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Best way to Descale water pipe connections?

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Systems already drained

No, you insert the tube and Spray until the pattern cones. Just like the thread shows you.

For Electric injectors I use a 9vDC battery to pick the things then spray MAF cleaner through them…. That works great for the Digifants injectors.  

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Bri check previous post please buddy, price seems to good to be true lol

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Can't tell you they are correct as I am a CIS novice.
Digifart I am fairly good at CIS not so much

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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They are the correct part I just wondered if you had heard of retailer as they are your side of the pond 

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There are plenty over here, Napa, O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Rockauto.com, autohausaz.com, partsplaceinc.com and that is off the of of my head, there are others I suppose

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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How can they be 10 times the price over here really! Shocking 

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ordered them from the states, no wonder the one was glued i place they are ridiculously expensive over here!

cheaper to buy 6 tho so have two spares if you ever see anyone in need of them!

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FE6F5B41-849F-4D99-A91C-AEB5AA129AEF.jpeg 50% success 50% ar$e!

So we drilled first bolt, tried use extractor and the damn thing snapped!

Left that bolt and 'simply' drilled and re threaded the other.

I've now used 8 cobalt bits to try get through the snapped harderned extractor. Going to be a long process!

Have ordered some carbide bits to see if that helps!

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What a nightmare.. When I drilled mine we had to use some cooling lubricant to help save the dill bit.

Something like this.

https://www.toolstation.com/cutting-drilling-cooling-lubricant/p75018

Tape up the water outlet as you don't want any metal swarf getting in there.
Not telling you "how to suck eggs"  :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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That is why I recommended Left Handed Drill bits, and a reversible drill. (reversible hammer drills are actually a tad better).

The reversible drill (smaller diameter than the bolt) will cut the metal out, and then bind.  The Drilling action heats the metal of the bolt and the hammering action breaks the corrosion (differential metallic electrolysis)
bond and the Screw/Bolt will back out.  Spraying the area with a Penetrant oil for a day to 2 before, helps a ton.

I have over the years broken many a bolt extractor, you have to remember that by drilling out the center and inserting the extractors, you are causing it to bind in to the bolt and expand it to make it tighter to the hole you are trying to extract it from.

For me the last time I ever tried to use an extractor was on a Lug bolt, that a wheel dealer installed with a SAE socket and rounded it.  When I tried the extractor it broke.  The Saving grace for me was that I could take the drum off, and drill it from the back side, to the end of the broken "Easy Out"…. and Punch the easy out clear.

My Father who was watching all the shenanigans of a Peaved off Red Headed Left Handed American of Irish distraction,… said, "Hey why don't you try drilling it from the back side"…. About 2 minutes later the first of the 2 rounded bolts were out,  3 minutes later, the second bolt was out.  Drilling from the back was the same as using a left handed bit from the front, and back then 1981 left handed bits weren't as common of a thing as they are now.  His reckoning was that the drill was operating in the same direction as removing the bolt, from the back
I was loosening the bolt….. Worked like a champ actually, and after that I found a set of Left-Handed bits that were for machinists, that cost a pretty penny back them..been using them ever since…no more "easy-outs" for me.

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Mark we have been but we had been applying some heat so removed it before that pic, cheers tho

Reading up on net it looks like the only way to tackle the bolt extractor is a Dremel and patience now. 

Ordered a right angle attachment and will update results! 

Steer clear of bolt extractors for small diameters! 

Heinsight is a wonderful thing briano lol 😂 

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Do you think you could weld a bolt to it? Just a thought.
 

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Could of before we grinder them off for drilling lol

Been at it tonight and the dremel ate the hardened steel, ready for drilling and tapping tomoz night. 

If anyone ever asks about snapped extractors, dremel is the way! E443ADC1-9543-4FD8-94DA-589BE9C9B5A9.jpeg

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That's what I said " weld a nut to it". It's stuck in due to electrolytic corrosion and the heat of the welding might of broke it loose. The trouble now is if he has used a tapered screw extractor, it will of tightened the bolt up even more. Best bet now is to use a grinding bit or 20 in a Dremel to remove just the screw extractor. Then weld in the hole to build it up, the weld a nut onto it. Shock it with a hammer, penetrating fluid and once cracked loosen backward and forwards. If the threads are toast due to corrosion, helicoil it.

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Good effort!! I can imagine you were getting a bit p*ssed off with that!

I reckon you'll need some gasket sealant as well as the o-ring when you fit the new outlet as looking at the grinding marks, the face on the head isn't going to be as even as it should be.

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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yea deffo need sealent, will smooth it off a bit better than that as i realise its very crude

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On all steel bolts going into Aluminum, Never-Seize is going to be your Friend.

I have had very good luck with using an Epoxy on clean metal where gouges were present.  Clean it good Prep the area with a cleaner solvent.

Use a Digital scale to get a 50-50 mix of epoxy resin to hardener, then apply with a bondo scraper. Knock off any high areas when it gets tacky.  Allow 24-48 hours to full cure then sand it smooth.

JB-Weld Full Strength or one of those Putty types works well.



What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Back to the top
image.jpg Thank god for that!! All from
The tiniest of water leaks! 

I know the bolts are wrong way round,  it's coming back off once I've picked some gasket sealant up anyways but light end of tunnel and all that!

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Yeah.. well done, what a pain in the behind it's been… I hate seized/rusty bolts and nuts as they always makes a 5 minute job a day long job…

I smear copper grease on all my bolts and nuts to stop them rusting etc but I expect that stud has been in the head since the car was made…

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Yea I've greased them and just used gasket sealant 👍🏼

Bolts are right way round, dunno what I was harping on about 😂😂

Will finish off after work tomoz


Question about rocker gasket, bought same as before (cork) conflicting info, oil it or grease it?
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