4dr Scrap car going full restore + 3,2 24V engine

Bodyshops are the bane of my life.
The times customers have cancelled getting hood replaced because the cars not ready as promised.
They take too much work on, strip the car so you’re reluctant to take it elsewhere.
You’re kind of held hostage.
They just push my schedule by months and years even.


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Liking the colour, fan of green lantern? more pics of the paint in the light

Strange that the paint guy doesn't want to finish the bonnet and doors. Did he not have them when they were at the body shop. Surely he should've done them at the same time as spraying the body.

Your recaros and lightened flywheel look ace. Wish I had done that but will probably upgrade the gearbox at some point.

Keep up the good work

It should be a original Lofoten Green color

The doors and hatchet is on standby for now. Now I will assembled the body

Started with sound deadening, would you guys say it is enough on the roof or should i give it all over the place ? The same with floor and front?

Also painted alot of small bits and pieces together with the inlet manifold..

Next up is the tank and rear wiring to hide in the roof.

Yeah I really like the colour. Never seen it before.  

After running my noisy G60 I found the noise and heat was coming from the front bulkhead and around all the wheel tubs. front and rear. Floor and roof is also worth doing and rear bench to quieten the fuel pump.

 I have this sound mat I'm placing over the top of it.

Mass loaded vinyl with a closed cell top. It's about 12mm. It made a massive difference to noise when used in my brothers Gti.

Really good site on sound insulation:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

It has the MLV & CCF that Rich mentions.

the_whip said

Really good site on sound insulation:
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

It has the MLV & CCF that Rich mentions.

Thank you for the information.

I looks like a more complicated job than first anticipated As I understand it it must not be directly on hard surfaces, so they put it on with velcro ? Sounds like a big job on complicated areas, souch as bulkhead ?

I have a local dealer who sells StP and some dynamat stuff. How would these compare to that MLV and CCF ? StP Biplast and Dynamat Dynaliner? I believe these are supposed to go on top of the Butyl.

I don’t think you need to do it full-on like they did. Most people seem to just chuck a load of Dynamat down and call it a day.

I’m no expert, but from my understanding:

“CLD tiles” is just a generic name for Dynamat like materials. It’s interesting that they say you only need 25% coverage as it is a vibration damper not a sound absorber.

“CCF” is just closed cell foam. Easy to find on eBay/Amazon.

“MLV” mass loaded vinyl is the dense material which (when decoupled with the CCF) reduces most noise.

Dodo do a combination of CCF and MLV which looks easier to use. I haven’t looked into StP or Dynaliner. I imagine they serve the same purpose. I guess as long as you have the butyl layer and the mass layer with the foam in-between, it’s much the same.

The holes in the bulk head will be a pain, but I’m more worried about the strong curves in the wheel arches. I’m not really sure why they use Velcro. I can’t see myself moving it very often. Perhaps it supports the weight of the MLV better than the foam would?

I’m doing mine this coming week (if I ever finish cleaning the floor) so I’ll let you know how I get on.

At least you don’t have to worry about the extra weight slowing you down 

Hummel what size battery are you running chap?

Did you go for a R32 sized battery or mk1 based battery? Will you mount it in the wheel tub?

I've got an Odyssey 25 but think it might be a bit light on power for what I want.
 

Rich. I bought almost the biggest I could find since I wanted it placed in the trunk (wheel tub) I feared to much voltage drop in the cabling.

Went for a 80Ah / 800A and I have no starter problems at all, I maybe try I lighter version at some point, just to drop a few kilos, but for now this works perfect.

Ah cheers chap. I've ordered up an AGM 096 today and a tray to mount it on

I guess I will need to make a slightly raised false floor as the spare wheel tub depth is 160mm. A bit of wood work no problem

Nice work on your car Hummel.
What are you running as engine and gearbox support?
Do you made you wiring yourself?
Cheers

Bergie64 said

Nice work on your car Hummel.
What are you running as engine and gearbox support?
Do you made you wiring yourself?
Cheers

Thank you Bergie. I'm using the kit from Eurowise.

And yes I did all the wiring myself

Hummel said

Bergie64 said

Nice work on your car Hummel.
What are you running as engine and gearbox support?
Do you made you wiring yourself?
Cheers

Thank you Bergie. I'm using the kit from Eurowise.

And yes I did all the wiring myself

A lot of people use eurowise kit more than the epytec one.
What fusebox are you using? CE1 OR CE2 fusebox? I'm makingva r32 conversion aswell into my mk1 scirocco so I take some info where i can.
Already work on the wiring but not finish it i'm at the begining of the conversion!

Im using the stock fusebox from the mk1, and made my own with additinal fuses for engine. Jut bought a cheap fusebox and glued a OBD conection on the side basically

Little update, slow progress in these times with kids home at home office it is quite hard to find time for the car.

Had a serious talk with the paint shop and it seems like they now will paint the hatches and doors, lets hope they meant it

Finish the first layer of vibration damping, and a second layer of noise isolation (5mm foam ) Now my plan was to install steering colum, heater and then give it a third layer of foam, maybe something else? And what do you guys think of mounting steering coloum on top of the damping ? Or should i remove the foam layer, I am i doubt.





Also "glued" two layer of sound isolation in the inner wheel archs and sprayed a layer of sounddamping in the bottom. Hopefully the csr will be driveable without earphones





Mounted fuel tank with pump inside and fuelfilter with regulator as well, easy and clean setup with only one line forward.



And brake lines and regulator two the rear axel installed as well.



So now I started wiring Headlamps and main power will be in the fenders, and rear lights will be in the roof, so hopefully we end up with a pretty clean car



Oh another one for you: What would you sound damping the roof with ? The layer of vibration daming and some foam based egg crated noise cenceling ? Or what do you think ?  

Looking good chap  

Are you going to run without any fuel surge protection?

What have you fitted in your tank. Very intrigued

You're not using mass loaded vinyl?

Rich. said

Looking good chap  

Are you going to run without any fuel surge protection?

What have you fitted in your tank. Very intrigued

I fitted the original Pump from a mk5 golf ,just pulled it out from the stock tank and fitted it on a welded bracket under the fuel level sender, It works And no surge protection, Ideally I could weld in some plates or something in the tank, but that will be in another tank, this work perfect for the road and with the tank full of at least 1/4 full I can't feel any surge..

the_whip said

You're not using mass loaded vinyl?

No, not yet at least, I can't find any in the local shops, and the company who sells car audio and damping doens't have any mas loaded vinyl, but at load of STP stuff, and i'm unsure what to use.

Would you suggest a layer of MLV on top of my foam ?

I don't want to give you advice as I am only going on what I have read, but the science seems to make sense…

A heavy object attached to the metal would pass the sound on, but because it is decoupled by the foam it can move and absorb the sound energy. Some of things I have read say that the foam does nothing on its own, but some methods just use foam I can tell you this: it's bloody heavy and a pain in the butt to fit behind the fuse box. I envy you your blank canvas.