Steering Rack Boot

The part number for the boot will be ok, but the one for the heatshield won't be unless you have C clip type exhaust.

Take a look at the diagram further up this post… an '83 GTI usually has the setup at the top of the diagram, the heatshield is in 2 parts and I think its no longer available at VAG but you need to check. There are other nuts, bolts washers and spacers specific to this type of setup for bolting it to the down pipe also, which I think are available.

Cheers,

Ross

I have used boots, and steering column shafts if anyone needs them  

Sorry to bump this from last year but I found it via the search function.

Just a quick question on the subject - Can the U/J be greased because I asked VW about it when ordering a heatshield and they said its a sealed unit and so will need replacing if its drying up! You cannot just apply grease to it. They then quoted me ?135.18 (part no:172 419 951B) + vat for the U/J!

Can anyone clarify this as it could save me ?150!


Thanks in advance!  

No reason you can't slap a bit of grease on it but it probably won't penetrate to the bearings.  I've got good used ones at a fraction of the VW new price.

Cheers

Rich

crazyquiff said

No reason you can't slap a bit of grease on it but it probably won't penetrate to the bearings.  I've got good used ones at a fraction of the VW new price.

Cheers

Rich

Oh ok cool! Ill drop you a PM.

crazyquiff said

I have used boots, and steering column shafts if anyone needs them  

Would you happen to have a used boot for my 1.8 auto ?

Nearly 15 years later????,  probably better to contact him directly

Power Steering, or Manual?

  http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/Items.php?cat=SLAREA&group=ENGINEBAY

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-steering-rack-knuckle-boot-172419523-jetta-scirocco-caddy-19141-p.asp

Briano1234 said

Power Steering, or Manual?

Sorry Briano haven't been on for some time, its an auto my friend

now Power steering or manual?

Boots are cheap, and Fairly easy to replace.  Make a mark in White paint on the rod behind the outer tie-rod nut I have also used teflon tape and that worked well…..
Loosen the Lock nut and remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, and remove it and the nut from the shaft.
Loosen the Rack mount and only loosen it a wee bit so you can get a little movement.  Spray the mounting nuts with pb-blaster, kroil or your favorite penetrating oil….Brush the nuts and exposed thread with a wire brush, and if you can use an impact that is the ticket, as if yours have never been loosed since new, they can torque shear if you use a Socket and Breaker bar…..Just go easy.


Once you get it loose a wee bit you can force the old one off by clipping the strap or loosening it then wiggle it off.
You may have a equalization line on a power steering that allows the expanding boot to suck air from the collapsing boot on the other side as when you turn one side goes out and the other goes in….This equalization line prevents the boots from passing air and giving you a flatulence noise on turns….

You can use the new clips or Wire-Ties, Wire-ties work well, and I have used them.
Use the clips if you want the true oem look. Retighten the rack mounts replace the nut on the inner shaft alignment or tracking should still be correct…. I also use Never-Seize on the rod threads in the outer tie-rod and nut,,,,makes it easier to change them out later.
Replace the outer tie-rod end and place the nut on the markand screw the outer to it, then lock it down…. 

Briano1234 said

now Power steering or manual?

Boots are cheap, and Fairly easy to replace.  Make a mark in White paint on the rod behind the outer tie-rod nut I have also used teflon tape and that worked well…..
Loosen the Lock nut and remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, and remove it and the nut from the shaft.
Loosen the Rack mount and only loosen it a wee bit so you can get a little movement.  Spray the mounting nuts with pb-blaster, kroil or your favorite penetrating oil….Brush the nuts and exposed thread with a wire brush, and if you can use an impact that is the ticket, as if yours have never been loosed since new, they can torque shear if you use a Socket and Breaker bar…..Just go easy.


Once you get it loose a wee bit you can force the old one off by clipping the strap or loosening it then wiggle it off.
You may have a equalization line on a power steering that allows the expanding boot to suck air from the collapsing boot on the other side as when you turn one side goes out and the other goes in….This equalization line prevents the boots from passing air and giving you a flatulence noise on turns….

You can use the new clips or Wire-Ties, Wire-ties work well, and I have used them.
Use the clips if you want the true oem look. Retighten the rack mounts replace the nut on the inner shaft alignment or tracking should still be correct…. I also use Never-Seize on the rod threads in the outer tie-rod and nut,,,,makes it easier to change them out later.
Replace the outer tie-rod end and place the nut on the markand screw the outer to it, then lock it down…. 

Thanks Briano1234 wealth of knowledge as always

I think the manual rack boots will fit over the rod end without having to remove it, give that a go before you split the end off