2.0L 16V CONVERSION(FUEL LINES)

CAN ANYONE WHO HAS DONE THIS CONVERSION SUGGEST THE EASIEST WAY TO TAKE THE FUEL LINES THAT CURRENTLY SIT IN THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE ENGINE BAY TO WHERE THEYRE GONNA NEED TO BE OVER ON THE LEFT.HOW HAVE YOU GUYS DONE IT?CHEERS.

Crazyquiff does full fuel lines in braided that are designed for the 16V swap. Look him up on the forum

Cheers,

Mark

This is what I wrote in my 16V FAQ:

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The fuel lines that come from the back of the car originally come into engine bay at bottom left rear, along back and then forward along chassis leg to air box at front right.  Bear in mind they are hard, stiff and can crack easily, for this reason bending is not ideal and should be approached with caution, replacement of sections with the appropriate flexible pipe may be required.

For the 16V (unless Scirocco Inlet Manifold, not covered here) they need to go to left hand front of engine bay. Sort this out whilst the engine is out of the car. There are various options:

-Bend Solid Lines VERY carefully.  Across to desired position on left.  They will be slightly too long and in an awkward position.
-Cut Solids at entrance to engine bay (Or wherever convenient in engine bay) run fuel pipe up to top front left where Metering head will be.
-Run new solid lines from fuel pump at rear to desired position.
-Run new braided rubber lines from fuel pump at rear to desired position. Not ideal having flexible hose under car.

-Any fuel hose used must be High Pressure Injection rated Fuel Hose.  ?Lengths? of Hose can be ordered but it is also possible to order custom sections of hose with proper fittings to connect to the solid lines or existing banjo fittings.
-The location of the fuel filter must be considered in this, it can be fitted in the std position on the mk1 air box, but this leaves it against the front slam panel.  For safety consider relocating to somewhere further back, i.e. on suspension turret or behind airbox.

In my case I temp bodged it by bending lines across, then cutting and shortening, using sections of high pressure fuel rubber pipe with appropriate clamps. This is not ideal but works fine.  

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btw, Rich (CrazyQuiff) measured the lengths for his 16V lines off my car, so should be  :y:..

Another job for me to sort out at some point, need to relocate fuel filter and change the lines

THANKS GUYS,REALLY APPRECIATED!!!! I THINK I WILL CONTACT CRAZYQUIFF TO GET SOME OF HIS FUEL LINES THEN TAKE IT FROM THERE,WHEN I CAN SEE WHAT I GOT TO WORK WITH.IS THERE SUCH A THING AS A 90 DEGREE ELBOW TYPE CONNECTOR AVAILABLE TO TRY AND AVOID TOO MUCH BENDING?THANKS AGAIN,THIS IS THE ONLY THING PREVENTING ME FROM DROPPING THE NEW ENGINE INTO PLACE APART FROM A BATTERED STEERING RACK BOOT AND A DAMN GOOD CLEAN UP. :wink:

you wont need to bend the lines if youre plannign on buying braided lines.

You cut the solid lines at the right point , I forget where Richs go to…its def on the floor pan somewhere, so before they come into bay.   Then run the braided lines where you want, they're flexible, braided high pressure rubber so you won't need any connectors.

Personally i'd gently bend it over to the other side so you can get on with teh other jobs  8)

BRAIDED OPTION SOUNDS EASIER BUT EXPENSIVE I WILL HAVE A LOOK TO SEE HOW EASY THEY BEND,RECALL SEEING A COILED SPRING USED TO BEND COPPER PIPE MIGHT TRY AND GET HOLD OF ONE OF THOSE TO TRY AND PREVENT KINKING IT.CHEERS.

Coiled springs are used internally to bend pipes, so no use for these.

I think you'd be suprised, braided lines shouldnt be too much.

I didnt quite tell teh truth with mine, I did bend them most of the way, but they are still way too long so I cut sections out of them and used short sections of high pressure fuel hose to link them.

lots of options mentioned.

personally,  I would cut out original fuel lines and replace them with new.

run flexy fuel line from pump and tank along side each other as one said along the original route to drivers feet of engine bay then plub around to behind drivers head lamp.

your mk1 is quite old now so you would be better of renewing whole to avoid problems later.

just a thought

cheers
Paul

I AM REPLACING THE OLD FUEL LINES WITH BRAIDED ITEMS FROM CRAZYQUIFF(TOP BLOKE).HAD FUN REMOVING THE OLD ONES.THANKS FOR YOUR SUGGESTIONS AND HELP EVERYONE.BEN.

i'm doin a kr conversion those fuel lines look nice btw little bit expensive tho imo.

My flexi lines run from the rear all the way to the short tails at the metering head.

They are made from high quality stainless braid with hose suitable for unleaded petrol.  Cheaper standard hose deteriorates with unleaded causing balling inside the pipe and eventually leaks.  The flexi hose is terminated with the correct fittings to fix directly to the exiting or new 16v system.

Cheers

Rich

Thats fair enough as far as i know your the only person who sells a kit that "terminates with the correct fittings to fix directly to the exiting or new 16v system."  which makes life a lot easier

crazyquiff said

My flexi lines run from the rear all the way to the short tails at the metering head.

They are made from high quality stainless braid with hose suitable for unleaded petrol.  Cheaper standard hose deteriorates with unleaded causing balling inside the pipe and eventually leaks.  The flexi hose is terminated with the correct fittings to fix directly to the exiting or new 16v system.

Cheers

Rich

How much are theese mate?

Check out my website at www.golfmk1.co.uk

The 16v pipes are ?43 each for the supply and return

Cheers

Rich

AS THE MAN SAYS,THEY ARE TOP QUALITY ITEMS!I AGREE THEY ARE EXPENSIVE BUT SO IS EVERYTHING ELSE I HAVE BOUGHT FOR MY CONVERSION AND I THINK THESE ARE A BIG HELP AND DEFINITELY WORTH HAVING,YOU WILL SEE WHY WHEN YOU COME TO DOING YOURS,THEY MAKE LIFE A LOT EASIER.GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CONVERSION DUDE.THANKS FOR THE QUICK POSTAGE ON THE ACCUMULATOR FLEXI RICH,APPRECIATE IT.IF MY FRONT MOUNT TURNS UP TOMORROW I CAN FINNALLY DROP THE BEAST IN THE BAY!!! :mrgreen:

Thanks for the comments    glad to be of service.

Be good to see some pics  8)

good luck with dropping it in mate
 


one day i'll get round to actually changing my lines, lol.  That time maybe soon as its going into the body shop to sort once I get a decent quote and all that.

THE ENGINE IS IN :mrgreen: .NOT  RUNNING YET BUT THE ENGINE IS IN ALONG WITH THE MANIFOLD AND I HAVE MANAGED TO RECONNECT MY STEERING RACK AFTER CHANGING THE BOOT WHICH WAS FAR FROM EASY BECAUSE THE SPLINES WERE A BIT KNACKERED. SO IM HAPPY FOR NOW.COUPLE OF QUESTIONS FOR YOU GUYS.CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT GEARBOX OIL I SHOULD USE FOR THE 020 8 VALVE BOX AND EXACTLY HOW MUCH TO PUT IN.CAN I PUT IT STRAIGHT IN THROUGH THE HOLE FOR THE SPEEDO CABLE?A QUESTION FOR CRAZYQUIFF IF HE READS THIS.ONLY HAD A BRIEF LOOK AT THIS BUT I THINK IN ORDER TO ACCOMODATE A FUEL FILTER I WILL NEED AN EXTRA FUEL FITTING OF SOME DESCRIPTION AS FROM WHAT I COULD MAKE OUT THE FLEXI LINES PLUGS STRAIGHT INTO THE TAILS OF THE 16V METERING HEAD THEREFORE ELIMINATING THE OPTION OF A FILTER.IS THIS CORRECT OR AM I MISSING AN OBVIOUS SOLUTION?AS I SAID I'VE ONLY LOOKED BRIEFLY AT IT FOR NOW.ALSO IS THERE ANY CHANCE OF GETTING THAT FAQ FOR THE 2.0L CONVERSION I HEAR YOU TALK OF MANIC GTI?COULD BE HANDY WHEN I REACH THE WIRING STAGE THIS WEEKEND.CHEERS GUYS!

The fuel lines are designed to connect to the short flexi which goes to the filter on the metering head.  Using the original filter for the 16v and the original connectors no additional filter is required.

Cheers

Rich

THANKS RICH.I DONT HAVE ANY FLEXIS ON THE 16V METERING HEAD IVE GOT JUST STANDARD PIPE(SUPPLY AND RETURN) :dontknow: .I WAS TOLD THE  FILTER ON 16VALVES WAS LOCATED SOMEWHERE BY THE FUEL PUMP.THINK I CAN USE A TAIL OFF THE 8VALVE BUT WILL REQUIRE ANOTHER CONNECTOR.DO METERING HEADS VARY IN DESIGN ACCORDING TO AGE THEN?CHEERS.TRY AND GET PHOTOS TO YOU WHEN I CAN BUT SHES NO SHOW WINNER MIND :mrgreen: