ARC894Y
Posted
Moderator
Project Corona
As for replacing bits. Stick to replacing rubber items and anything else that's worn. Anything big with surface rust only then blast and powder coat or etch prime and paint.
Check the bearings on items that you will be keeping as these are wear items.
Ian
Posted
Settled In
My plan now is to refurb the hub carriers and possibly the drive shafts although I'm not sure if I can be bothered to strip the cv joints and would rather renew the entire driveshafts. I think I'm just being really lazy though, so I'll have a think about it!
I Was going to strip the under seal off the bottom of the car today but looks like weather may be terrible all day so I'll have to do another job instead. Still trying to do at least one job a day.
I'm still unsure on exhaust, I'm really tempted by the non resonated Miltek but it might just be because of the brand reputation. Has anyone got any videos of their exhaust they can send me so I can hear what they are like or any suggestions? I'm used to my r8 exhaust which is really loud on start up and then gets quieter, I love it on start up but I'm disappointed when the valves close and it quietens down. It might just be my 17 year old inner child coming out but I love a loud exhaust!
Posted
Local Hero
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Settled In
I'd already started stripping the under seal on the inner wings so tonight I did most of the last wing and primered it. I'm going to attack the back arches in a different way and not go back to bare metal. The stone chip does need refreshing though. So I'll strip that off but Can anyone suggest a product that will go over the top of the solid stone chip?
Posted
Local Hero
There's nothing wrong with the Febi ones but if you compare them you will see the difference.
I've just fitted some FEBI ones to my car but I'm keeping the originals to clean up and repaint to re fit some time in the future.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Moderator
Deffo lag the new ones in lots of paint, especially in the inside if you can and if you have access to a welder might be worth welding the seams fully.
Ian
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Local Hero
You can get panels that fix the rear axle mounts and sills look like they need patching with decent welding not thes bird dropping previously used. Inside filler pipe gone from lack of use.
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Settled In
I'm not going to give up on it, I don't have the skills to repair it yet but i think I can learn. I'm going to strip everything down to bare metal underneath I think, as it's just all falling apart. It's so easy to scrape everything off so I think it's all but done for now anyway! I had a little go this afternoon for 5 mins and it was really easy so get it off. I'm going to do another hour or so tonight as well.
Posted
Local Hero
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Moderator
Looks like the patches of repair were just that, patches.
Oh well. Cut it out and replace it. I'd never welded before nor taken any classes or anything but a bit of youtube and talking to people helps. If you have a friend (like I do) who has welded before then they can also help by assisting with set up etc.
Thing is when you do you own you take your time and do it properly. When people are paid they do it as fast as possible.
Get some weld through primer and make sure you do the back of the bits you're welding in, otherwise it'll just rust from the back side out.
Bit by bit and gently, gently and you'll get there
Ian
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Old Timer
ARC894Y
I would only clean back an areas at a time like, split the underside into 4 sections, clean back one section and get on with welding and completing that area before you move to the next 1/4.
It’s been badly welded to mot standards and down to a price - remember the garage would have had to charge you 10x the price for a well restored welding job.
If I were you I’d get professional help to begin with and learn from them before you tackle any yourself. Otherwise you could spend a lot of time and money and still have a mess at the end of it, people spend 3 - 4 years on apprenticeship to learn the skills for this sort of work, and there’s good reason for that!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Old Timer
I purchased them last year and had them blasted straight away before having the seams all welded solid and the random holes filled in before fresh powdercoat in gloss black
Went from being a 30 quid replacement to more like a 70 quid replacement but worth the extra effort
Current rides:
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
2003 BMW 330d Manual Saloon Msport
1985 GTI cabriolet black edition (42k miles)
1999 Triumph Daytona 955i Post apocalyptic, rat, brat, scrambler, steam punk, cafe racer
Posted
Settled In
As much as I would love to get someone else into to help me with this project and do the welding etc I'm shielding at the moment, so can't speak to anyone or take the car anywhere. I'll have to rely on books, YouTube and forums to get it done and get it done well. There will be certainly be redoing of bits that I've already attempted but I can't do it any other way unfortunately. I'll get there in the end!
Started to strip the other side which is a lot more solid so I may end up just getting the under seal off and leaving the paint as is on the side as much as is possible anyway. I'll post some pics tonight when I'm done.
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Old Timer
ARC894Y
So, based on the wheel well I’m the image, first take a grinder to that welded patch to tidy that up, then P80 - P180 DA sand the area and de-grease, one light coat of acid based etch on the bare metalled areas, 10 mins flash off followed by a 2k primer or epoxy. once that’s fully cured, I would lightly sand or coarse scothbrite the area, de grease and reapply PU sealer where required. 24 hour cure that and then top cost in 2k.
Once that’s cured you can prep and apply to a stone chip or raptor. After that a bitumen based anti corrosion material - job done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.