Heated washer jet - Wiring Diagram

dont worry about wire gauge to the switch, the SU feed is just a trigger wire to fire the hood relays, it doesn't have any load. the load comes via the fat red wire with inline fuse to P

though you haven't mistaken the main live for the switch SU feed have you?

aye you need ignition for the VDOs, but if you want thaem to be live factory they're tapped into A/25

rubjonny said

dont worry about wire gauge to the switch, the SU feed is just a trigger wire to fire the hood relays, it doesn't have any load. the load comes via the fat red wire with inline fuse to P

though you haven't mistaken the main live for the switch SU feed have you?

aye you need ignition for the VDOs, but if you want thaem to be live factory they're tapped into A/25

Brilliant. I don't think I have mistaken anything, but I'll get some pictures for you to double check! I traced all wires for continuity (but that doesn't mean they are spliced within the loom somewhere).

VDO's will be easy then! I can save that for a later date.

the fat red power should go straight to the rear of the car and hook up to the control relays

Ok, update!

Firstly the ignition switch - It wasn't faulty, you can see why it wasn't working with ignition live though:

Old one:
Rivage Wiring (8) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

New one:
Rivage Wiring (7) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

It was missing the pin to the SU feed. It wasn't damaged, more than likely replaced with the wrong type at some point as it wasn't an original part. As soon as I replaced the switch the SU feed worked with the key in - as in the feed worked the second you put the key in. The feed went off the second the key was removed…

Here are the cables which were cut and left bundled in the bulkhead, found behind the headunit area:
Rivage Wiring (6) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

And here is the headunit plug - You can see this is genuine VW but judging by the colours, not original to this car. Note - Only the Red (live) and Borwn (earth) were connected, the rest were cut:
Rivage Wiring (9) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

The hood switch plug - Note the red cable which went back to a aftermarket spade terminal:
Rivage Wiring (5) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr
Rivage Wiring (1) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr
Rivage Wiring (2) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

Hope this helps!?

aha! so sequence must have been, ignition switch fail. incorrect new switch bought, hood & stereo fail. Oh no! wiring chump then gets stressed, hacks loom about till its fixed

with the missing pin its not uncommon to see this, even on genuine units. our MK2f polo was the same, so of course I had to change the switch to make the stereo work as it should…

but my 89 mk2 driver had the pin on the switch, just no wire to it

rubjonny said

aha! so sequence must have been, ignition switch fail. incorrect new switch bought, hood & stereo fail. Oh no! wiring chump then gets stressed, hacks loom about till its fixed

with the missing pin its not uncommon to see this, even on genuine units. our MK2f polo was the same, so of course I had to change the switch to make the stereo work as it should…

but my 89 mk2 driver had the pin on the switch, just no wire to it

Sounds about right!

So going back to the red cable on the hood switch plug.. Does this definitely get spliced into the Brown/red SU key live?

Also, the heated washer jets - How do I test these are actually working (I ended up stripped the two I have down as both the live pins were rotten - so made 1 good unit out of 2).

yes the red wants to go to the SU feed, there was probably a spade connector on it originally but this has since gone missing

with the jets i guess you can do a resistance check for starters, plus afaik they will get noticeably hot to the touch? mine havent been wired in since i bought the car in 2005…

rubjonny said

yes the red wants to go to the SU feed, there was probably a spade connector on it originally but this has since gone missing

with the jets i guess you can do a resistance check for starters, plus afaik they will get noticeably hot to the touch? mine havent been wired in since i bought the car in 2005…

All I can think is the red wire went back to near the head unit at some point as the SU wire has no other breaks in it. Should be simple enough to add a splice to it.

Well, I tried testing the continuity of the the jets, but it didn't work. The positive feed has a small disc which I believe sits between the wire and the jet block - this disc doesn't appear to be conductive. Any thoughts?

Edit: It's kinda explained here, someone asks the same question on the last post.. http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-heated-washer-jets.108382/

good question! now you mention it all coming back to me when i had a go at the same job, though mine all fell to bits and in the end i put some mk3 golf ones on and hoped for the best

if the wiring is all good and nozzle is clean then they should work as they should, regarding the disc your guess is as good as mine!

Bit of an update.

Wiring is sorted and dash is back on. The roof only works with the key in, ignition on and off! Yippie!

The windows are the same, but I noticed they work with the key out for a few minutes - I presume this is a standard feature so you can close the windows after switching the car off?

The heated washer jet appears to be working too. I had x2 jets from a Corrado which both turned out to be dead. The positive terminal had corroded on both and one of the metal inserts had broken:
Heated Washer Jets (2) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr

So I made x1 good one out of both. I used the old negative terminal and soldered onto the positive side. Removed the good jet, cleaned it all up and put it back together. I never quite figured out the little disc - I put it back where it was and left it: I assume it does something to help heat it up when it's cold enough - Maybe a thermal diode of some sort? Who knows! All I know is that it get's warm(ish) to the touch. Job done!

Back together:
Heated Washer Jets (1) by Rich Perkins, on Flickr


Thank you for your help rubjonny - Would have really struggled without you!

yeah with the 1 touch system the windows will work for a bit after ignition is switched off to allow you to close the windows if you forget, it also switches on if you open the doors. though in both cases the 1 touch close feature is disabled

Hello rubjonny

Bit of an update - I've now got the car fully together and I'd just tested the roof with the tonneau cover in place with the flaps clipped in (which should disable the roof) and the roof still opens.

What should I be checking?  

check the switches for the cover either side, F155 and F156 in the g1powerhood.pdf

rubjonny said

check the switches for the cover either side, F155 and F156 in the g1powerhood.pdf

They are just earthed cables aren't they? Purple I think. I'll take a look.

yus they are earth switches, not sure if they should earth with hood cover off and go open when removed or the other way round, the relay logic on the diagram isnt clear