Anyone replaced HAZARD switch and LIGHT switch with TOGGLES?

Just seeing if anyone has replaced their switches with toggle switches?

I'm making a custom dash and would rather lose the square switches.  If anyone has done this and knows the wiring please let me know.

Thanks!

with the light switch i would also fit a relayed lighting loom, that way you wont have all the current for the lights going thru the switch. this means the switch can be a lower spec, plus it'll really help with the light output.

do you care about the dash light dimmer function?

rubjonny said

with the light switch i would also fit a relayed lighting loom, that way you wont have all the current for the lights going thru the switch. this means the switch can be a lower spec, plus it'll really help with the light output.

do you care about the dash light dimmer function?

Hi
Thanks for the reply.  I am not fussed about the dimmer function.

Is there a tidy way of using the existing fuseboard to fit relayed headlights?

better to fit the relays in the engine bay, to keep the wiring between relay and headlight as short as possible

what fusebox do you have, the early glass type or later blade?

rubjonny said

better to fit the relays in the engine bay, to keep the wiring between relay and headlight as short as possible

what fusebox do you have, the early glass type or later blade?

I have a blade type box

Thanks.

right! headlight switch:
X - ignition live
30 - permanent live
31 - earth (might be direct to the switch light bulb)
56 - output to flasher/beam select switch
58 - output to fog light(s) & plate lights
58B - dash lighting
58L - output to left side/rear lights
58R - output to right side/rear lights

hazard switch:
15 - ignition live
30 - permanent live
49 - hazard relay power trigger feed
49a - hazard relay power output feed
L - to left indicators
R - to right indicators
58B - switch light
31 - earth

to make the hazard switch a seperate toggle, you need one which has 2 seperate channels thru it (otherwsie triggereing indicators on 1 side will bring them both on) then:
join 15 to 49
put 49a to the input of the switch on both sides, and the output legs to L and R seperately.

note that this will mean that the hazards will only work with the ignition! unless you get a 3 way switch, the 3rch channel having 30 to the input and the output joined to 49.

I hope all of that helps!

Wow, that is great!

Thank you very much for the help.

I will give that a go shortly.

Thanks again.

you could use a 2 way switch and join 30 to 49 instead of 15, but this would mean the indicators work without the ignition on. this would also stop the parking lights working right if you care.

edit: well, actually the parking lights would work fine, just the indicators would be on as well

Sure, I'll try it both ways, see which works best for me.

Thanks.

Hey,

Just ordering some stuff up for this, I'm not great with electrics, could you tell me if:
http://www.iem-services.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=957

Would work as the headlight replacement?

Thanks!!

yeah that should work same way factory headlight switch works, just need to wire in another toggle switch for dip/main unless you're keeping the factory stalks?

I would make a relayed lighting loom as well, that way you get the best light output and extend the life of the headlight switch

Hey, quick reply thanks!

Yes I'll be keeping the main beam stalk.

And yes I was going to order so wire to make them relay'd from inside the cab.

Cheers!

Struggling to find a switch for hazard however,  How do I know if it has 2 channels running through it?

Thanks for the help Jonny

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/switches/modular.php

proper hazard in there so i assume that'll be what you need?

basically you need an on/off switch with 2 separate channels thru it, so putting live to either of the pins wont bring the other pin live. this is because the vag hazard switch is joined to the indicator wires, if you only had a single channel switch indicating one way or the other would allow the live to jump to the other side thus bringing all the indicators on together.

does that make sense?  you might be able to get diodes though which act like a 1 way valve, that could solve your problem but they would need to be man enough to take the power.  I'm not really a classically trained electrician so my theory might be sketchy on that one!