat gun to heat the metal before and after paint. This allowed the paint to stick or adhere better and no major drips or run off.
Further masking off of the main body just to reveal the head part. This I hand painted in black gloss.
All my fuel lines were sanded back and a coat of aluminium finish was applied. This took as much time as the head itself. I had initially wanted to get a plated look here but settled for the aluminium in the end.
I got a new set of banjo bolts and washers from KMI in the UK to complete the refurbishment.
Here it is…
Looks smart and a lot better than when I started.
Posted
Local Hero
Out of interest, is there any reason you didn't remove the fuel distribution block from the metering head to paint? (I'm asking as I thought it's a simple removal but am not sure! lol)
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
Posted
Moderator
I contacted KMI by phone and told them what I was doing re the refurb on the engine - they want approx £300 to set up the metering head and recondition any of the worn bits etc. I knew the metering head was OK on their advice and others I decided not to touch or fiddle with it. It is a delicate piece of kit and I didn't want to disturb any parts or plungers or create any extra problems for myself. I left it alone and painted it by hand. It was pretty simple task really. The paint brush can do just as good a job when you take your time.
Posted
Moderator
Posted
Local Hero
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
Posted
Moderator
Inlet manifold and throttle body on…
Nice clip detail for the clutch cable…
Little earth bracket on the back of the head…
Water pump, alternator and warm up regulator in position…
Trottle body detail…
Extra pipe work in place - air intake, vacuum, coolant, distributor plugs and leads.
View from the back…
View from the top…
I spent ages polishing up an old VW AUDI oil cap I had - looks good.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Website Manager
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.