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Had to sorn my golf

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hi cedar said just do it yourself it aint rocket science mate basic engine to many it could or maybe know
one can answer the problem apart the person who
takes it apart but do not believe all you are told by
third parties mate
good luck regards Paul

Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible

1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF

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Had to sorn my golf

Ok ceder thanks for the input .and thanks nicci paul i suppose its just a confidence issue rather thsn a skill issue .i was the same before i did the cambelt and that went great. With all the madness around about corona virus ive been a bit sidetracked. Got 4 young children that are off school from today for God knows how long. So il give it my full attention as summer comes .but if we are on lockdown might be good to pass the time lol

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Sorry to add in my 2p worth, I mean no offence to anyone. When installing a new head gasket there are specific sequences to tighten the head bolts and specific stages of torque. I find general mechanics tend to have a set way of doing it for all cars (without refering to the manual), but all cars are different in tightening up the head. Providing the engine has never overheated, head has been skimmed and damage free, the new gasket has only been installed once with new head bolts, and tightened as per the Haynes manual, there shouldn't be an issue. Best to do a compression test to establish between which pistons the defect is……these old VW engines are fairly simple to work on….. definitely get the brown Haynes manual….I always use it religiously

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Had to sorn my golf

Its ok Brinz input was what i was after when i first made the post .i have a brown Haynes manual firstly so thats good .im just going to take my time and follow it to the letter replacing the necessary parts as i go .il let everyone know my findings when i get around to doing it ok mate

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Also the head gasket set and bolts,  get  a good brand….may cost a bit more but worth it. I prefer GSF over Eurocarparts for quality. Good luck and keep us posted.

Plus worth replacing valve stem seals, camshaft seals etc and lapping the valves (make sure you mark position of each valve with some tippex and ensure you don't mix the valve positions up as they are all individually set in each position over time)….the complete head kit should include that.

Last edit: by BRINZ

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Had to sorn my golf

Ok brinz thanks for the tips and the help Regards Dean

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Had to sorn my golf

Just a quick update .ive been storing my sorned golf in the garage under what i thought was a breathable cover .but it started smelling a little damp. So these past 2 days ive rolled it outside a few feet and left it in the sun boot open doors windows etc all day drying it out …tonight i couldn't roll it back in .as there is a slight hill up to the garage. So thought il just start it its only 5 feet will be fine even though the head gasket has gone .wow so wrong again !! All i can describe is an oil explosion came from the engine and it dropped its guts all over the floor .?? Oil on the underside of the bonnet when i lifted it oil all over the engine battery plugs leads gearbox everywhere no joke .cant spot anything obvious no big holes anywhere..cant see anything blown .what i want to know is,,   have i just gone from a blown cylinder head gasket to a blown engine??? Any insight would be much appreciated Regards Dean

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Did you use the correct grade oil? Thicker oil could cause issues.

Check condition of oil filter.

Also worth checking the breather pipes for any blockage and pressure relief valve (oil filter housing) as well.

Last edit: by BRINZ

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Had to sorn my golf

Triple qx 10w40 what ive always used ?? Done 16k over 2 years always the same oil .change every 2k ?

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As per Brinz, a rare issue is the oil relief valve seizeing. Its part of the oilpump(?) and controls oil pressure, when cold its open so the thick oil can circulate round the engine and when the oil warms and thins it closes and maintains pressure. Its not unknown to either stick open and give minimal pressure when warm or stick closed and blow oil out everywhere when cold.

Or the HG is that far gone that pressure from the cylinders is getting into the oil system and doing the same?

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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oh and hows the Honda?

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Had to sorn my golf

Ok guys im listening, but if its the oil relief valve where does it blow the oil from ?? I cant actually see how it got out of the engine ??? And the honda runs like a watch honestly ,,ive had an type r ep3 k20a in the past and that was the same

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Deano777 said

Ok guys im listening, but if its the oil relief valve where does it blow the oil from ?? I cant actually see how it got out of the engine ??? And the honda runs like a watch honestly ,,ive had an type r ep3 k20a in the past and that was the same

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Both crank seals (cambelt end/flywheel end) but doubt that would instantly blast all over the engine bay. Oil filter/housing or oil pressure switch would spray everywhere

oh and owning a VW is like religion, you have to believe in it to make it work….or buy a Honda


1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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The oil pressure relief valve is part of the oil pump assembly.  It is internal to the engine and located in the pump housing.  If the pump pressure gets to high it opens and allows the oil back into the pan hence you can see it.  If it gets gummy or sucks up crud from the pan it can stick partially or full open and allow no oil pressure in the engine as it is just sucking it out of the pan and places it back in the pan.


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Following brinz comment about the PRV being at the filter housing I did a bit of digging. According to this diagram there is a by-pass there but the pressure relief valve is in the pump. Either being stuck would cause problems

lube-schematic.jpg

 

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Diagram showing oil filter housing by-pass/valve. I think when oil is cold and thick it doesnt go through the filter. The treacle thick oil wouldn't filter through the paper element inside the filter and crush it or blow off the filter…

oilhousing.jpeg

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Straight from Haynes manual if any help

IMG_20200328_133358.jpg IMG_20200328_133402.jpg

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I'm not sure but if the crankcase is getting pressurised  could the oil be coming out of the di[pstick tube.
You can ponder this for ever but there's an easy way to find out, top it up with oil and start it up again with the bonnet open.

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Had to sorn my golf

Thankyou all for the diagrams and and the explanations .early 1800 you said its like religion you have to believe to make it work haha .i do believe.. i believe that it doesn't like me ……i am thinking at this time is engine out easier .if the main seals have gone ? If its just the pressure relief valve is it just sump off.? Seriously thinking of just engine out and doing the whole engine properly .could tidy up the bay while its out ??? Bloody car ..i should have just neglected it .the more love and money ive lavished on it the more .abuse its given in return @#$%%^&^$@

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I don't think you need to do all that, you have to find out where the oil is coming from, start it up with the oil filler cap off and see what happens.



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