Rack adjustment

If you're under the car looking straight up at the bits you're working on, wear safety glasses (or swimming goggles, if you don't have any safety specs) - apart from having to stop to wipe crud out of your eyes every 20 seconds, you can get metal flakes from (an old) exhaust in your eyes, requiring a hospital visit to get them removed from your cornea (and yes, I have been there, and done that  8O  )

Cheers Lhasa, and cheers '17' for the specs advice. I wear safety specs when under the car as sick of my eyes getting full of crap!

lhasa said

jack up the front of the car and put on axle stands,slide under the car on your back  then the left hand goes in the the left of the exhaust and the right hand to the right of the exhaust, takes a little time to get your hands in the right position.

Hold the spanner in the right hand.

I reckon you must be double jointed lhasa?! I was doing an oil and filter change this morning so thought I'd give it a go. Blimey, couldn't seem to get any where near the adjusters. 8O

Think I'm gonna have a word with my mate with the ramp and have a propper go!!

Its really easy once you've done the job once. You can't see the nuts at all, you have to feel with your fingers on the left hand you should feel a nut, its not that one then push your fingers a little further and you will feel the locking nut and stud, practice a few times and keep relaxed no point getting in a paddy. Once you know where the nut and thread is use the small 17mm stub spanner with your right hand and fed it over the stub and push anti clock wise, then use a 7mm spanner (any length will do) and put it on the end of the stubby thread turn clockwise until tight and back of a quarter of a turn, tighten up locking thread, check if the steering if it is to stiff back off the a little more until you get it right.

Cheers lhasa - I will give it another bash!

Don't bother with a ramp, I used 2 axle stands from Halfords on the maximum level then laid on my back, I think lying on the back would make it easier to get in there. The only bad point is the forearms get very dirty so maybe using an old jumper would make it easier for you to clean up.

The adjustment only takes about 5 minutes it is the inital co-ordination with the hands to get in the right position is the hardest bin, hang in there Hairy.

Went to get the wheel bearings done but was told they are ok, instead the ball joints at the end of the rack (where the rack connects to the track arms)each side are worn. The rack itself has been adjusted as you know. It could be that if adjustment is required the joints are also worn. The new rack will be fitted on Wednsday or Thursday.

I have decided to change the track rod ends and ball joints myself before I go the whole hog. I don't trust garages anyway because they may not tighten up the locking nuts.

Think you're right Lhasa. On last MOT they did make note about the ball joints. If I'm not selling the car then I think I might just do the whole lot, rack, joints etc.

No point in throwing money away if the rack is ok.

I went to GSF and asked for a L/H track rod arm and R/H track rod arm and one R/H tie rod end, but was told that the part they sell does the L/H and R/H with locking nuts. I thought the R/H only had the locking nut. Anyone?

The LH track rod is not adjustable from the factory, but if you need a replacement one (from VAG as well as GSF), you will be supplied with an adjustable one.

It's better to have them both adjustable anyway, because it makes it easier to centre the steering wheel during tracking.

I didn't expect such a quick reply but was hoping :roll: thanks type17, I will buy the parts tomorrow.

Purchased 2 today from GSF, which are very good quality.

I fitted the L/H side today but had a hard time locking the nut on the steering shaft, the nuts a hugh and I didn't have a spanner big enough. I managed to lock tight using 2 mole grips. The steering is much better now and the play has completely gone and I havn't done the other side yet! The steering wheel is steady at 70 mph before I had a little left to right movement.

What annoyed me today was that the locking nut was loose on the rack and split pin was missing on the lower ball joint!! Never again will I go to a garage.

Good job, don't forget to get the tracking done ASAP, to ensure that you don't wear out your front tyres…

You did make sure that the rack was centred and the new tie rod was only on as far as the haynes states? realy need large adjustable wrenches for those inner nuts, treat it to 4 wheel alignment when your done  :wink:  makes a huuge difference trust me!

Cheers ,

You can't get in properly with a spanner to lock the nut, mole grips is the only way unless the rack is out! things gets in the way!

I'm doing the R/H arm tomorrow.

I always track by eye, DIY is much better than throwing your money away to the cowboys.

I went to the locking nut but will make adjustments tomorrow when I do the R/H

cheers

8O  no it is worth it, its just finding someone you trust  :wink:  and it is something that you will notice

Storm, you can't trust anyone believe me. I prefer to DIY, right or wrong thats it.

Garages are always in a rush and in my experience ALWAYs miss something. When my head was done 2 weeks ago the Garage left off the earth wire to the rocker cover which resulted in the LCD computer display not working!