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Gearbox Drive Flanges

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Gearbox Drive Flanges

Loving your work, although I think I'm coming to the realisation that unless I'm going to do about 10 boxes, it will be more cost effective for me to take it to a specialist! As I said before, it's a shame you are the wrong side of the pond to me!
Appreciate the updates sir!

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Yeah I hear you man. If I was still in the UK I would certainly have given you a hand with it. I still got my mk4 RS Turbo in the uk. She's a wide body one and been squirreled away in my garage for the last 18 years. Haven't quite got around to doing her yet cos all my tool are in the USA…LOL! Its true though most of the stuff is fairly easy to do, with the right tools, that's the kicker!!

I think I'm gonna have to get a piece of pipe to install the gears back on the shafts though. Luckily I have just the thing! When I bought my triple white Wolfsburg the guy I bought it from gave me a big old pipe with the car because the back left wheel was siezed. Used the pipe to get it on the trailer. Anyway, it might also come in handy now after all these years lol!

Today I put the new diff bearings on and had to use a deep socket as the tube type deal to get over the shafts and push the bearings on.

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Also got the two bearings back on the shaft.

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Had to rig the press plates up in a wierd way but it worked. Inner bearing went on ok.

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And lastly pressed the bearing race into the retainer plate for the output shaft. I actually put the other press plate on top of it before I pressed it down but didn't take photo of that because you couldn't see the bearing race or plate beneath it.

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Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Hi Paceman, another update for you. I got the gearbox housing blasted and painted with POR15 and also pressed in some of the housing races. Didn't really need any VW specific tools for that, just used my press and bearing driver tool.

These three bearings were the next to go in. Just showing them, not pressed in yet.

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I used the press and my bearing driver tool (forgot to take photo) but it's essentially the same as the other side minus the wood blocks and has to use the drive bar with the bearing driver because of the depth from the press. First differential race in.

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Next was out put shaft race. Used smaller bearing driver (hockey puck) to drive that in. Same setup, just used press and bearing drive bar.

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After that was the small bearing. Again same setup l, used even smaller bearing driver hockey puck and press, didn't need the drive bar because height was fine from press head.

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These three went in super easy, no issues at all.

Next was the Second differential race. Using same size bearing driver as previous. Had to stack block of wood under housing to keep the gasket side off the press base and to keep it level. Went in super easy, no issues to this stage.

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Next was the smaller housing, and the smaller needle bearing. Had to use a 2" deep socket to brace the underside of the housing while using the press. Also used the bearing drive bar to get the depth and used that with a small hockey puck to drive it in. Think it was 28mm possibly. (I have a whole set, just used the one that fits the size of bearing)

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Next was the big, deep groove ball bearing. This gave me a few more issues. I used piece of wood under it to protect the gasket surface, but wood has to fit between the alignment tubes of the housing. Then I had to use a 1-7/8" socket as the bearing driver, I then stacked the bearing drive bar on top of it and it wasn't the best setup. I always press bearings in slowly and gently with the press as if you got alingned ok they typically don't take much force to drive in. Anyway, this bearing got super tight, so took everything back out of press and my original setup was a little squint, so I tapped the bearing back out, realigned everything, swapped the smaller bearing drive hockey puck to a bigger puck to catch more of the socket head and she slipped right in on the second attempt. (The size of the bearing is difficult to align on first press down to get it going in straight) especially if you have a mcgiver setup like mine. Anyway it worked and I didn't need VW tools.

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After that I started putting everything back together. Put the diff in, put the output shaft in, bearing output shaft bearing bracket and slid the washer, first gear and the synchro on. Then everything ground to a halt. In order to get the 1st/2nd synchro hub on you need VW244b. It's essentially a bit of pipe that slips over the shaft and you can press the synchro hub on. You also need VW455 to get drive the bearing bush on for 3rd/4th. again it's a tool which is same as previous it's just sized to drive the bush on, so essentially a bit of pipe the size of the bush but slips over the shaft. I have pipe and stuff to make one, but honestly by this stage I was like grrrr so did some hunting online and picked up both. About $150 for both. Again I have several boxes to do so makes sense for me, it would cost more in my time to make them so I just bought them. Anyway, for the second or third time in this thread……..all stop,……waiting for tools! Lol.

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Oh and lastly first gear synchro appears to be different to all the rest. I have this posted as a separate question in help forum, but looks like it is purposely missing three teeth. I don't know why but bently says so, VW has different opinion and broke VW appear to use one with no missing teeth which looks same as all the other synchros. So not sure about that yet. See other post for details and part numbers of the synchros. You can see the three missing teeth, from original synchro, at my index finger tip, pinky finger tip and about 120degrees offset from the others….not enough fingers lol.

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Last edit: by Shubbs


Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Today's update Paceman. I got the kukko puller 21-01 tool I ordered in so rigged that up to get the starter bushing out of the case. Having the correct tools makes the job a breeze! Used two little aluminum cut outs I had to save the face of the gearbox where the puller was mounted too. Hooked it up and it came right out.

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Kinda wierd but once I got it out it fell apart in my hand. Looks like it had 4 cracks in it from previous. They were dirty and black. So didn't look like I had just cracked it. My guess it's shape and being pressed in, as well as the starter motor shaft being in there was all that was holding it together. If I had known it was this badly cracked I would have just tried chiseling out. But it was in there pretty good from last attempt to get out.

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Anyway that one out I cleaned the hole and setup the new one to go in. The bearing driver hockey pucks I have didn't go down in size small enough for that so I just put a coin on top of it, used the bearing driver and rubber mallet and tapped the new one into place.

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Starter fits nice now!!

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⚠️ WARNING ⚠️  Oh I almost forgot I had to reuse that obsolete INA bearing mentioned in previous posts in the 5th gear housing. I Just simply cannot locate another. INA themselves didn't even have any alternatives or the 5 bearing companies I contacted so ⚠️ WARNING ⚠️ for anybody else that comes afterward, if that bearing looks good just leave it in the housing don't take it out or risk damaging it and you may not be able to get a replacement. I gave mine a few Tweeks and a little bit of TLC and pressed her back in same as the others.

PXL_20220518_155554948.jpg

Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Paceman, couple more updates. I got VW tools, VW244b, VW455 and also VW519. These are basically all pipes of different diameters for driving in either sleeves or synchro housings.

So I used VW244b (big hollow drive bar) and VW455(that's the small stepped bit at the bottom of the bigger tool) to drive on the 1st/2nd gear synchro.

⚠️ Make sure you read the manual!!! The groove in that synchro hub is supposed to face first gear not 2nd like in my photos. I read that and still managed to get it backwards and didn't figure out I had messed it up until after everything was driven on. The only way you will know is that 1st gear is constantly engaged. It's wrong in my photos below but I didn't have photos of the setup the second time when I had the hub facing the correct way. Anyway I had to pull everything off again and redo it. On second attempt 1st gear disengages as it should.

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Next I put on second gear bearing race. I used VW455 and 244b to drive that on, same setup as the hub. After that synchro, bearing and 2nd gear.

(Photos below of the bearing race also show hub with flat face now facing 2nd. Forgot to take bearing race photos the first time around lol, but got them when I had to pull everything off again!)

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After that it was time for third gear to go on. (The shoulder on 3rd faces 2nd) And then the circlip. Pic shows just making sure circlip fits in the slot before being installed.

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So the stack up now looks like this.

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Once that was done. I moved on to the main shaft. 3rd gear bearing slips over the bump in the shaft and settles into its place then you slip on 3rd gear and it's synchro. Next you need VW519, I tried to use a few sockets at first but none of my deep sockets were deep enough to go over the shaft. So enter VW519 with the right bore and length of pipe. It is used to press down the 3rd/4th synchro hub. I used press with bearing hockey puck size 59mm on top of VW519 (hollow tube) to press on the hub.

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After that I put on the 4th synchro and then 4th gear on the main shaft. After that the main shaft was installed into the case.
⚠️ (You have to put the main shaft in the case before you put 4th gear on the pinion shaft or you will have to take it off again because you won't be able to install the main shaft because of the synchro hub won't clear the 4th gear on the pinion shaft)

Got a bit carried away after that and missed few photos. But I did it in this order.
Main shaft was installed,
then 4th gear on pinion shaft
Then reverse gear idler and reverse brackets
then the spring that slips into the housing, then the selector rod and forks for all gears and reverse.

Then it looks like this.

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After that it's the main housing to be pressed on with the deep groove bearing. You have to support the main shaft when you press that bearing on. I used two small pieces of wood (because I don't have that VW brace tool.) Anyway the two small pieces of wood fit in the bell housing and supported the main shaft. Separate photo of the wood but it's under the bell housing and you can't see it in the press photo. I then used VW244b to press on the deep groove bearing. (You could probably get away with using a deep socket instead of the VW tool but I just used it because I had it)

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Anyway that's it for now……5th gear is next. To be continued…… :)

Last edit: by Shubbs


Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Really detailed posts their sir - much appreciated! It looks to be coming along nicely. Gear changes are going to be a smooth as a hot knife through butter after all the work that has gone into it.


My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Today's update Paceman. 5th gear and the rest. 5th was fairly simple and I forgot to take staged photos. Just a completed photo. But I did take photos of the selector tube removal and install. (Forgot to post the removal previously, but I didn't have the special VW tool for that either so had to make do. Steps listed below. For the non photo stuff.

I dropped on fifth gear (it is supposed to be heated but I didnt. Also, there is a groove on it, it faces up) then there is a washer and the circlip that sits on top and holds it on.

Next I got the 5th synchro hub etc that was already built and cleaned and added the shift fork. Also need to add the small lock plate too. And tapped that on to the shaft and the shift rod goes though the holes obviously.

Next you need to the VW tool to screw in the selector shaft to the fifth synchro fork. I slid an old rag behind it and twisted it until it was tight, that way I could tighten it up half a turn at a time, it would grip the tube and then i would slack off the rag move it back and then tighten rag and move it another half turn kind of like a slip wrench. Not pretty but it worked. Used same method to take it off. Both photos are below (dirty photo is removal, used the grips to twist it tight, clean photo is install, didn't need the grips to install because all parts were clean.)

Removal

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Install - tub supposed to stick up 5mm when you are done.

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After that I tapped the lock plate into position and added the gasket. Then moved onto the selector because I wanted to see 5th working etc. Slide the selector in (had already tapped in the selector seal for the shaft, and rebuilt the selector) the only thing that I had left to do was add the outer big spring and then tightened up the big hex at the back. And also added the lock bolt in the side.

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Next I moved back to the 5th gear housing. I installed the clutch throw out bearing. With everything clean I couldn't get the bearing to stay in while I turned housing upside down so used a small scribe with a magnet in it and held it in place with the magnet while I turned housing over lined up the gasket and tightened up all the bolts. At this stage I added the selector rubber boot and also the gear linkage lever. (I had previously powder coated the clutch level and selector levers black)

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Next I installed the selector side drive seal. I used 1-7/8" socket and tapped the seal into place then installed the bronze thrust washer and the drive cup, spring and flange. I used the tool I had made previously to get drive Flanges off, now used again in slightly different config to get them back on but worked well. Put the washer back in and the circlip…….wasted a good ten mins fighting that circlip though. And then tapped the little black cap back into place.

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Next I used a small flat piece of wood and laid it on top of the green 5th cover plate and used a mallet to tap that into place.

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After that I installed the clutch push rod and began to install clutch push rod bushing…little bronze bushing that sit behind the seal. I had the push rod installed while i got this bushing started and about half way in. I Did this to keep the bush straight in the hole and not get hung up. Once it was in and going in straight i removed the push rod. Apparently you need a special VW tool to drive this in. I didn't have it, but luckily my bearing driver (no hockey pucks were small enough)! but the end of the driver itself was just the right size to get it started and pushed it flat with the end of the shaft.

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Next I had to find something smaller. And again luckily my bearing driver tool has a retaining screw on it so I remove that and the very tip of the bearing driver was just the right size to fit in the clutch rod hole and drive that bushing home.

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After that was done it was the seals turn. Same deal, I used bearing driver tool to drive that in.

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Lastly I used a 27mm deep socket and the extension to tap in the main seal.

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Installed the little green cap cover for the clutch/ flywheel window.

I'm still waiting on the green seal extension thing (you can see the busted up old one in the photo) once that arrives I will install that and finish up. Still have to reinstall all that side for the drive Flanges etc. But this is what it looks like for now. Almost done.

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Last edit: by Shubbs


Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Paceman……….in conclusion, here's the final steps of this here workscope for the gearbox.

Eventually got the green sleeve for the last drive flange seal. Ordered from Amazon but see they also have them on eBay either way it's looks like they are all coming from China. I bought a couple as I have few other boxes to do.

Anyway, here's a few pics of what I did.

Old sleeve new sleeve and gearbox.

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Next offered the sleeve up to gearbox. Then got a flat piece of wood and a mallet and then played Timmy mallet on it until it was  flush with the rim on the gearbox and the diff stub.

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Next inserted the bronze bushing in the diff bearing.
Photos showing with and without bronze bushing.

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Next installed the drive flange oil seal.

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Next installed the internal spring retaining cup, spring and drive flange. And then installed the outer conical washer for retaining drive flange, used my drive flange compressor tool that was made in earlier posts, installed the circlip and final cover for the diff shaft.

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So right now, I'm calling this one job done!!! Was quite a job from start to finish but first gearbox I've ever done so I'm calling it a win!! Final pic of rebuilt gearbox and now on to the next issue which is installing a new headliner and softtop. That's going to be a some fun also by the looks of it.

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Last edit: by Shubbs


Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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Epic work mate! Thanks for sharing to the limited audience of me.
Of course, like engine building, you can't test it until you have done a truck load of other jobs. Fingers crossed it performs as well as it looks and comensurate with the effort put in to it.

Top tip for when it comes to connecting the main shift rod to the front linkage. You need to set the gap at 15mm (not the 19mm the Haynes says). I cut a bit of alloy block to 15mm and then clamped it in place with a speed clamp. This meant I could get the front clamp on the rod without anything moving. Perfect shifting first time.

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Not the best picture in the world, but you get the idea.

Now, I wonder how much it costs to ship a gearbox over the pond….

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Appreciate the top tip on the gear linkage Paceman!! I will defo keep that in mind when I get around to setting it up. Thanks.

Yeah I hear you, fingers crossed indeed. Rebuilt my engine too so fingers crossed for that also!! Lol 🤣

Also, what's the yellow thing (not the clamp) but looks like a plastic cover on the "J" part of the linkage in the photo. Mine doesn't have that, it's just metal there, do I need the plastic piece? If so where do I get one from?

Mk1 VW 1989 Cabriolet (Clipper Kit) in restoration
Mk1 VW 1986 Cabriolet Wolfsburg Triple White (in queue)
Ford Escort RS Turbo, Wide Body (in queue for restoration)
Roush Mustang 485BHP 4.6L Supercharged Blackjack

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It's a hard nylon - doesn't look like something that can be replaced, it fully covers the metal part. I'm guessing it  is there to prevent wear (although I heavily greased everything before I put the linkage boot on) and accidental engagement of reverse.
If it missing then that will make the gap measurement different, by how much I don't know. Maybe 1-2 mm.

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To
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