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1990 clipper cutting out problem

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1990 clipper cutting out problem

can anyone help please,I have just had a new carb fitted which was replaced due to the common pierburg trouble, yet I am still having 'cut out porblems' when running at norm temp(guage by the red light in the temp range).ther car seems fine until it cools down to much,then stalls, What i
have also noticed is when i press the accelerator at idle from cold start their is a slight pause then it will rev cleanly(albeit better than ever before) but when it ticks over it still fluctuates a little & feels like what i can
describe as 'dropping revs' (seems to drop more than gain when it
fluctuates).   any suggestions

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Try a couple of easy things first. Check you have a warm air supply to the carb via the hose from the exhaust manifold. Check the hose for leaks and it is connected properly at the manifold and the air cleaner.

Also check a good clean supply of fuel from the fuel pump to the carb by taking off the hose at the pump and letting the fuel into a glass jar.

Cheers
Rajan

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Sounds like its air-ing on the mixture at idle. When you replaced the Carb, did you check the rubber flange? This part often cracks and needs replacing. This also might cause your slight hesitation on pickup.
Check you VAC pipes too that they are all fitting snug. Another option is to clean the carb by stripping it. Blow out all the Jets with an air line.

Other than that its timing of sorts.

Hope it helps.


Regards

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thanks, as I know nothing about cars i will take a picture, if i send you it can you just show me what should be connected where..thx's again

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Can anyone help, I am really at my wits end now!!

The problem I have is the dreaded cold start problem know to Golfs of this era, where the car will stall/cut out very quickly
when starting from cold. (Note: if I get the car to normal running temp from standstill , it will run ok unless it cools down, then the usual cutting out problems)

I have a new carb fitted etc/new fuel filters/pipes/all leads/spark plus/distributer cap etc etc
New starting motor/coil/battery is only 3 months old. All the fuel supply is apprently ok & clear/clean fuel gettign through.

All this has been changed over a couple of weeks, yet still the same problem remains & its costing a fortune -albeit when/if finally solved I should get a few years use out of my car

I have ordered a new pipe from the 'manifold to the air filter', but surely this cant cause this problem on its own!

Any suggestions would really really be appreciated, as there must be something I have missed!!

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Does it run ok when its hot? and have you the pierburg carb?

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satelliteone said

Does it run ok when its hot? and have you the pierburg carb?


yes & its a brand new pierburg carb, couldnt find a weber

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I'd be tempted to take it back to wherever it was that fitted the carb and get them to set it up properly!

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Steve_Matthews said

I'd be tempted to take it back to wherever it was that fitted the carb and get them to set it up properly!

Its fitted perfect, my uncle has in the trade (40 years experience), even he's baffled!!  The carb come from a guy on ebay who specilaizes in vw golf carbs, who is himself an ex vw employee of 30 years..comes with all test sheets etc,which we also got copies of what the readins should be from vw, when warm the car actually runs better than i have known it in the 10 years i've had it..but something is causing the aggro..really baffled me!!

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When it is cold you have to manually keep the revs well up to run? or else it will cut out, and then have to restart the engine.

Just for info, check your VAC pipes. This will give you info for placement.

http://etka.auto2.ru/vw/GOC/1984/44/49/492247/

You might not have Part 25. on yours. Also you might not have the MFA VAC guage either. Part 15 is a one way return valve. Check this by sucking one end and them blowing.(SOUNDS NASTY)..lol Got to be the right way round and working ok.

http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94406&PN=12

One way or another you will find out out what is causing your problems. Just takes a little time.

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Check the VAC capsule on the Dizzy is not leaking.

Check the Fule shut of valve on the side of the carb is energised.

Check the Timing.

Set the Fast idle Screw.

TT

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satelliteone said

When it is cold you have to manually keep the revs well up to run? or else it will cut out, and then have to restart the engine.

yes!!  thats exactly it(but it don't cut out straight away & starts withing secoonds of retrying, but when warm it runs perfect!!  It did need a new carb which didnt help, just other bits..I know its a process of elimination, just frustrating. Will send the comments to my uncle so he can check all.

at least I'm learning about my car!!

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Well here goes, My car was ok when MOT?d end of oct05, then went horribly wrong!!!

 I now still have the same fault after a new distributor & pipe from ?manifold to air cleaner?.

So far:-

New choke & carb (plus gaskets)
New pipes/tubes/fuel filters
New starter motor
New plugs/leads/plus other electrical items to do with distributor cap etc
New air filter
New coil
New ?earth? wires
Everything on this forum that has been advised, has been checked?please help,
Cars worth to much to scrap(plus I cant afford it anyway)

Any vw specialists close to Portsmouth, please let me know. I?ve rang pete cooper the local franchise & they want ?90 a hour!!

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And it did this with your last carb?.

If i rule out the carb here at fault, then i come down to a cold problem. But the carb has a system in place for cold running. The waxstat Choke idea and it autos on the cold start for revs.Have a look on top of the carb when cold, see if the choke flap is over.

I wonder if your waxstat is getting hot water? I have heard that there is a O ring in the inlet manifold that can get blocked with gunge. This can cause cold running problems. as the hot water cant freely get around too well.

http://etka.auto2.ru/vw/GOC/1984/44/49/491869/
The pic aint that clear on the seal, Part 32. Need to confirm this with my version of ETKA.

If your carb is 100% ok lets say with this idea, then it would run always with the choke on. Im not too happy with this idea causing your problem.

Two things comes to mind, either the mixture is too weak when cold (no choking) or there is fuel starvation for some reason. Maybe a blocked jet, badly set up carb,faulty fuel pump,airing on the intake somwhere.

You have changed a lot of the electical system so i would rule that out, and due to the fact it runs ok when hot. It really points to the carb. I would be rather miffed if i was you by now. I had peirburg problems with my car as it was getting on a bit and time for a recon unit. I opted for the weber from advice and glad i did. Such an easy carb to work with.

Ask your mech that does your work just to go through all the possibles, pipes, water pipes getting hot ok around the peirburg. Inline fuel filter. This might be a bit drastic but you might have to stip the carb and give it a bloody good clean. If this all fails then ask the guy you bought it from to do a retest on the carb.

Is so easy thinking what it could be, but with out being there and listening to the car iam not really going to find out the real reason is.

I really hope it helps.
Andy

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anything is a help & greatly apprecaited,on the plus side i found a haynes manula in pdf format if anyone wants a copy, only 8meg in size:)

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just to keep you all who has helped updated, the carb is being returned back to sellar. Hopefully for a full refund. 2 independant people have chcked it this am & said the choke is coming off to early & it cannot be adjusted, hence fuel freezing..any ideas/anyone got a webber ot know where i can get one. 1.8auto1990  ex engine type..

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ahhh haaaa....Seen the light. weber comin your way it seems. Okdoki.. im gona keep a huge weber hunting eye open for you.

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carb

Hi mate did you get my email ill take a look for you if you like i dont charge ?90 hour dont worry about cost its more than likely to be somthing minor causing all this drop me an email and let me know when your about

im in all day saturday got some other cars to fix so pop it round if you can join the party :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

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I'm getting similar snags on my '89 clipper in that once it starts (a whole different problem in itself!) I usually have to keep playing with the throttle for a couple of mins before it will idle without spluttering and dying.  When I had choke problems on previous Golfs I fitted a manual choke.  Relatively easy to fit and cheap, however this time I might try some of the points suggested first :wink:

Ian

'89 Clipper Auto and '92 GTI Cabby

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golfs normally start well from cold, pierburg or not. if its carking it when (hot, half way where it should be) temp guage in middle might be weak spark? :dontknow:  have a look at a sparkplug mate when it dies on you (sooty is weak spark/over fueling, white is not enough fuel), i reckon its gonna be over-fueling rather than under-fueling if engines hot. have u set timing, co mixture? normally its a poorly set up carb, bad lead etc check your earths for a good connection, all of em! carb, coil, battery, clean em up. pierburgs aint best ever but should be decent when engines warm. next time it dies on you mate, whip a sparkplug out and let us know whats going on! is it worse when you have electrics on or its wet weather?
keep your chin up, theres always someone that knows (bert or mi dad) :wink:
cheers,
paul
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