Cant get dizzy to move for timing
Posted
#1306189
(In Topic #157390)
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Yes - I have had this happen.
what I did was:-
With the car not running,
- I disconnected the battery (for saftey)
- marked the dizzy body and the engine block with tip-ex or a touch up stick (so you could see where the dizzy was originally)
- slackend off the clamp (really loose)
- sprayed the joint between dizzy body and block with WD 40 (or similar)
- waited a moment
- at this point - using both hands it might wiggle free - if not
- I aimed a large screw driver at the joint between dizzy and block
- gave the screw driver a swift tap (light tap) with a hammer and it freed it!
Be carefull - it was a swift, but sharp tap (light) - you are only trying to break a seal.
hope it helps
regards
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Restored 1961 Mk1 Mini Misses drives a 10 plate bmw mini cooper d sports pack Me drives a 61 plated C220 CDI Restored 1960\'s forecourt petrol pump 1964 P4 Rover 110 resorted by my dad 23 years ago On the look out for LBD 376Y
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I removed the radiator fan to give better access, then removed the dizzy clamp bolt completely. I then got the wheel nut wrench from the boot and placed it under the dizzy. I then gave it a whack with a hammer using the corner of the wrench as a pivot point, therefore the force was being exerted directly up into the dizzy, and it then popped out.
Posted
MOTY 2013
next use a thin screwdriver all round the lip between dizzy and block scrape out all the crud, then more penatrating oil and go off and leave it for an hour or so. next get some mole grips and clamp round the shaft (not too tight!!) then gently tap them left and right with a hammer. you're not aiming for the brute force approach, rather you're aiming to shock the dizzy loose
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
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