Fuel tank replacement

And so it begins. The road to recovery.










To be fair not as bad as i thought it was or it could have been.


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The man with the electric glue stick has finished.

Can now finally refit the fuel tank.











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 Back in black and fuel tank fitted.

Can’t do much more until heritage parts get my final few bits to me.

Tempted to install the rear beam and fit the arb end clamps with it in the car but I know this will be much harder.


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Anti roll bar end clamps came yesterday. Not had much time, but managed to fit the clamps and Theo’s morning put the rear beam back on.

Still need to finish off fitting the accumulator, fuel pump etc and connecting all pipes for brakes back up but it’s progress.  






 







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Your clamps look upside down..

Really. Damn.

Does it matter ???


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Dont suppose it does really

Hello I’m new here how can I be sure if my new thread was posted
Thanks in advance


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So managed to get about 5 hours work into her this weekend.

More brake line creation and replacement of nipples.

Stainless steel fuel pump cage fitted and new accumulator. Fits better when put in correctly rather than the wrong way round like the last person to work on it. Had me stumped for ages.

Tightened up all the back end and made all hydraulic connections.

Ordered a new servo as the one I have just won’t work £256 brand new fro euro car parts for an ATE one. That stings a bit.

Anyhow hopefully by the weekend I shall have a running car with brakes.  

Not sure all this effort is worth it yet just for disc brakes on the rear but it’s almost done now and hopefully it will pull up straight.

 









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Looking good sir!

So not sure the wife agrees this is the best spend of £350.

Hopefully get it fitted this week.




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Been looking at the hand brake cables and to save a little bit of money I am going to attempt to use the mk2 cables.

The cables fit everywhere but they come up a little short on connecting to the actual hand brake. Therefore I am going to try to use the rod connectors detailed in the picture and then put some extended thread through the little u clamp that goes around the handbrake.

If it works then it’s a cheap and simple solution to use mk2 cables on a rear disc conversation. If it don’t then I guess I am buying Rocco cables. Apparently they fit with some sort of mod - not sure what mod is needed though.




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How short are they? I thought mine were short (std drum set up) but they are just a pig to fit.
One thing to be careful of is that you have enough adjustment to get the handbrake to work without the u-clamp hitting the connecting nuts. Good idea though!

FYI - your servo is upside down in that first pic  
Why did you need a brand new one?

J

BTW I like those wheels - what flavour are they?

Yep noticed that when fitting it yesterday and turned it around. Getting good at fitting bits upside down.

Brought a new one as needed a 9 inch servo to run the disc brakes. Tried to get second hand but nothing really about. In the end lost patience and got it from euro car parts for about £250. M/C from GSF was about £90. Will need the remake the bake lines local to the MC as they rout slightly differently + want to clean it up a little.

On the handbrake the threads are about an inch short from reaching with the handbrake down. Therefore the rod connectors which are 30mm long with close the gap the about 10-15 mm. I shall us a locking nut on the cable end to lock the connector in place. I shall then extend a long bolt through the hand brake clamp and connect to the other end of the connector locking it in place with another nut. In the end I should have about 5-10mm of available travel which is needed I can extend by up to about 10 mm by lowering the position of the connector nut on the main cable. Sounds more work than it actually is.

Alternative is to cut down the good tubes underneath but I don’t want to do this in case someone or me wants to return it to drum brakes. Otherwise bespoke cables are about £80.

Thanks for the comment on the wheels. There a bit marmite. Some people hate them. . They are Konig Elan wheels which are not made any more. (You could say period after market). I brought them for £40 on eBay hand painted and in a real state. Another £120 at the local powder coaters and they were acid cleaned and I had them done in the grey. Then toyo tyres from black circles  so by then end we’re about 300-350 as need tuner bolts to fit them due to the very small bolt hole.

When I can afford it I have some original RAs which I will get refurbed and likely swap them but not a priority if I am honest with myself.

Hopefully I shall have the thing running by the weekend and then be able to shake it down next week. Just need some motivation to get back outside with it.


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So after spending about £2k on fuel tank, pump, accumulator, rear axle upgrade and discs, servo,master cylinder and various pipes I finally get it back in its wheels yesterday.

Put some fresh super unleaded in and it would not start.  

I smell petrol. Grrrrr

It turns out the metal feed line from the tank to the engine has turn into a mini petrol fountain

It is likely my original fuel starvation that set me onto this journey in the first place was caused by a leaking fuel pipe and not an issue with tank, accumulator etc etc. DOH AND DOUBLE DOH.

But even though it is firing petrol out I have managed to put a little bit of pipe over the top and half stem the flow and get it started. Moved it to the grass next to the drive and I will stitch in some copper pipe with some fitting and flared ends. Next summer replace both pipe with new full length flexible. £160 from CQ.

On the plus side the discs look nice on the rear.

It’s a journey for sure.






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So my cheap solution to mk2 hand brake cables continues.

£20 local engineering shop new bracket for the handbrake.

Let’s see if this works





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Looks great that!

Flat battery but got it fitted.

I extended by 10 mm. Was a pain to fit would recommend 15mm if someone copies it.





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Will road test in an hour or two.


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