new to me 1992 golf Cabriolet

That hexagon part that drives the speedo is on the cable



Here is what the speedo side should look like.


If your speedo side is broken then a new clock may be in order.

Thats what i am saying. The hexagon drive part is broken off and stuck in the receiver of the speedometer. There is also glue stuck in there from when the PO glued the speedo drive cable in the receiver. How do i get glue and broken piece out. Can the receiver part be replaced?

Very carefully use of dental picks hemostats forceps and possible acetone to soften the glue, but remember Acetone melts plastic….

Not sure why you mention plastic . Its a metal sleeve and a metal hexagon drive inside of it

Because everything around that part is plastic, and Acetone is the main ingredient in most hobby glues as it melts plastic and can weld it prior to evaporating... Kind of like Brake-Kleen...... so be careful when using.

Can that part be replaced? Even if i melt the glue, i would still have to get the shaft fragment out. Qhat if i take that piece off of the apare cluster i have? And by doing that avoid all the acetone

If you have a spare cluster, I would say take that one apart, spin the mileage numbers to match your and be done with it.

Sorry for the blurry pic but here is what a MMO speedo looks like internally.





It would be easier and less chance of breakage to replace it.
IIRC as it has been a while since I have one stripped that far because the reset button (trip) broke on mine that I replaced the Clocks.  The speed assembly is held in place by a couple of screws so it is possible that you could remove your spare and place it on yours….

But (always a but) you also risk breaking your spare in taking it apart.  The MMO Reset button is one piece and easily breaks. Different design than the VDO speedo where the VDO reset button is 2 piece and easily replaced.

Oh wow i see now . That piece is the entire assembly carriage. Youre right , its eqsier to just swap it. Mileage is slightly higher on the spare. The car is so old . It really doesn't matter if it is a bit more.

I doth believe that the light is breaking through the clouds in your cranium…. 

Wow you respond to my post faster than I can have my morning cup of Joe and a Smoke.

Getting the cluster apart is a good exercise in Patience, Perserverance, and a steady hand.

In the where are my links tag in my signature I have a how do I get this apart thread.

Take great care in manhandleing the mylar, it is old, fragile and doesn't take kindly to rough handling.

 

The LED was a good upgrade , next I want to figure out what that spare vacuum hose is. Could be from a cruise control that is not there anymore?
I also need to get to fix the convertible top. Thats probably going to be a big PIA

Pictures say more than words. I mean on my daughters 85 Honda there were hundreds of them, the Cabby not so many…

If you don't want to tackle the top, which is a right of passage for folks give Chortle a shout if you are in the UK.

The small throttle butterfly keeps aticking slightly open raising the rpm above 2000 rpm insteqd of ~700 i sprayed it with throttle cleaner qnd it almost made it worse . Any hints on that? 

Spray it and clean the innards of the throttle body.  I use WD-40 and spray the entire spring assembly, then work it, respray, work it.  I also do the butterfly in the tb.

Be aware that there is an adjustment so the butterfly doesn't fully close it is partially opened a RCH or so.

It could also be a Throttle cable that needs lubing as well.

It the Idle bypass screw (back of the throttle body next to firewall) is easy to turn with your fingers the o-ring is bad and that is a vacuum leak.  

Count the turns to remove it and run to your local good hardware store and get a replacement o-ring.  Wrap the Threads and Threads only of the screw with Yellow Teflon Tape and return it to the count it took to remove it.

 I bought a new gasket a while back . I turned in the screw but i dont know how much it needs to be in in order to be adjusted properly.  The Previous Owner was a prick, who messed up the entire engine.
When the Idle RPM is too high I can push back on this little bar and it will lower the RPM. If I spray it and exercise the lever it will go down by itself, but that works only for a little while,. Then it starts to stick again.

That is the adjuster or throttle lever for the Cruise control.

It is probably gummed up, and you may have to remove the entire assembly to get it free.

The Bentley on section 5-54 through 5-56 describe the Throttle body, and the setting of the throttlebody stop.
It could be that it is all gummy or that some one has moved the Idle stop screw and repositioned the idle position switch.  The idle position switch is set so that when the butterfly is not at rest the switch picks to tell the ECU that the butterfly is open.  The  idle position switch clicks when you barely move the accel cable, you hear it. if you don't hear the click or it comes to late you can hear/feel it.

Folks confuse the Idle stop screw as an idle adjust which it isn't.  the Idles Stop is just that it stops the butterfly from fully closing Sealing the throttlebody
This isn't supposed to happen the Throttle body can stick closed Choking the car.  

Unlike carbed cars on EFI you don't mash the gas 3 times prior to start to set the choke.  You turn the key, wait 4-5 seconds, then start the car.

If a EFI gets flooded which can happen if you don't wait the 4-5 seconds prior to start they are a bear to get started…..

If you go the Dissasemble and clean mode, take pictures of everything.

It seems that it sticks sometimes a bit, sometimes not at all and sometimes a lot. All during one drive. I am starting to wonder if there is a heat shielding, that is supposed to be under the assembly? Seems that it jams more when it gets warm or hot. 
Ill get it out today and aee whats up . Clean and lube with grease.

Ok the throttle seems to work now more in a desirable fashion. It must have been sticking for a while, because the previous owner had bought a new (too short) throttle cable , that was never installed. Due to the stickiness, the engine was rocking more when the throttle got unstuck. And I think that was not very kind to the motor mounts. I have replaced the transmission mount, as it was ripped. I saw the front mount doesn't look any better. I ordered left and right mount as well. I read that they are a challenge to replace. Are there some hints that make it easier? I read the elaborate walkthrough on cabby-info. Is there a particular sequence I should do this in?
thanks for the help, as always

The right side mount is a bear… A sawzall is helpful to cut it out and only the mount not the bracket. Same for the left side tranny mount a real MOTHER….

May I suggest that you plan on doing the following when you replace the right side mount.
The rear two Allens that you have to remove can be replaced with grade10 hex bolts the same pitch and length.  They are easier to install and remove than fussing with the Allen.

You will need to have the new one pressed in (easiest),
Or you can beat it in with the appropriate wheel bearing adapters, whether you press or Hammer it in it is best to Freeze it in the Fridge for a couple of days and only remove it when you are ready for it not when you are taking the old one out.

I would also suggest that at the same time you replace the waterpump, and the timing belt, and tensioner if you don't know the age as you have to take all the stuff off to replace the timing belt. so might as well get it all done at one time.  Figure 3-5 hours on the motormount and water pump the first time.  I have a how to on the waterpump…. That is only like an hour and a half…

Timing belt and all total a good weekender project, and for gods sake get the car in time prior to doing the belt.
Don't use the Pulley marks follow the guide in Cabby-info.com….

I have done timing belts in about 1 hour, but then I have put in a few.

Motor mounts are about 1.5 to two hours for me, but then I have a press and a variety of wheel bearing adapters and can beat it in almost quicker than I can press it in.

Pulley marks are usually slightly off from stretching of the belt. 
My waterpump has a slight leak, I noticed. So I think, changing it is a good idea. Timing belt prolly , too.
Its just such a convoluted PIA, doing it all at once.
Good advise on the hex bolts and ill give that sawsall a whirl, too.
Ill call the jumk yard. They got 3 cabbys witj k-jet injection. The motor mount brackets should be the same, right?

Yes

To add a little more time to your right side motor mount cut a section of rubber off of the one you take out.

Add it to the top of the mount.
If you notice the mount center as a pointed end and a rounded end.  The point goes up.