another radiator/coolant leak

Alternator belt should be 950mm x 10mm.

It looks like your water pump is very slightly to far to the right, there is sometime as little movement when fitting the pumps, try loosening the bolts a little and pushing the pump to the left so the belt misses the cover and straight to the alternator or perhaps a little spacer behind the metal cog which the belt fits in and the water pump to push it out to the left?

The noise in your video is a alternator belt slipping, new belts do need re tightening after they have been on for a week or so.

Well this is a bit embarrassing…

Sniff test today showed neutral blue testing fluid turning a yellow colour. Head gasket which I had been warned of. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Frustrating given how well the car runs; but also explains a lot including the cold air blowing, sauna cabin, constant leaks and sitting pressure. Plus side is it's caught before serious damage.

I'll get the pump, belts, and cover alignment sorted another time. 

Any recommendations in the West Midlands for head skim & port polish too (before new gasket & head bolts)??
An idea of what I should expect to pay would be helpful too.


Thanks 

Glove test is just as effective and cheaper. You may not need to have the head planed, but it is always wise to have it checked.

Found a picture of the engine/alternator mounts.

It is from the ETKA, and it shows the alternator being a tad bit located differently.

the new part number for the nut is WHT000750, 2.41+VAST. note from the pic in ETKA it might be a spline/star bit rather than allen head so make sure you're prepared when the time comes

Hi all,

Mark Carter fortunately has some of these so will order one or two from him soon.

I have managed to source a new head as the previous owner(s) had actually skimmed up to 1.0mm of the original!! Maybe to assist compression with his P&P job.
The u/s of the head when examined was not even entirely flat, albeit very close.

The block has been bored to about 81.5mm, but I have not been able to assess the original gasket. I don't want to chance another 1.8 gasket. Would you recommend a steel gasket from a 2.0 mk3 or other, given the slightly larger bore??

While a new head is being built I am getting a P&P on it. To complete this I am planning a wider TB & looking for a new camshaft.

My preference is for a Kent, Piper, or maybe even a Schrick 276 solid lifter cam. Will be getting a vernier too btw.

The issue is the above cam makers now only have min. 276 degree durations, and I don't want to lose the low-end zip the engine offers. The Cyl.Head builder doesn't advise Newman. Also, I really don't want lumpy idle at all!

I hear Schrick's 276 only comes on song at 3.5kRPM so I don't fancy spending big just for that!
Is there a reason why the Kent & Piper have a wider power bands at same/higher durations as the Schrick?

Their lobe centres are almost identical 110,110 & 108 for the Piper. I've had a good rummage on ClubGTi but didn't see any answers

Can you I have your recommendations please??


Ta,

Si

Sorry but I can't help with the cam, but you will get some advice if you start a new thread in the engine section of this web site as others may not read this as listed as coolant/radiator leak….  

Thanks Mark,

I was going to suggest mods relocate this, so thanks for reminding me.

 

the 2.0 8v fibre gasket should be plenty good enough, but if a steel one can be had for good money then by all means go for it

as for cam choice it depends exactly you want out of the engine and what sort of budget you have, clubgti is probably the best place to ask this kind of question. In fact this thread popped up just the other day which might have some useful info for you:
http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?287030

simone said

Thanks Mark,

I was going to suggest mods relocate this, so thanks for reminding me.

 

Ok relocating post but the problem is it covers about four different categories! 😕

Your Moderator Team
Sent from my Smartphone 📱

Hi Mike,

Apologies for being an inconvenience pal.

Instead of opening various threads on different matters, would it be better to just have a thread on the whole car in 'Your Mk1 Golfs & Projects'?

Let me know. Ta

Hi guys,

I've heard its common for the coolant flange attached to the side of the head (gearbox side) can crack as they are plastic.

As you can see an aftermarket one has been fitted. Genuinely can't recall if I bought it or a mechanic. Internally after what the poor head gasket and G13 did to the engine it doesn't look great internally.



apologies for the pic of the part itself isn't helpful

Can you tell me if this part (in the link below) is the closest metal item I can use to replace it?

https://www.vwheritage.com/068121133m-water-flange-mk1-2-golf-diesel-8-80-10-91-t25-[31]

If yes, then my one doesn't seem to have a temp sender on it :-/

Can I ask what your experiences are of the factory front water flange too please?
Whilst I need a new hose for this (block to water pump) I am considering a new flange here too.

Thanks very much.

here is what caused one on mine to leak, it distorted the plastic and ovaled it.

It is being compared to a metal one off a early diesel.


See my why I hate plastic parts.
I still hate plastic parts, but thanks Tolusina. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
They can oval, or Break at the ear connections.  I have bought some where the steel bushings for the bolt holes where longer than the plastic and I had to file them down.

Just look for the metal or alloy flanges.

it will go, just plug the hole. on later cars the temp sensor is moved to the front flange instead

simone said

 


Thanks very much.

If you look at the flange itself.  The metal bushes are past the plastic.  They have to be even with the plastic to insure a tight fitment of the rubber o-ring to the head and that the plastic can't rock.

Make sure that you can't push the steel bushes back to the outside.

If you can't then you ned to file the bushes even with the plastic. …

IF the plastic doesn't oval out, then they will crack and leak at the rears or mounting holes of the bolts.

Besure that you only tighten them to 87 in/lbs any more and you can either strip the bolt holes, or break the plastic bits (crack them at the ears.)

If you look at the ears, there is very little space between the steel bushes and the o-ring….
I also wouldn't hurt to add a modicum of Red or black ultra RTV to the outside of the o-ring so that you can actually glue it to prevent additional torque vibration.

pss.  Don't re-use plastic bits on a re-instal, buy new, you will be glad you did anf buy two one for now and one for when it breaks at the most inapropriate time, like a Sunday drive when the parts stores are closed, same for the t-stat covers and on Digi, the Front water flange, or convert it over to metal off a
older CIS, preferably with no water stabilized oil cooler… You will be glad you did….

See how I converted away from plastic bits, on my digi. Going on 4 years with no leaks…..
I still hate plastic parts, but thanks Tolusina. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum



I really really hate plastic parts.
 

Johnny, Brian… thanks very much.

Brian that oval it formed is ridiculous. Well done with all the metal replacement parts.  

Heritage say the metal part is for diesel models. Will try it out and ask the workshop to plug it.

Cheers

Metal for diesels, and plastic crud for Gassers…. I go diesels….

I got my flanges off a 81 Westy Rabbit Diesel in the breakers….    they worked just fine.

On one of my metal front flanges, I had to plug one of them as it had a extra drilled and tapped bung, and as Johnny said, I plugged it.

This one is the diesel version because it has a sensor hole in. diesels need 2x coolant sensors, one for dash sensor, one for glowplug relay. theres a hole in the front and side flange for this reason. the equivalent age petrol flange would be the same as this one, except it wouldn't have a hole in it

early petrol side flange has a hole in for the dash sensor, because the front flange only has 1 hole in for the 5th injector thermoswitch.

VW will sell you the bung, or just look at mk3 golf and rob one from them, the poverty spec often have a spare hole in the oil filter housing which is capped off with an M10x1 blank

Hey chaps,

Thanks for the tips and sorry for the late update. Only saw the car after a while today.

Workshop seem ok with fitting the diesel one. Will see how they plug it.

I was planning to fit a new heater matrix. I'm told that as the existing one is internal and not exposed to the elements it should be fine. I was just being overly cautious perhaps after what happened before, and want to renew as many coolant parts as feasible.  

Cheers.