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Your search for “"Compensator valve"” gave 69 results:
Post #1491007 by Brynboru on 22 June 2015, 3:29 PM (in topic “Cabbie Rear Brake Conversion to Disc (1982)”)
Posted
Settled In
Cabbie Rear Brake Conversion to Disc (1982)
I'd be most grateful for help in clarifying some aspects of a conversion from drum to discs on a 1982 Cabbie.
I've haven't been able to find any images of the mounting bracket used for a conversion between the old style compensation valve for drum brakes and the new Mk2 regulator supplied to me as part of the conversion kit from VW Heritage. I'm not even sure if I have figured out the correct orientation for the new valve.
I list photos showing the two brake lines from the base of the old master cylinder which link to the load compensator valve. Next photo is the old valve shown alongside the new valve, (part #357-612-151). I have placed these together in what I imagine is the way the one replaces the other.
Also are photos of the pipes from the master cylinder where they terminate at the mounting point for the old regulator valve. Finally I have a photo of the rear axle connection point which previously carried the bold for the valve spring.
I also attach a schematic from partsbase.org, which indicates how the brake lines enter and exit the load compensator valve and connect to the rear brake calipers. However it does not show which of my master cylinder ports is connected to this valve.
Can anyone advise me which port from my old master cylinder is connected to which of the two bottom entry ports of the new regulator valve shown on the schematic? Does it matter which way round they are connected in the sense of are they a "flow and return" system? I cannot tell that from the schematic, as my master cylinder is the original and does not match the one shown on the schematic.
I shall be making new brake lines as necessary, so I am not trying to match the old brake lines to the new regulator valve.
Unfortunately I don't live near anyone who might have already done such a conversion. It would be great if someone could point me towards a reference with photos and an explanation!
Perhaps if someone can answer this it will help others, as this is a conversion which is often recommended.
I've haven't been able to find any images of the mounting bracket used for a conversion between the old style compensation valve for drum brakes and the new Mk2 regulator supplied to me as part of the conversion kit from VW Heritage. I'm not even sure if I have figured out the correct orientation for the new valve.
I list photos showing the two brake lines from the base of the old master cylinder which link to the load compensator valve. Next photo is the old valve shown alongside the new valve, (part #357-612-151). I have placed these together in what I imagine is the way the one replaces the other.
Also are photos of the pipes from the master cylinder where they terminate at the mounting point for the old regulator valve. Finally I have a photo of the rear axle connection point which previously carried the bold for the valve spring.
I also attach a schematic from partsbase.org, which indicates how the brake lines enter and exit the load compensator valve and connect to the rear brake calipers. However it does not show which of my master cylinder ports is connected to this valve.
Can anyone advise me which port from my old master cylinder is connected to which of the two bottom entry ports of the new regulator valve shown on the schematic? Does it matter which way round they are connected in the sense of are they a "flow and return" system? I cannot tell that from the schematic, as my master cylinder is the original and does not match the one shown on the schematic.
I shall be making new brake lines as necessary, so I am not trying to match the old brake lines to the new regulator valve.
Unfortunately I don't live near anyone who might have already done such a conversion. It would be great if someone could point me towards a reference with photos and an explanation!
Perhaps if someone can answer this it will help others, as this is a conversion which is often recommended.
Post #1489834 by lhasadreams on 14 June 2015, 7:07 AM (in topic “Difficulty using a posted link”)
Posted
Website Manager
Difficulty using a posted link:
In 2012 we changed the software the site runs on - that is an old style link that unfortunately will not work.
However you can use the search to find the post again.
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=search&type=results&id=ocf_posts&content=%22Compensator+valve%22
To find Compensator valve use "Compensator Valve", quotes are important.
If you want to find compensator and valve in the same post search for
+compensator +valve
However you can use the search to find the post again.
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=search&type=results&id=ocf_posts&content=%22Compensator+valve%22
To find Compensator valve use "Compensator Valve", quotes are important.
If you want to find compensator and valve in the same post search for
+compensator +valve
Post #931984 by peeky on 19 April 2009, 11:27 AM (in topic “brake compensator valve on late cabby”)
Posted
Settled In
brake compensator valve on late cabby
Im restoring an 86 cabby bought as shell and came across a problem. i used my rotten a reg for doner parts and there is no compensator valve mounting holes on the rear of the 86. where is the comp valve on a late cabby? what will i need? i have fitted rear discs and 16v servo and quattro front calipers, do i need a comp valve?
hope some one can help, cheers steve
hope some one can help, cheers steve
Post #614312 by Type17 on 08 June 2005, 1:08 PM (in topic “Brake compensator.”)
Posted
Old Timer
Brake compensator.:
PhillTMK1GTI said
didn't I read a post that if you bleed the brakes, because of this 'great' compensator thing… you HAVE to have the car on the ground or you'll ALWAYS get air in the system??
You'll have to have the compensator valve open, which is easiest to achieve by lowering the car (with the rear wheels off) on to blocks/axle-stands under the bottom of the rear shocks. You can disconnect the spring between the valve and the axle-beam, but this could be trickier than it looks (seized parts, etc).
If you've done it wrong, the symptom that you'll have is that the brake pedal feels firm under pumping, but sinks slowly when kept under pressure. This is exactly the symtom of a dead master cylinder, but if you've just bled the rear brakes, don't panic - your MC is probably fine, but you need to bleed the rears again!
PS: It is a "great" item to have on your car (big-block engined cars only) - In my youth :wink:, I came up to a roundabout in my 1.3 CL (no valve) at a bit of a fast lick, with 4 people in the car, and unexpectedly had to brake heavily for a guy who had shot into the roundabout at speed - I jammed on, the rear of the car lifted, the rear wheels both locked up, and we ended up at about 45 degrees to the Give Way line. We stopped to clean our underwear, and then continued on our way
Post #1584198 by mk1 daz on 11 October 2017, 4:44 PM (in topic “Sold”)
Posted
Old Timer
Sold :
Setting a Mk1 golf rear brake compensator valve.
I've done a massive overhaul of my brakes, new g60 fronts and mk4 rears plus new mc and I've read the compensator valve can make the pedal feel spongy and the pedal fall away when pressed hard.
I've watch a couple of YouTube clips and I want to make sure I've got it right.
I'm going to put the back up on axle stands with the rear wheels sagging, the spring should be loose, the plate should have movement before it hits the piston of the valve.
When I press the brakes the piston should move in and out as I press.
If not I take it it's stuck??
Lower the car down onto the wheels and the spring should now be tight and the plate has pushed the piston fully home.
When I press the brakes the piston should still move in and out.
I have done the rear disc conversion so I've also read you can have the plate not pushing the piston when the cars on the floor then it applies less pressure to the rear discs????
Is that right???
I'm under it now and it's slack.
I've done a massive overhaul of my brakes, new g60 fronts and mk4 rears plus new mc and I've read the compensator valve can make the pedal feel spongy and the pedal fall away when pressed hard.
I've watch a couple of YouTube clips and I want to make sure I've got it right.
I'm going to put the back up on axle stands with the rear wheels sagging, the spring should be loose, the plate should have movement before it hits the piston of the valve.
When I press the brakes the piston should move in and out as I press.
If not I take it it's stuck??
Lower the car down onto the wheels and the spring should now be tight and the plate has pushed the piston fully home.
When I press the brakes the piston should still move in and out.
I have done the rear disc conversion so I've also read you can have the plate not pushing the piston when the cars on the floor then it applies less pressure to the rear discs????
Is that right???
I'm under it now and it's slack.
Post #768447 by ChrisB on 07 November 2007, 8:10 PM (in topic “Chris Burnett's Campaign back up for sale”)
Posted
Old Timer
Chris Burnett's Campaign back up for sale:
Hi,
Apologies I don't get on here very much at all anymore, so only just seen this as someone PM-ed me about it. Just to confirm this was my Lhasa green Campaign, and it is a very original car with lots of history in very good condition.
I can also vouch for Liam (finchyboy), as being a straight up guy to deal with. The interior, especially the seats, parcel shelf and door cards are all in fantastic condition. They came from a lhasa green Mk1 that had been written off with only 60K miles on the clock. The wheel I had on it was an original Campaign one with a professional retrim by none other than our own Crazyquiff.
I sold the car with a full automec copper brake pipe kit and braided flexi hoses which I believe Liam has fitted along with upgraded master cylinder and new brake compensator valve. The grill has the original Campaign fogs, and the P-slots are also genuine Campaign items. It also had a brand new Bosch fuel reg, coil, leads and dizzy cap only a few thousand miles ago, plus new heater matrix and Bosch battery.
The only reason I sold the car in the first place was it had sat in my garage for about 18months after failing its MOT on a faulty brake compensator valve. I wanted to fit the new automec kit and hoses and return the engine to original spec. Unfortunately I never seemed to get the time to do the work and eventually ended up spending the cash I had put aside on other things so reluctantly decided to sell to Liam.
I bought the car back in 2004 from a member of the original Campaign Register (Rob I think his name was), who lived around the Worcester area. I think it had been in his family for a few years. The car has a lot of original paperwork including most of the tax disks and MOT's back to when it was new.
I'll try and dig out some photos of the car from when I had it and post a link here.
Its a very good original example of a Campaign and the price he is asking is very fair imho.
[edit]
Here are a couple of photos from when I had the car - I'll add more if I find them:
http://picasaweb.googl…paign?authkey=Nx2_Y8wvLMI
[/edit]
Cheers,
Chris
Apologies I don't get on here very much at all anymore, so only just seen this as someone PM-ed me about it. Just to confirm this was my Lhasa green Campaign, and it is a very original car with lots of history in very good condition.
I can also vouch for Liam (finchyboy), as being a straight up guy to deal with. The interior, especially the seats, parcel shelf and door cards are all in fantastic condition. They came from a lhasa green Mk1 that had been written off with only 60K miles on the clock. The wheel I had on it was an original Campaign one with a professional retrim by none other than our own Crazyquiff.
I sold the car with a full automec copper brake pipe kit and braided flexi hoses which I believe Liam has fitted along with upgraded master cylinder and new brake compensator valve. The grill has the original Campaign fogs, and the P-slots are also genuine Campaign items. It also had a brand new Bosch fuel reg, coil, leads and dizzy cap only a few thousand miles ago, plus new heater matrix and Bosch battery.
The only reason I sold the car in the first place was it had sat in my garage for about 18months after failing its MOT on a faulty brake compensator valve. I wanted to fit the new automec kit and hoses and return the engine to original spec. Unfortunately I never seemed to get the time to do the work and eventually ended up spending the cash I had put aside on other things so reluctantly decided to sell to Liam.
I bought the car back in 2004 from a member of the original Campaign Register (Rob I think his name was), who lived around the Worcester area. I think it had been in his family for a few years. The car has a lot of original paperwork including most of the tax disks and MOT's back to when it was new.
I'll try and dig out some photos of the car from when I had it and post a link here.
Its a very good original example of a Campaign and the price he is asking is very fair imho.
[edit]
Here are a couple of photos from when I had the car - I'll add more if I find them:
http://picasaweb.googl…paign?authkey=Nx2_Y8wvLMI
[/edit]
Cheers,
Chris
Post #1018424 by dutchboy on 24 February 2010, 9:09 PM (in topic “Brake compensator valve”)
Posted
Settled In
Brake compensator valve
As some of you may or may not know I'm building my mk1 golf completly from scratch.
So…. Do I need a compensator valve for the rear brakes? I'm running MK3 Drums and a Corrado set up at the front. MK2 GTi servo with a passat 4 branch cylinder
I was hoping to get rid of it to be honest and if I need to use some in line bias adjusters.
Also do I need the regulators in the pipework near the master cylinder?
Cheers
So…. Do I need a compensator valve for the rear brakes? I'm running MK3 Drums and a Corrado set up at the front. MK2 GTi servo with a passat 4 branch cylinder
I was hoping to get rid of it to be honest and if I need to use some in line bias adjusters.
Also do I need the regulators in the pipework near the master cylinder?
Cheers
Post #1072699 by 79-85 on 09 October 2010, 7:00 PM (in topic “82 GTI LHASA GREEN TIN TOP, to be something mad!!”)
Posted
Settled In
82 GTI LHASA GREEN TIN TOP, to be something mad!!:
fitted the compensator valve today, and plumbed in the brake lines. re-fitted the fuel lines, pump and accumulator.
compensator valve..
need a new one of these before i can get any fuel in..
and it was too dark to get any pics of the fuel pump..
pump..
accumulator..
getting there :wink:
compensator valve..
need a new one of these before i can get any fuel in..
and it was too dark to get any pics of the fuel pump..
pump..
accumulator..
getting there :wink:
Post #1489802 by Brynboru on 13 June 2015, 7:16 PM (in topic “Difficulty using a posted link”)
Posted
Settled In
Difficulty using a posted link
When I click on a link quoted in a post, (e.g. in post #1237445 http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=80653&highlight=compensator+valve ), I find this takes me to the site's Home front page and not the subject I'm looking for. Apologies if I'm missing something obvious, but I have found this happening frequently when I am doing a search. Is the reason something to do with the post having been deleted or similar? Your advice will be much appreciated, as I'm not expert enough at solving these kind of navigation problems.
Post #1663308 by Gilbertdfx on 11 October 2022, 8:09 PM (in topic “Brake compensator valve”)
Posted
Settling In
Brake compensator valve
Does anyone know of any alternative options to the rear compensator valve fitted to a mk1 gti?
either if any others fit or if there are rebuild kits?
Mine is seized solid and the only one I can find is one on eBay in worse condition than mine.
Thought I had found some on auto doc but then realised they were out of stock. 🙄
would really appreciate any advice.
either if any others fit or if there are rebuild kits?
Mine is seized solid and the only one I can find is one on eBay in worse condition than mine.
Thought I had found some on auto doc but then realised they were out of stock. 🙄
would really appreciate any advice.