HELP........ it won't start

have you checked the cambelt? suppose that must be Ok cos the engine is sparking so dizzy must be rotating.  Might have slipped tho - would at least fire I rekon. Mmmmm.

Is your spark still weak?

Have you pulled an injector to see if it is firing fuel when you turn it over?

Hmmm, condensor (if fitted)? I am guessing now! I'd go with checking fuel injectors too though as you may have a blockage in the fuel dizzy.

You scared me for a minute there Crazyquiff  8O - checked the cambelt is taught and in place. Haven't checked HT spark since changing coil - will do tomorrow.

Will also have a look at an injectors. Any tips on removing injectors? Aren't the injectors almost jammed into manifold with rubber seals? Think the Haynes mentions removing injectors one by one and placing into a jam jar and watching spray pattern etc. Any other tips?

Dubboy, car has electronic dizzy so I think i'm right in thinking no condensor?

Cheers

Slight tangent and maybe daft question? But out of interest, do all gti's have electronic ignition?

I'm sure the cambelt will be fine but I'd give it a full rev by turning the crank pully nut and inspecting the teeth all the way round - I've seen belts tear out a few teeth before - this is very unlikely :?

You should be able to pull the injectors out by hand (they can be tight) or use a screw driver to lever them out - do not force them cos they can be snapped off  8O

Do the jam jar test when you crank it to see if you are getting a spray pattern.

Another test you can do is take the intake off the air valve end and spray some carb cleaner down when you are cranking - If it fires then it will point you down the fuel/spark route i.e. if it does fire then problem is fuel - if is does not fire the problem is spark.

The other test is a compression test - do that just to be doubley sure.

The engine has to have all three - spark - fuel - comprssion - one or more of these is missing from your motor   

Slight tangent and maybe daft question? But out of interest, do all gti's have electronic ignition?

No, the change to electronic ignition happened during 1980 Model Year. My '79 is on breaker points.

Cheers
Rajan

the best way to check that the injectors are spraying correctly is to remove all four from the head still on there pipes of course. then remove  the induction pipe from the top of the metering unit then remove the fuel injection relay and bridge the two large connections on the fuse box with a piece of wire(which will make the pump work constantly).and then you can lift up the flap in the metering unit and you can see how well the injectors spray. the spray pattern must be an even spray

Thanks for all your help, but have now towed car to local Bosch garage (used before - v good). My brother managed to get it booked in for today at an hours notice - helps when your brother works at the local Merc Dealers :wink: . Was reaching the limit of my knowledge/experience and I have no off-road parking or garage to work in. Have been working on car in road and the weather taken turn for worst today. Will let you know what the diagnosis is  :?

Strangely enough, I am in the process of writing some instructions for testing the injectors, and have a draft version on my site (but no links yet to other pages).

Warnings
- it's not complete yet
- use your browser 'Back' button if it opens in the same window, to get back to the Forum

When it's complete I will have a .pdf file for download.
I do NOT accet any responsibility for mistakes etc. at this point - it's not finished !!!!

Injector Test

Prowler, that's one cracking 'How To' FANTASTIC!!

Couple of little questions. Firstly, when you switch on the fuel pump with the home made switch has the ignition got to be on? Second, when you grease the new injector seals upon refitting do you have to use a certain type of grease?

Cracking article though mate. I guess it's a test we should all do on our Gti's and with your article you've made it look quite simple. I would have shyed away from this myself before! ops:

Again, nice job! 8)

Hairyarse said

Prowler, that's one cracking 'How To' FANTASTIC!!

Couple of little questions. Firstly, when you switch on the fuel pump with the home made switch has the ignition got to be on? Second, when you grease the new injector seals upon refitting do you have to use a certain type of grease?

Cracking article though mate. I guess it's a test we should all do on our Gti's and with your article you've made it look quite simple. I would have shyed away from this myself before! ops:

Again, nice job! 8)

Thanks Hairy, and for asking very relevant questions. These will need to be addressed in the final version - I did not think of the obvious q's.

1. Ignition is OFF, keys out.

2. Any high melting point grease - it's just to keep the seals lubricated and makes later removal much easier

3. It IS simple, just take your time. I've got it down to about 1/2 hour from start to finish (but I can do it blindfold now     )

I must state clearly - USE NEW SEALS. possibly replace them every year or so, they soon deteriorate (although ones I got from VAG seem to be better).

I composed the whole thing because all sorts of 'experts' were telling me my metering head was knackered, but I 'felt' it was injectors - I proved them all wrong using this method - 2 sets of dodgy injectors !!

IF ANY ONE ELSE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK, I WANT TO GET THIS PERFECT.

prowler i wish i could have put it that good. same as yourself i have used this method for years but braveley without the bottles as you get cocky with experience. i learnt this method from the vag official dealer manual

alexh said

prowler i wish i could have put it that good. same as yourself i have used this method for years but braveley without the bottles as you get cocky with experience. i learnt this method from the vag official dealer manual

Thanks

…learnt it from the boss of MobileTuning…
…and I'm supposed to be a Technical Author when I do any work….

Have now got it linked into the tips page on my website…

Injector Test

and will start a new topic, as not everyone may be following this one….

Dubboy wrote:

you may have a blockage in the fuel dizzy

Top prize (a broken metering head :twisted: ) go's to Dubboy. Looks like I need a new metering head. Aren't these quite expensive new? Mechanic's trying to source one second hand. Whats a good prize to pay?

Cheers

I imagine they are bloomin expensive new. Secondhand maybe ?30 with a receipt from a GTi breaker on the basis that you can take it back if it doesn't work either. Don't be tempted by Ebay as I imagine there is a lot of junk out there and FI parts either work or they don't.

Cheers

Thanks - is the 1800 fuel distributer different to the 1600? I've got one sitting on a laid up 1982 1800 that I know works.

Cheers

Am sure they are the same metering heads on 16 and 1800.
Managed to clean one up (from Blackman's near Maidstone), by disconnecting injectors from pipes, disconnecting filter, emtying it and meter head of fuel and filling the lot with injector cleaner, reconnecting everything except injectors, switching on to pump a bit of fuel to push the cleaner into the head and it's valves, let the lot sit for a couple of days. Then switched on to push a couple of litres of fuel out of the pipes (came out grotty at first), put injectors back on, put them in and it's still ok. Keeping my old one as a spare just in case (was the injectors that were knackered after all).
May be worth trying first.

Looked at the Elcats parts diagrams and quotes a different fuel meter part number for 1800/C year Chassis. Also checked Eurocarparts website and this shows different ones used from 17C chassis number - Mines a 17B. Eurocraparts have them listed from ?110 - ?400  8O , but none in stock?