Skip navigation

ARC894Y

Post

Back to the top

Project Corona

Yep, leave as much of the original underneath as possible. Replace the stone chip with a good quality one after priming and repainting what needs to be done.

As for replacing bits. Stick to replacing rubber items and anything else that's worn. Anything big with surface rust only then blast and powder coat or etch prime and paint.

Check the bearings on items that you will be keeping as these are wear items.

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

Post

Back to the top
71154DE4-0A39-4CF9-8786-EDAFA6057BF5.jpeg Got all the bits ready for the powdercoater lined up ready to be taken then it started to pour down so had to run indoors. I'm going to go back to Silver with the alloys, not sure why I like white any way!  

My plan now is to refurb the hub carriers and possibly the drive shafts although I'm not sure if I can be bothered to strip the cv joints and would rather renew the entire driveshafts. I think I'm just being really lazy though, so I'll have a think about it!

I Was going to strip the under seal off the bottom of the car today but looks like weather may be terrible all day so I'll have to do another job instead. Still trying to do at least one job a day.

I'm still unsure on exhaust, I'm really tempted by the non resonated Miltek but it might just be because of the brand reputation. Has anyone got any videos of their exhaust they can send me so I can hear what they are like or any suggestions? I'm used to my r8 exhaust which is really loud on start up and then gets quieter, I love it on start up but I'm disappointed when the valves close and it quietens down. It might just be my 17 year old inner child coming out but I love a loud exhaust!  8EDF60FD-9C0C-4A52-BE10-622787E64C2E.jpeg

Post

Back to the top
Keep the original VW wishbones if you can, the after market FEBI ones are not as good as the genuine ones.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

Post

Back to the top
Mine are a bit dented and not looking that great. I've ordered some new ones already but I'll have a look tomorrow and cancel if they are salvagable.  I'm inherently very lazy so was going for the easiest option of replacing bits rather than refurbish them. I'll have a rethink though if quality is not as good. Thanks for the advice guys. 

I'd already started stripping the under seal on the inner wings so tonight I did most of the last wing and primered it. I'm going to attack the back arches in a different way and not go back to bare metal. The stone chip does need refreshing though. So I'll strip that off but Can anyone suggest a product that will go over the top of the solid stone chip? 

Post

Back to the top
If the original ones are bent and distorted then you might be best to change them.
There's nothing wrong with the Febi ones but if you compare them you will see the difference.

I've just fitted some FEBI ones to my car but I'm keeping the originals to clean up and repaint to re fit some time in the future.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

Post

Back to the top
I've seen after market ones rot out and collapse. There have also been stories of the seams ripping apart as they are not fully seam welded.

Deffo lag the new ones in lots of paint, especially in the inside if you can and if you have access to a welder might be worth welding the seams fully.

Ian


Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

Post

Back to the top
Excellent. I have a new welder coming this week and this will be a good first little project for it. So weld up the seams etch primer, and then seam sealer, then epoxy primer, then paint and stone chip and paint the stone chip? Jeez! 

Post

Back to the top
979EA846-2878-4D23-8F89-DB44BF7E52A7.jpeg image.jpg Oh Dear. I don't know if this is just too far gone to warrant carrying on! I tipped the car 3/4s of the way round and discovered some horrible things lurking underneath. Awful welds and repairs rust everywhere sills completely gone. I'm not sure it's worth carrying on. It's in terrible condition now and may be beyond me. What do you guys think?  image.jpg image.jpg DA505E62-AB03-46DD-9A6E-607924DBCDF3.jpeg 45D54F2A-D4AC-4902-88D7-C068262AAA05.jpeg 1D958F76-EF8B-43D7-8A40-1C085CBCD473.jpeg 5DA339B7-88E5-4FC8-996A-62F8115AE82D.jpeg 84ABB8A5-1194-4744-9BFB-C6F7E26F6D66.jpeg BA606574-F4F0-41CC-8F01-876B990AA53F.jpeg

Post

Back to the top
Depends on your abilities but def minor repairs compared to many (and mine was far worse even 20+ years ago).

You can get panels that fix the rear axle mounts and sills look like they need patching with decent welding not thes bird dropping previously used. Inside filler pipe gone from lack of use.

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

Post

Back to the top
6AB74B83-711A-4537-B79E-C0574D105EF9.jpeg Thanks for that. I was having a bit of a moment. It's just all so badly done! It was another garage that I paid to weld up the bits and obviously they've done me over. Such a poor job, it makes me so angry. 

I'm not going to give up on it, I don't have the skills to repair it yet but i think I can learn. I'm going to strip everything down to bare metal underneath I think, as it's just all falling apart. It's so easy to scrape everything off so I think it's all but done for now anyway! I had a little go this afternoon for 5 mins and it was really easy so get it off. I'm going to do another hour or so tonight as well.  604151CC-A968-4E24-9EF0-8CB9253980BE.jpeg

Post

Back to the top
Unless you're covering it straight away the shiney metal will start to rust. If it was me I would'nt take off anything except really loose stuff or where you're planning to weld

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

Post

Back to the top
Thanks for the advice .Yeah I was going to spray some etch primer over the top straight away to stop it rusting. It's literally just flying off at the moment. I don't think it's much good for anything if I'm honest. You can't really see in the photos as well but there are so many little patches of surface rust as well that if I just exposed the little bits I'd be left with about 20% of the under seal on it anyway! I'm not sure now! I'll scrape away tonight and won't go back to bare metal and see what I'm left with. 

Post

Back to the top
It was just too loose and flaking off in so many places that I decided to go back to bare metal. It was about 30mins work to get about 1/5 of the underneath done. The centre section where the exhaust runs looks a lot more solid, so I may end up leaving that bit and just raptor it. I put some rust converter on the rusty bits as well ready for some etch primer tomorrow morning. D3E6E5CB-B697-4722-9C79-813C7C6DB94C.jpeg 96EBE902-E3E9-4EB8-986E-D4CA24CFA3EE.jpeg 902B7495-7FFB-4388-9B80-103DA60E90BA.jpeg 5A8594BD-2A87-484F-9B1D-2F644FA7E855.jpeg

Post

Back to the top
Wow.

Looks like the patches of repair were just that, patches.

Oh well. Cut it out and replace it. I'd never welded before nor taken any classes or anything but a bit of youtube and talking to people helps. If you have a friend (like I do) who has welded before then they can also help by assisting with set up etc.

Thing is when you do you own you take your time and do it properly. When people are paid they do it as fast as possible.

Get some weld through primer and make sure you do the back of the bits you're welding in, otherwise it'll just rust from the back side out.

Bit by bit and gently, gently and you'll get there  :thumbs:

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

Post

Back to the top
Thanks Ian, that's great advice. Annoyingly I'm high risk so can't ask anyone for advice in person annoyingly as I have to stay in and be lonely. I shall probably be asking on the mig welding forum and on here as well for advice when the welder comes. Hopefully I'll get the hang of it and be able to do it. I did some lead welding about ten years ago and got to grips with that ok and I have done loads of soldering as well, obviously massively different to Mig welding but I reckon I'll get the hang of it. I guess it's just lots of little spot welds on car body work to save it from burning through? 

Post

Back to the top

ARC894Y

Bear in mind that primer is porous.
I would only clean back an areas at a time like, split the underside into 4 sections, clean back one section and get on with welding and completing that area before you move to the next 1/4.

It’s been badly welded to mot standards and down to a price - remember the garage would have had to charge you 10x the price for a well restored welding job.

If I were you I’d get professional help to begin with and learn from them before you tackle any yourself. Otherwise you could spend a lot of time and money and still have a mess at the end of it, people spend 3 - 4 years on apprenticeship to learn the skills for this sort of work, and there’s good reason for that!  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post

Back to the top
With regards to the wishbones the Febi ones don't seem great.

I purchased them last year and had them blasted straight away before having the seams all welded solid and the random holes filled in before fresh powdercoat in gloss black

Went from being a 30 quid replacement to more like a 70 quid replacement but worth the extra effort

Current rides:

2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer

IMG_20190803_123357.jpg

Post

Back to the top
Thanks guys, I've had another look at the original ones and may well be using them now instead.

As much as I would love to get someone else into to help me with this project and do the welding etc I'm shielding at the moment, so can't speak to anyone or take the car anywhere. I'll have to rely on books, YouTube and forums to get it done and get it done well. There will be certainly be redoing of bits that I've already attempted but I can't do it any other way unfortunately. I'll get there in the end! 

Started to strip the other side which is a lot more solid so I may end up just getting the under seal off and leaving the paint as is on the side as much as is possible anyway. I'll post some pics tonight when I'm done. 

Post

Back to the top
Ok so I stripped the under seal off of the spare wheel but didn't bare metal it on your guys advice. The i used a stripping disc on the bits of rust I could see and just bare metaled those bits. The put rust encapsulator on those bits. The rusty bits were prodded hard with a screwdriver to check their condition and they were all solid. My question is what am I now doing? Etch primering the whole wheel well or just the bits I've  bare metaled? Then epoxy the whole thing and raptor? Bit confused now it's not going back to bare metal? 

A19704E6-363B-49BA-A75C-733112A00CC9.jpeg DDDF293F-8DE7-4870-A83F-1FDFF5C2176E.jpeg

Post

Back to the top

ARC894Y

You do need to remove the black stuff, paint won’t stick to that as it’s a bitumen or similar based material which has anti corrosion properties but stays soft.

So, based on the wheel well I’m the image, first take a grinder to that welded patch to tidy that up, then P80 - P180 DA sand the area and de-grease, one light coat of acid based etch on the bare metalled areas, 10 mins flash off followed by a 2k primer or epoxy. once that’s fully cured, I would lightly sand or coarse scothbrite the area, de grease and reapply PU sealer where required. 24 hour cure that and then top cost in 2k.
Once that’s cured you can prep and apply to a stone chip or raptor. After that a bitumen based anti corrosion material - job done!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.