Kjet stalling

Yes your right, I should not rush and post up comments….         When I remove my filler cap to fill up I have to slowly turn it and pull it off slowly then I get a whoosh sound when I remove the cap. After a couple of hours the filler cap comes off no problem.


Have you got this type of fuel cap fitted to the car?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191428380671?epid=680293964&hash=item2c920547ff:g:j3UAAOSwnDxUdyMr


Now I’ve got my car on the road I’ll have to pop over sometime to see you then we can compare fuel tank sounds 

mark1gls said

Yes your right, I should not rush and post up comments….          When I remove my filler cap to fill up I have to slowly turn it and pull it off slowly then I get a whoosh sound when I remove the cap. After a couple of hours the filler cap comes off no problem.


Have you got this type of fuel cap fitted to the car?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191428380671?epid=680293964&hash=item2c920547ff:g:j3UAAOSwnDxUdyMr


Now I’ve got my car on the road I’ll have to pop over sometime to see you then we can compare fuel tank sounds 

Surely the k jet system is not that complicated it is from the 70s nothing was complicated then in my view

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mark1gls said

Yes your right, I should not rush and post up comments….         When I remove my filler cap to fill up I have to slowly turn it and pull it off slowly then I get a whoosh sound when I remove the cap. After a couple of hours the filler cap comes off no problem.

Oh, that is what happens to mine. I assumed it was suction due to petrol leaving the tank. It's hard to turn, then I have to yank it out.

mark1gls said

Have you got this type of fuel cap fitted to the car?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191428380671?epid=680293964&hash=item2c920547ff:g:j3UAAOSwnDxUdyMr

Yeah that's the fella. Fiddly and falls out if you get it wrong.

mark1gls said

Now I’ve got my car on the road I’ll have to pop over sometime to see you then we can compare fuel tank sounds 

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Absolutely! Nice weather for it lately.

nicci21paul said

]Surely the k jet system is not that complicated it is from the 70s nothing was complicated then in my view

I don't know…  spaceships going to the edge of the solar system?

I guess something is easy if you know how to do it. I find computers very straight forward. Some people struggle with them.

The plot thickens…

The car won't run at all now.
I can't keep it going with the gas, but without it, it stalls instantly.

I checked the ISV and something has changed. It now gets 0.3V when I turn on the ignition, then the voltage stops almost instantly.

I guess I must have done something when checking pipes, removing dash etc.

So either something is telling the controller to turn it off, or the controller is doing it itself.

Time to look into the electrics…

Controller? Remind me, what year and model is this car? ETA I've just re-read page 1 of the thread, I'm not sure if you've installed all the components from a Mk2 16V onto the car, or what year the Mk2 16V was. I don't remember an ISV on those but some K-Jet cars had them.

When I did my 2l 16V conversion, I used a Mk2 KR 16V WUR, Mk1 1.6 GTI metering head and an AAV and the rest was 1.8 Mk1 components. I don't remember having an ISV in it.

Even if the ISV is fully closed, the car should be able to run idling, albeit at very low rpm. So I think you've got something else not adjusted properly in addition.

My abf does not have isv or aav just a basic engine in lay man's terms

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paul_c said

Controller? Remind me, what year and model is this car? ETA I've just re-read page 1 of the thread, I'm not sure if you've installed all the components from a Mk2 16V onto the car, or what year the Mk2 16V was.

Idle stabilisation controller. The little black box (like an ECU).

Mine is a 92 cab that that came with a 2H Digifant, but that's all gone now.

The engine is a 9A, and most of the injection system is from a mk2 16V which I guess was a late one as it came with the ISV. The inlet manifold and throttle body are from a Scirocco 16V so everything is on the mk1 side of the car.

There was also something added to keep pressure in the fuel lines after the ignition is turned off. Not sure what it's called.

ISV seems to be working. The voltage seems to increase with temp.


I have surprisingly few pictures of it.






 

Paul c commenting on my post or the whips

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If your ISV looks like the one in the link below I may have one in my shed, it was working when I tried it on my old Mk2 Golf a few years ago, if I can find it we could try it on your car to see if that helps?
I'll let you know the part number on mine as there seems to a few different numbers???

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133795877215?hash=item1f26db115f:g:82EAAOSwE~Zg0Z6M

That would be cool.

It's the same part number, but without the F.
It's possible that the F may have worn away though.

Have you tried taking it off and spraying some carb cleaner through it? I remember my mum had a Mk2 with an ISV and there were a few times I had to give it a good clean out. Everytime it went in to VW they wanted to replace it. Good dose of carb cleaner - perfect!

I did try cleaning it, but am going to take it off and have another look.

Well I gave it a start today with no accelerator to help and…

This to me looks to be exactly what it should do. Start with slightly higher idle and reduce to 1000 (slightly high, but I set it like that yesterday).

So what's changed?…
I put dash back in and connected the switches (unlikely to change anything).
It's no longer on a slope (possibly fuel lelated?)
Yesterday it was in the sun all day. Today it's been in a cool garage.

So how about trying to start once it's a temp…

Not a happy bunny. Not sure what the horrible sound is. You can see me giving it some revs at 23 seconds, and it settles down happily. Tried this again on the slope outside, and it was exactly the same.

Any thoughts?

Incase anyone is following this in the future…

The problem turned out to be the ISV. But it wasn't broken:

I checked all the power connections were working from switched live. I was using my 12v USB adapter as it has a display so it is easy to see if it is powered or not. I happened to notice that when it was connected to where the ISM had been plugged in, the display read 5V. Once I plugged into a different output the ISV started buzzing and all the problems went away.