Oh dear wont start

On a Mk1 Golf there's a few known issues relating to the braking:

1) the rear drums have auto adjusters, relying on a ratchet mechanism to allow the rear shoes to return to an "at rest" position very close to the drums. However over time the teeth wear, and/or the ratchet seizes up leaving too much brake travel. Its difficult but sometimes possible to "persuade" the auto adjuster into the correct position to give decent (short travel) brakes again, but its difficult and relies on setting it by poking some kind of tool through a wheel bolt hole.

The Mk1 Golf is quite light, it doesn't really need rear discs but if they are fitted they often have some other kind of mechanism to auto-adjust which is much better and resolves this issue. But because its light, you need to make sure the rear brakes aren't overpowering and causing rear-wheel lockups etc on heavy braking, ie braking is still balanced front-rear. Remember, no ABS etc unlike modern cars!

2) The RHD still has the servo/master cylinder on the left, and this flexes a little, leading to vague brakes. I belive the LHD is better but I've not driven one. There's no easy solution to this one, yes you can resolve it eg by using custom components such as a custom MC on the right, etc etc

One solution which helps with brakes is a larger servo and master cylinder - for example the components off a Mk2 16V, suitably modified and adapted to the Mk1. If you're happy going down the modified route, this is a good place to start (once the auto adjusters have been addressed).

Clippers had softer suspension than the GTI, they do roll a bit more. And of course if dampers are old and/or original, that won't help either. It might just need new dampers, or it might be that even the stock Mk1 Clipper suspension is perceived as too soft and roll is too much.

Check if it has anti-roll bars front and rear - I think by that time the later cabbys got them, earlier cars didn't though.

You can obviously upgrade to coilovers or lowered suspension, but that's just the corners and you'd need to think about anti-roll bar(s) if your car doesn't have them (or has the original, non-GTI front one). Also there's a lot of rubbish out there with cheap aftermarket suspension so its worth spending a bit more on quality stuff and also if running coilovers, not lowering it too much because that will be uncomfortable and less good handling too. Also don't forget you'll need the front wheels aligned after any suspension work or ride height change.

paul_c said

Is it manual or auto?

 Its an uto Paul

paul_c said

On a Mk1 Golf there's a few known issues relating to the braking:

1) the rear drums have auto adjusters, relying on a ratchet mechanism to allow the rear shoes to return to an "at rest" position very close to the drums. However over time the teeth wear, and/or the ratchet seizes up leaving too much brake travel. Its difficult but sometimes possible to "persuade" the auto adjuster into the correct position to give decent (short travel) brakes again, but its difficult and relies on setting it by poking some kind of tool through a wheel bolt hole.

The Mk1 Golf is quite light, it doesn't really need rear discs but if they are fitted they often have some other kind of mechanism to auto-adjust which is much better and resolves this issue. But because its light, you need to make sure the rear brakes aren't overpowering and causing rear-wheel lockups etc on heavy braking, ie braking is still balanced front-rear. Remember, no ABS etc unlike modern cars!

2) The RHD still has the servo/master cylinder on the left, and this flexes a little, leading to vague brakes. I belive the LHD is better but I've not driven one. There's no easy solution to this one, yes you can resolve it eg by using custom components such as a custom MC on the right, etc etc

One solution which helps with brakes is a larger servo and master cylinder - for example the components off a Mk2 16V, suitably modified and adapted to the Mk1. If you're happy going down the modified route, this is a good place to start (once the auto adjusters have been addressed).

Thanks paul Very helpfull, have you any information relating to the rear auto adjusters ?

Its a wedge, the best thing would be to remove the rear drum and take a good look at it (and clean up the area, inspect the pads/drum etc too). If worn, it would be worth removing the lip on the drum, which is probably rusty too. This way, you could manually adjust quite close (by putting the wedge into a position with eg pliers) then get the drum back on okay.

Once you've had a good look with the drum off, you'll realise that with a torch and a thin tool eg small screwdriver or bradawl, you could adjust the wedge a click or two closer still, through a wheel bolt hole. But its a PITA!!!

Hopefully someone has pics, or could redirect you to a previous thread since this is bound to have come up before.

Fantastic lads, some great stuff there.

Roll on the weekend…… i suspect that the front brakes will need to be replaced, not sure  how i can clarify if the master cylinder is working, any advice would be helpfull.

I think i will make a purchase for new brakes all round, wheres the best place to buy from guys?

Hi guys quick update purchased these on shpock for £30 what you  think?? i will give these a new lease of life over the winter

If they fit, that's a bargain!

If you are looking at the rears, on a new to me car, I usually replace the rear shoes,  wheel cylinder,  Drum if needed as well as the bearings.  Some times the parking brake cable that way when I button it up, I am done with it for a few years.

If the rims are 4X100 they will fit if the center bore is correct as well 57.1mm.

okmate said

as promised guys

 Well done some testing today as i really didn't like the way the wiring was just hanging to that relay, once i disconnected it the car wouldn't start' when looking closer i can see that they have cut the original starter wire and bypassed it through the relay, i'm sure ive read somewhere about dodgy
original starters that play up, may be this was a fix, ive decided to re solder the wires and tidy the terminals up, before dressing in the cables so there water proof, i'm pretty please now