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Project Corona

Thats the thing innit?

If the car is rusty enough to warrant taking it apart and putting it on a jig, then everything's gonna be rusty and a nightmare to get off.

Been there, done that, used all the swear words you did  :lol:

The mantra of 'it'll be worth it when it's done' must be repeated  :thumbs:

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Thanks Ian, I've calmed down a bit now! Getting the petrol tank off and front wishbones done today. Then it's just interior and it can go on the jig. 

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Be careful with the line that goes up into the rear wheel arch and connects to the fuel filler pipe. There's a valve thingy wedged up high in the inner wheel arch that's supposed to stop the flow of fuel in case of roll over.

The bracket it attaches to and the clips that hold the lines that go to it rust like hell. Make sure you know which line goes where. If you get it wrong when putting it back together then no fuel flows and you'll be scratching your head for ages trying to get the engine to run again.

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Great advice. Thanks. I'll label them up! 

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I didn't do that very well! The car is on the jig but it wasn't high enough initially so I had to use the engine hoist to get the car higher as all jacking points were not suitable. Got it higher and then realised it needs to be on the higher setting so I'll have to find some 2 by 6 and put that under the jack stands lower the car down on to the jack stands then move the cross bar up to the highest setting and then I should be ok. Only issue of course is that I don't think it will fit in the garage the right way up so after I've done work to the car I'll have to flip it upside down to store it every time! This is a far less than ideal situation! Never mind. I'll come up with a solution!  120E34B5-0E38-43CE-879C-94A86821675C.jpeg E9EE9E32-3179-49DE-8756-DEB2156D3FF0.jpeg D7CD435B-E69F-488B-ADF9-818A48C2388B.jpeg

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Oh the joys eh?

Ever wonder why we bother   :'(

I'm thinking R/C Cars might be the way forward  :lol:  :lol:

Ian

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Hahaha, I think you might be right. I've just decided this morning that I want to go to Wothersee next year so it's got to be finished by then. A few of my pals are coming along as well so it should be a once in a lifetime experience! Let's just hope I get it done by then! 

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70BC9D2B-4A76-466A-8C6F-6EBC3AAF9406.jpeg Had an hour spare and it was boiling so thought I'd try stripping the under seal to see how easily it came off. It was so hot that I came off really easy! I did about 1/100th of it, so now we are really getting somewhere. The underside was allot better than i thought it would be which is great. Few bits of rust and one patch I've seen that leaves a lot to be desired. Will get it flipped halfway tomorrow then i can really get to it and make it lovely and shiny before under seal goes on. Anyone got any brands they use? Was going to etch primer, epoxy primer and the. Raptor the bottom, anyone got any other suggestions?  7BB6EEB8-7CB7-476A-8EAD-53925508F053.jpeg 06459EC3-588B-4383-B94C-CFDD2B02127F.jpeg 50013CB7-54E4-4236-A2D7-6B22C05416E7.jpeg

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So what's going on with your fuel lines? They seem to be joined with rubber hose and jubilee clips… if you are going to be running a k-jet fuel injection they might leak..?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Not running k jet anymore, but even so i saw that and was so annoyed. I paid a garage to replace the fuel lines as he said they were rotten, which I could well believe, this was about ten years ago and this is the job that he did! It doesn't matter as its all being ripped out and re run but rediculously poor work! Never mind I'm happy it's all being redone though.

Got some parts going to the powdercoaters at the weekend. Fuel tank, rear beam and loads of little brackets and bits. 

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A garage charged you money for workmanship like that on fuel lines.. WTH are they thinking… I'm thinking fire hazard..

Getting rid is the best plan  :thumbs: .
 Loving the build thread so please keep going and update on your progress, it can be a slog some days but it will all be worth it in the end.  :cool:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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I know, it's crazy! And I actually paid money for that work as well! I was about 20 at the time it was done and didn't know much about anything. I will always check to see what's been done now, if I ever gave it to a garage which is highly unlikely these days. 


Thanks very much for the kind words. I've been promising to do this for over a decade and for one reason or another just haven't got round to it. I'm determined to get it finished and back up to it's former glory. 

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10 years is nothing! Mine has been a work in progress for 23 years!
Interested to see how this comes on - you'll probably finish before me. Keep at it!

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Thanks Paceman, can't wait to get cracking again today have to wait until this evening as I'm home schooling the kids today. Need to get the fuel tank off and the rear axle stripped ready for the powdercoater to pick up tomorrow! Fingers crossed it doesn't take me all night due to rusted bolts! 

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Woof! Started badly and simply got worse and worse. Quite rediculous really. I turned a nut holding the straps down the wrong way and before I realised rounded it. Great start had to hammer on a 12mm socket over the nut and then thankfully managed to get it off! Everything else was rusty and horrible but I got there in the end. Under the fuel tank is looking pretty clean which I'm really happy about! Just need to strip the rear beam and then it's powder coat city. Managed to sneak out of mummy and daddy school to get it done in 45 mins!   89979D1B-95B5-4AD4-9F9F-33BC39F284A8.jpeg D87264D4-47B7-4D8D-A578-68534F0EF696.jpeg

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Got all of the bits ready for the powdercoaters tomorrow, thankfully! It felt like a bit of a slog today! Got the suspension and wishbones off as well. It's finally looking a bit cleaner at the front now which is a bit of a result. Looking forward to flipping the car and getting the underneath back to bare metal tomorrow. 

Looking for some advice as well, I'm getting new suspension, new discs and pads, new driveshafts, new everything, should I re-use the front hub carriers or try and get some new ones? I'll obviously refurb the existing if I do keep them but if I'm getting new everything else Should i just go the distance and get everything? Thoughts please? F6F1E003-A310-4440-9FA0-7C098E9A613D.jpeg 8572EE14-B0CE-4C8B-993D-7CDA70C6F559.jpeg 041FC532-87F0-4D4E-98A9-0C5138299171.jpeg A2598571-19CE-4318-A89D-AD174133B6DF.jpeg 83C07D03-59A1-40C6-9341-ABC96B76F4E8.jpeg

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I'm not the man to ask. On my project, if it wasn't broken and could be cleaned up, that's what I've done. Partly because I'm a cheap skate and secondly I like the thought that most of the car is still original. Horses for courses I guess.
To be honest, if you got them blasted and painted up then they'd look like new anyway. They are just big lumps of iron.
Can you get new ones?!

I like the sneaking out of being teacher. I'm doing that all the time!

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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I would keep and refurb everything you can, because a lot of new non oe parts for sale these days are very inferior quality. Blast and powder coat is the way forward !!!

Great work, keep it up!

My opinion (for what it's worth) on the bodywork, keep the rain tray.
Only remove the paint where there's rust - the reason these cars have survived as well as they have is the phosphating/zinc coating/e-coating done at manufacture, and nothing we can do is anywhere near as good for corrosion protection.

Don't make the common mistake of sanding everything to bare metal - waste of time and detrimental to the car.

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Agree with the above, reuse the reusable and if its a ball-ache removing paint and underseal….. it's because it's stuck perfectly and doesnt' need to be removed.


1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Thanks guys. Great advice. To be honest the under seal is in such poor condition that it's just flaking off. I used the jet washer on it yesterday for 30 seconds just to see what it would do and it was flying off no problem so it definitely needs to be redone. Should I not go back to bare metal with it though and leave the paint covering underneath do you think? 
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