Coolant change

I don't know if I would trust them fixing the engine if they couldn't  sort the coolant change
but if their doing it free then let them have ago
whats the worst that can happen

vwoldmad1 said

I don't know if I would trust them fixing the engine if they couldn't  sort the coolant change
but if their doing it free then let them have ago
whats the worst that can happen

Well the onus is on them now, they've taken responsibility to do the job right this time.

Now sure how it works in the UK 🇬🇧 now but here in Austria 🇦🇹 I'm a member of the ÖAMTC or back home the AA.

In such cases I can take the car to them and they will access the work done for a nominal fee. Now if they find something wrong with the work done, they will contact the workshop in this case and tell them in no uncertain terms to put it right.

Oh and they won't be able to argue with them because as part of a full membership you have a €100,000 war chest for legal fees in such cases! 😉

But hopefully it won't come to anything like that and it all goes fine this time! 👍🏼

Not sure anyone has agreed to fix it for free……… Yet anyway… Or did I miss something?

If a coolant pipe has popped off by their doing, they've probably covered it up by now if the car is with them.

Hope it all gets sorted out regardless!

Hi Got the car back head re-skimmed, new valve seals water pump cleaned oil change etc. they agreed to wave labour but `i supposedly had to pay for the Re-Engineering and parts, has to go back in 1 month or 500 miles to re-tighten the head, they said the temperature gauge wasn't working but i worked when i picked it up but is not working today, they said if I get a new gauge they would fit it, is this a single gauge or does the whole binnacle need replacing? also the car wont start and stay running I have to rev the car and drive down the road before it's ok, is this the Automatic chock or maybe the distributor cap and leads need replacing as the car used to start at the first turn of the key in all weathers.
Thanks for all your comments and advice, just wish I had time and knowledge to take some of them up but I had committed to them having the car back. they did send photos of the engine when the head was removed which I have tried to upload  I will attached 2 photos and hope this works.

Hi Got the car back head re-skimmed, new valve seals water pump cleaned oil change etc. they agreed to wave labour but `i supposedly had to pay for the Re-Engineering and parts, has to go back in 1 month or 500 miles to re-tighten the head, they said the temperature gauge wasn't working but i worked when i picked it up but is not working today, they said if I get a new gauge they would fit it, is this a single gauge or does the whole binnacle need replacing? also the car wont start and stay running I have to rev the car and drive down the road before it's ok, is this the Automatic chock or maybe the distributor cap and leads need replacing as the car used to start at the first turn of the key in all weathers.
Thanks for all your comments and advice, just wish I had time and knowledge to take some of them up but I had committed to them having the car back. they did send photos of the engine when the head was removed which I have tried to upload  I will attached 2 photos and hope this works.

Next photo attached

Good to hear you got it back, never had to re tighten my head bolts the last 5 times on 3 different engines I've took a head off as if done right you don't need to……. but I would take it back so they can check it's ok and then find another garage to use for anything else you need doing..

Yeah just have to go with them for now but need to find a garage I can trust! or make the time to try working on the car myself like Briano1234.
I have tried to load a photo of my car to the left side of the post to no avail, anyone know how to do this?
Cheers,

JD1 said

Yeah just have to go with them for now but need to find a garage I can trust! or make the time to try working on the car myself like Briano1234.
I have tried to load a photo of my car to the left side of the post to no avail, anyone know how to do this?
Cheers,

What device are you using and what OS has it got? 🤔

I followed this with a very passionate eye.
After reading your troubles I may have a sound piece of advice.
Find a mechanic who worked on the mk1 and caddy when they were in commercial use. Eg.. local borough council or utilities.
Someone may know who is still local to your area that fixed them with a passion.
I was lucky to have such a chap help me.
Cheers M.
In light of the above problem omg…
I hope you will breathe a sigh of relief and go steady with it when back on the road.
I have just followed the YouTube video on rad flush … ( remember it's all under pressure) when releasing to drain…(ouch)
And improvised A 5 flush and reconnect.
Then changed the two big hoses and radiator…
anthen. Asked if the heater matrix should be changed as I could still smell coolant.
Yep I changed it.. (( old book time  (labour) 6 hours)) I think.
But all good now.
Re temperature sender if the one attached is blue try a brown one to get the correct temp..
Drive it like a graceful lady and it will drive you home. Drive it like it's 1983 and it will surely bite you..


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you do not need to retighten head bolts on a 1.6-1.8 petrol engine, thats a warning flag right there...