Big Probs and Outta Ideas :o(

Right here goes:

Basically my car is hesitant upon start up for about 2-3 minutes whilst its cold, after its warmed up a bit its generally ok, until you get past 3750 revs, when it starts to stutter again, and wont go any further. If i sit at a junction for maybe 10 seconds, it will start to get really lumpy, and shaky.

So far Ive changed the following:
Rotor Arm
Distributor cap
Thermo Time Switch
Warm Up Regulator
Metering Head
Throttle housing.

Also I have had a fuel pressure test done on it, and everything is ok, the cold start injector has been checked, as have all the plugs and leads. The only thing that looks slightly sketchy is the rubber pipe which comes out of the fuel filter to the metering head, and back out are cracked. Could this be the problem? Where can I get them?

If thats not the problem, what could be?! :roll:

         

have you tested your injectors

yep! that too…

Cheers thou!

You haven't changed the Coil yet ?

Under load and when the coil gets hot it can break down, therefore gicing a weak spark when load is put on the engine leading to stuttering and hesitation.  Another tail tail sign for a dodgy coil is the Rev counter leaping form zero to full revs onthe scale when the car cuts and and splutters.

Only other thought would be that you have a collapsed fuel feed pipe that is restricting flow.
My thoughts would be to strap it to a rollog road with teh fuel pressure rig on it and run it up to speed and watch the fuel pressure, if that stay wihtin limits then its got to be electrical  :wink:

Thanks!

To be honest I personally havent changed anything, as my dads friend likes working on it (he's a vw trained mechanic!), but he has checked all the obvious things he assures me!

Its been like this for about 2 months now!

 

Reminds me of my car. Devloped a fault that when it was hot it would misfire and cut out when I tried giving it some stick and the turbo came in. Spent months faffing around changing leads, plugs, coils, disi cap, rotor arm and so on, this went on for around 3 months. The one day Idecided to check the rubber bellows that joins the overboost housing tot he throttle and the damn thing was split underneath, so when it was cold it was fine as the extra fuel was keeping it wihtin the limits, but as soon asi ti got warm and was on normal fule pressure the extra air form the leak leaned off the mixture to the poitn it would cut out. Should have checked for this in the first place as I'd hasd this problem before but thought "Nah, won;t be the same thing again"     Might be worth checking for this as well  :wink:

sorry, this might sound thick, but where is the overboos housing?! Is it easy to get to/change the rubber?

CHeers again

No worries, you won;t have this housing on your car mate. Its part of the Turbo technics kit.

But what you will have is the rubber bellows that joins the plastic pipe form the metering head to the throttle body. It might be worth lookig at the bellows to see if its split. Also might be worth checking to make sure you haven;t got any general air leaks as well, look around the aux air valve and all thepipes that l;ead to it etc. Also make sure the aux air vlave is closing as this will also cuase a weak mixture. Eaiest way to check the aux air valve is when the car is warm squeeze the soft rubber pipe that conects to it, you will soon know if its letting air thru. When the car is hot the valve should be shut.  :wink:

have you changed the module

whats a module?!

on the ns bullkhead just by the bonnet hinge

is that not otherwise known as the tci unit?

Thanks all again! TurboTechnics…..Is this the bits you mean?

The pipes with arrows pointing towards them are the ones that have corroded….

Where could i find the aux air valve?!

Any other suggestions? After leving it overnight and driving to work this morning the hesitation after 3750 seems to have disappeared, although the problem with it starting fine but when i press the accelerator it wants to stall…

     

Also, the passenger side rear wheel was making some high pitch squeaky noises, and was very hot, so me n my dad took the back wheel off and took the wheel bearings out to have a poke, cos nothing obvious was wrong, put it all back greased it up, the squeaking has gone, but the wheel is still hotter than the opposing one. (My dad seems to think a hot wheel indicates wheel bearing)
 :dontknow:  

jung,

I have aux air valves, tci's etc ifyou need one.

I would not worry about those pipes - they have a protective over plastic that usually cracks but does not affect the function of the pipe.

Have you changed the fuel pump and/or checked for the little filter in the back - I can lend you a fuel pump for a trail if you want.  Gimme a shout.

I'd also bung a coil and a new set of quality leads on it.

Cheers

Rich

what's the tape on the outlet from the fuel filter there for? (second arrow in your pic).. if you take it off, does it leak?

that control unit on the bulkhead that I can never remember the name of with the heatsink on it… not entirely sure, but would have thought if that failed you wouldn't get the voltage to the hall sender in the dizzy so wouldn't start at all

if you getting the right amount of fuel out the injectors and the spark is fine (I'd still get a new coil.. pretty cheap) then I'd have thought there's an air leak somewhere.. split pipe or something

They tape was put on by my very own hands, to see if it made a difference, which it didnt….bum! It doesnt leak if i take it off either.

We're gonna have another hunt for an air leak tomorrow.

Also i failed to mention that the co2 level keeps going up to around 7 after its been re set, could this be linked, or just another money sucking problem?

ah I see, I'd try another coil and see if that makes a difference. I've got a good spare and I'm sure Rich will have some too

rear wheel getting hotter than the other side could also be the rear brakes out of adjustment (one coming on before the other or rubbing slightly on the drum)

cool, how do i adjust the rear brakes?

So i should try a new coil and an aux air valve, and cross my fingers, then judo chop my dads "mate" for making me spend all that money on parts that didnt change a thing. Im a flippin student, cant afford all this!

 :evil:


deep breath, and relax

 ops:

yeah come on mate! breathe.. breathe!!

haven't needed to adjust the rear brakes yet.. think you will just need to slacken off the wedge by one of the brake shoes if that makes sense?