Skip navigation

VW GOLF MK1 BLACK SOY CAB (92) GTI

Post

Back to the top

VW GOLF MK1 BLACK SOY CAB (92) GTI

Thanks Carbs..

So with lots of cleaning up of parts, its slow progress at moment….

I needed to find out some details on injector inserts as 2 from the head where broken, so needed to replace them. So I thought I would look through my books this evening to find details on injector inserts that fit into the 8v head.

My collection of VW books!!




No details in them just one picture :( Even been on vagcat.com and still can't find details on this….

Might just have to call VW tomorrow instead and ask them  :banghead:

Anyone else know where to look?

thanks Si

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
034 133 555 A I think will be the part number for the upper insert. Its for chassis numbers after F 15-F-000 001>>

There is also a lower part which has the part number 035 133 554

Check out prowlers pdf…http://www.vwgolfmk1.co.uk/Main/Testinjectors.pdf
His GTI cabrio is earlier than your's so I'm not sure if brass inserts are the early type. He does have the air shroud hat thing on the injectors though.

I've not had my inserts out myself, I got the part numbers from ETOS and I think they are right :scratch: bit difficult to figure out.

Hope this helps :wink:

Post

Back to the top

Ross said

034 133 555 A I think will be the part number for the upper insert. Its for chassis numbers after F 15-F-000 001>>

There is also a lower part which has the part number 035 133 554

Check out prowlers pdf…http://www.vwgolfmk1.co.uk/Main/Testinjectors.pdf
His GTI cabrio is earlier than your's so I'm not sure if brass inserts are the early type. He does have the air shroud hat thing on the injectors though.

I've not had my inserts out myself, I got the part numbers from ETOS and I think they are right :scratch: bit difficult to figure out.

Hope this helps :wink:

Hi Ross, that the ones I've got covered in prowlers PDF, thanks for that info, will do a bit of searching on net for more info now and will try VW tomorrow as well.

I did find this link also just now, shows the old style injector inserts - useful for me as well as going to complete rebuild of my old skool engine 83 soon as well.

http://not2fast.wryday.com/VAG/InjectorCup.html

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
So today I had to clear out the garage due to family member moving house. Being the nice person I am, I am storing some crap for them, so not alot of work today on the engine, just clean up of Throttle body..

Alot of crap outside as well as inside the throttle body


Look at the crap inside?!


Clean up a little before strip down.


Then strip down time


A lot of cleaning up and some paint


Will be rebuilding throttle body tomorrow, so another item completed.

Will be picking up the head on monday as well  :D Bottom end is stripped down now and will be painted later this week, the bores had hardly any wear on them, so just new piston rings, big end bearings and all new gaskets, more on that later.


So here is the injector inserts that where broken, I only required lower parts of all the inserts in the end, so ordered these from VW, only few pounds each, picking them up as well on monday with a few other bits.


Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
So picked up new Injector inserts - I ordered top and bottom ones in the end as they were not that much anyhow.





I replaced the cam oil seal





Old and new cam oil seal



I also made a thread cleaning tool for the injector inserts from one of my old top injector inserts - works a treat..



A few parts painted and ready :)



A few more bits in the box as well :)



The Head is all ready now… will start put parts back together tomorrow







Also throttle body is now all rebuild and ready to go back on the inlet manifold



More soon

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
So lots of work on the bottom end - 1.8 DX Engine rebuild… I'm waiting on the piston rings to turn up, but this little gasket kit is wanting to be installed…



So I stripped the bottom end down a while ago and took pictures so here is the progress…

Engine in garage… (you can see downpipe as well, thats up for sale!)


So time to get it on the bench and start taking off the flywheel. You can undo the flywheel by using 9mm socket in racket (there are a few bolts to undo!!) Clamp the flywheel to prevent it from turning and start releasing each bolt half a turn at a time until all are slack, then take all of them out.

NOTE: When you pull the flywheel off, the friction disc will come away as well, so be careful - see picture below. You now need to with a screw driver release the release plate ring, which the release plate will more than likely fail out.



Flywheel off, release plate off too :)



Now need to take off the pressure plate, which is held to the crankshaft flange by six blots (see picture above) These bolts are fitted using a thread locking compound, so these will be difficult to remove as they were tightened to a high torque. Now to properly take the bolts
off you need a clamp to hold the pressure plate in place, I made one using a spanner, or you can put a 19mm spanner on the other end of the crankshaft pulley and then undo the bolts.
Now have pressure plate off (as below)



Now need to take the gearbox plate off, by un-bolting the 3 bolts. You can now unscrew the bolts holding the end crankshaft oil seal plate in place. NOTE: There are two bolts also from the bottom of the seal plate to remove. I used a small screw drive to lever off the seal plate once all bolts are removed. I then took off the green gasket from production :) I took this off carefully as it was in excellent condition.





Now time to strip the timing belt end :)



As seen in the above picture, I removed the inner timing belt cover and I then removed the front pulley with 19mm socket, I used a large screw driver inbetween the pully against the block to lock the pulley while I unscrew the bolt. Now can undo the 2 x 13mm bolts and pull
the intermediate shaft out.(see picture below of shaft - sorry its the only picture I have of the shaft out)



Now time to take the sump off the block. Do this by unbolting the mainly 10mm bolts. Remove the sump off (see below picture)



Now see the bottom end of the engine (see below picture) again you will see the sump gasket, again my is green from production and in great condition. I carefully took this off.





I now need to take the nut holding the timing belt drive pulley off. This is a real (****) to get off, I mean a real so and so to shift. I put a block of wood between the crank and block and using a very long lever…. the bolt will undo in the end!!!



I can now unscrew the bolts holding the oil seal plate in place. most of them are 10mm, but one is 13mm/16mm.

I now removed the dipstick outer shaft with a bolt and hammer it out.

I then removed the oil pump, this can be done by using 13mm socket, to remove 2 bolts. The oil bump will now slide straight out. Have a look in the oil pump pickup for debris (I had alot of crap in mine)

So its time to remove the pistons.

NOTE: Please take care here as you need to know exactly which piston goes into which bore and which way, so its best to remove each piston at a time, take you time doing this.

1. You need to Undo the big end rods using a 14mm socket.
2. To remove the end caps, you need to loose them by tap them using a rubber/nylon mallet on the rod bolts.
3. Now use the hammer to tap each piston out of the bores.
4. Now put the cap back on the mating conrod making sure that the aligning marks line up. It is absolutely essential that each cap fits the correct conrol and is fitted the right way around. then put the nuts back on as well.
5. Repeat 1-4 for each piston. I put each piston on the bench and marked them each to know

which one goes into which bore.





Pistons out of block…


So time to remove the main bearing caps to remove the crank.

1. Undo the bearing cap bolts using a mm socket and racket. These will be tight. The cap itself will also do its best to stay put.

Here is a hint for you , place two of the bolts back in to the top of the cap and use tme to lever the cap while you tap it with a hammer,
working it to and fro, until you can lift it away from the block.

2. Repeat for each bearing cap.

Note: The middle/centre main bearing cap has thrust washers on each side of it. On some models like mine the thrust washers are an integral part of the shell itself and you won't see separate thrust washers.





All the internals of the block on the floor (I used some spare old clothes I found in the garage to put them on, the other half's I think!! hehehe)



I checked the bores for wear and there was no wear but then again with only 68k on the engine I'm not surprised.

So with the head now stripped down, its time to give it a clean inside and out. Here is the tools I used. What I didn't take picture of my Clarke large floor standing Parts Washer, made life alot easier for me, plus also used the compressor to blow out off water from head. :)



I did a bit of research on what options to clean and spray engine parts, here is the options

I listed.

Option1
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint direct using Hammerite smooth (colours as you require?!)

Option2
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint/Spray on POR15 Metal Ready
3. Paint on POR15
4. Paint on enamel top coat (colours as you require?!)

Option3
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint/Brush on Zinga
3. Paint on Etch Primer
4. Paint on undercoat
5. Paint on enamel Top coat (colours as you require?!)

Option4
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using Wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Leave the parts as natural look for!!!!!!! hehe

Useful sites I found:

http://www.hammerite.com/
http://www.por15.com
http://www.zinga.co.uk
http://www.frost.co.uk (useful site)
http://www.enginewise.co.uk - did not response to phone call or emails
http://www.rustguardian.co.uk
http://www.rust.co.uk


For this engine rebuild, I have gone for option 2, but I am also doing option3 on another complete engine next month (April07)

So with alot of cleaning this is how the block turned out.







I then sprayed the whole block in metal ready.


I then prepared the block ready for POR15 paint.



And with POR15 painted on - the end result



I will get more pictures up once all is dry

Here is picture of the engine bay now…


I will start cleaning up the bay later, I'm going to respray the bay area so its nice and fresh.

Here is one picture with bottom end dry with head on it - its all coming together now?!


Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
great work! nice to see the whole process!

Post

Back to the top
thanks carbs, the fun really starts tonight when I start putting everything back together, step by step instructions will be coming up in next update, might even put it into a PDF for everyone.

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
You're really going to town! Good work…

Megasquirted 1981 Silver 1600 GTI Daily Driver

Still Restoring...

Post

Back to the top
So I forgot about a few bits I was meant to get ready to go to the powder coaters, so I had to give a few items a quick clean tonight.





I also ordered the following items today as well  :D

1. Audi, VW Lower Timing Belt Cover
2. VW Oil Pan German 5 Quart New A1 (this is for my other engine)
3. VW Oil Pan Baffle & Windage Tray OEM New A1
4. Seal ring, lower fuel injector holder. 16.5 x 19.5 x 1.5mm
5. CIS Rubber (goes into Battery tray)
6. VW CLUTCH BOLT KIT Flywheel & Pressure Plate
7. Head Bolts
8. DIP Stick Top
9. Coolant hose - From pump to flange on head
10. Coolant hose - From radiator to expansion tank, cloth covered rubber hose. two new hose clamps shown below, the original clamps are not re-useable
10a Hose clamp, 13-14mm size range
11. Timing belt
12. Fan belt
13. Oil filter
14. Oil 10/40
15. 020 Clutch Alignment Tool

I also cleared the work bench of all un-wanted items, so I can start rebuilding the head and bottom end this week, I really wanted to start tonight, but I want to be able to take notes and pictures of each stage, as I'm going to be doing it all again next month on another engine :)

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
Had fun just before the weekend, I had a slight accident with a grinder and my arm, which took off a few layers of skin, very lucky person to be honest, quick check up and a few metal bits taken out of my arm and back to the job at hand…..

So over the weekend I finish off the gearbox painting…

I took my spray guns into action



and here is the results… all the little parts are back on the gearbox now as well as the Starter motor!



I picked up a few parts from the power coaters today, pickup the rest tomorrow… one pic to see the results… - very happy  :cool:



Few other parts which where painted over the weekend



Now the close up of the Throttle body completed :)







and I painted my new water bottle cap - that OEM look - BLACK!!!



My next update will be the stage by stage update of putting the engine back together and all together before I put back into the engine bay… its coming along nicely now

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
It was like Christmas today - parts from powder coaters turned up :)

All wrapped ready for me to be like a kid again on christmas morning?!!!


The end result - the finish on every thing is A1.


Even got clips painted as well…. (two in pic where new clips - silver ones)



Well I've got everything back now… except this….. hopefully will be here by weekend, so I can complete the engine build….


Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
Looks good. how much did all the powder coating come to and where are you getting the windage tray from? I knoe g-werks do them for ?30. Are you fitting a baffled sump? Going to knock up your own?

http://www.clubgti.co.…m/showthread.php?t=119894

Megasquirted 1981 Silver 1600 GTI Daily Driver

Still Restoring...

Post

Back to the top

woZa said

Looks good. how much did all the powder coating come to and where are you getting the windage tray from? I knoe g-werks do them for ?30. Are you fitting a baffled sump? Going to knock up your own?

http://www.clubgti.co.…m/showthread.php?t=119894

thanks, the powder coating was not alot of money as I had alot of stuff done as once which helps - 45.00 it all it cost me. The Windage tray I ordered from US, well got it for free to be honest as I ordered some other parts as well  :D Good to know locally they do them, but I ordered mine in several weeks ago with other parts which just works out alot cheaper when you get free transport costs as well hehehe

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
Excellent work mate.

How did you get the underneath of your cab so clean (before applying the underseal)?

Thanks for the tech tips and guides- very useful.

Many reminders of my own situation. You even have the same white and blue towel as me!

As with Carbs4ever's resto, I'll be looking forward to more updates.

D

Current MK1 rebuild elapsed time - 15 years and counting…
Is it normal to clean and paint bits of your car that will never be seen?
Not-so-new addition - 1996 MK1 Citi Golf (off the road for 4 years… and counting)

Post

Back to the top

DAG4R said

Excellent work mate.

How did you get the underneath of your cab so clean (before applying the underseal)?

Thanks for the tech tips and guides- very useful.

Many reminders of my own situation. You even have the same white and blue towel as me!

As with Carbs4ever's resto, I'll be looking forward to more updates.

D

thanks, regarding the underneath, I presume you mean the engine parts? Either way, I used wire wheel in power drill or grinder to clear off any un-wanted crap or grease, rust, etc. I then used a smaller wirewheel to really polish up the parts and then if I wanted a really smooth finish I would use wet and dry paper, before I put underseal on or metal ready….

There are many ways of cleaning parts, everyone has there own way..

Here is a little update… (I'm in the middle of writing up the step by step rebuild doc at the moment, its taking a tad longer than I thought, but it will be useful for all..

Engine built - 90%


Inlet Manifold




Rad

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
as new! love it! more updates! 8)

Post

Back to the top

Carbs4ever said

as new! love it! more updates! 8)

Where are your updates Carbs4ever? Still waiting for the next installement.

I won't be too pushy as I haven't put my resto up here yet…  :wink:

Current MK1 rebuild elapsed time - 15 years and counting…
Is it normal to clean and paint bits of your car that will never be seen?
Not-so-new addition - 1996 MK1 Citi Golf (off the road for 4 years… and counting)

Post

Back to the top
An update at last!!!

Due to the engine is now all together and sitting in the garage waiting for the engine bay to be ready, I thought I'd better get working on some engine bay parts and then on the engine bay.

So here is pic of the engine bay before I started stipping it down and working on it… (notice all cables in black bags - to keep the wet weather away as I left the car like this for a few weeks and guest what - it rained loads in Feb07, so I'm glad I did it..



I then stripped as much as I could, out of the engine bay. I tired pulling the loom back into the car, but had a lot of issues due to lack of space so I pulled this all into the middle of the engine bay into a new black bag for the moment.

So with all the bits off, I started on the strip down of the brake arm as this needed some love and attention..





After a few hours!! of cleaning off the grease and crap, I then added some undercoat and then a few top coats and here are the results… (I went for the natural look as you don't really get to see most of this once the engine is back in.)












I then started on a few other parts that needed cleaning up and painting. still need to get final coats on these items…. black of course!!



So after a long weekend, I managed to rub down the whole engine bay area. I had to grind down some parts back to metal due to some welding was required and rust. All I can say is after doing the welding and then
cleaning up (very time consuming I can tell you and a few cuts on the hands and arms) I sprayed the engine bay in Red primer, it went on so
lovely and covered everywhere…. even a few rubber parts I forgot to pull off and cover up…  :banghead:  never mind a little bit of after cleaning up to do later, to make it look OEM…. nothing that can't be fixed.

I didn't paint the lower parts of the engine bay as this will have black smooth hammerite put on. To be honest it won't even be seen once the engine is in place and plus hammerite is better for lower parts due to all
the weather conditions hitting those parts every day.



and a evening shoot showing the engine bay through the front panel!!!



Well that's it for the moment, more updates next month. Now do I go with Red or Black in colour for the engine bay????????!!!!!! hehehe you will have to wait and see.

I've not forgotten about the engine rebuild write up either, nearly there with that 90% done, just making sure I have all details and links in the document so its relevant to all mk1 1.6 1.8 owners :)

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 

Post

Back to the top
A little update… some more parts arrived while I was away (pictures being taken by old man - thanks)



I'll be back on 20th May so can then focus on getting the engine bay finished painting and then drop the engine back in (its all together now, will show pictures once have engine installed (as usual will be staged pictures how to install engine)

Madone with the two Cabs 82 (UK RHD) and 85 (US LHD) (92 sold)

 
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.