Mk1 g60 wiring guide ?

or you could wire it like a CE1 digifant, they have the fuel relay powered by the ECU power relay. it all works the same, the injectors wont fire till the ecu tells them to either way

Well I've now wired up the fuel rail relay correctly with it getting it's negative trigger from pin 3
(again this extra relay is purely for the fuel rail as the fuel pump is as original k-jet )
 
It's now putting +12v down the red cable to the fuel rail and bizarrely the brown/yellow negative trigger to the fuel rail is working to a fashion now too as it's now trying to fire.
(Testing between the 2 terminals at the fuel rail plug I have constant 12v on cranking )
I'm not sure if the negative trigger to the rail is supposed to pulse or be constantly on when cranking but it's progress

I'll be changing the untested aftermarket chip in the ecu for a standard chip next and fingers crossed this damn thing fires up 👍
 

Fitting a standard chip hasn't helped.

I've measured the resistance across the injectors and they are all good (confirms injector loom all good too)

So next I'll need to plug something into the fuel rail plug that will measure a pulsed signal,  If it's a constant 12v and not pulsed then I can only put it down to ecu getting fried when I had some crossed wires at the start.

I'll check for pulsed signal and if no joy borrow an ecu to check properly

I'm officially stuck, I picked up a noid light kit and testing with that is showing a pulsed signal on cranking.
The only thing not connected is the lambda but that shouldn't stop the car from firing up  (I assume will just make it run rough )

I'm beyond frustrated with it and it's looking more and more like a breaker every time I open the garage door now

right now i would go back to vbasics. timing, compression and spark check. look at the plug tips now its been trying to fire, might be they are just well dirty/flooded and you just need to give them a clean up

Yep,  that's my next port of call.
The only reason I haven't touched anything on the timing side is because it should still all be as it was in the donor.

I'm confident that the wiring is correct now, I've added a relay for the ecu (through a 5amp fuse)

I'll have another mess over the next couple of days and keep you posted.
Cheers for being patient 😂😂

It's not going to run with the dizzy 180 degrees out is it 😂
We now have an engine that runs 👍

Thankyou for all your help getting me to this point John,  very much appreciated

I'm off to wrap up the loom and put the dash back in now

yaaaay

ok, new to this thread but stuck on the same thing. trying to get my 16V G60 MK1 swap on the road but it wont start.

no pulse to the injector and no spark

is the blue with yellow actually needed in this swap if i'm still using the mk1 fuel pump relay? it looks like trigger OUT from the ECU but i it looks like the mk1 just using ignition as the trigger.

red/green is to ignition. red/black on black plug next to starter # 50. (did try #50 too)

red/white (O2) & red/yellow) fuel rail - to fuel pump relay #87

black/yellow (ECU and ISV) - to fuel pump relay #15

brown/white - ground to head
brown (2) - ground to battery

my fuse box version is page 9.
http://chris.chemidl.in/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Vw-wiring-diagrams-1982-1983-1984.pdf
the started turns the engine just fine.

I don't think the fuel pump is powering on from #87 so i took the cover of the relay and closed the circuit with my fingers and i hear the pump run, tried cranking like this, still nothing. relay is getting battery and ignition power. fine.

one note, with ignition on the can feel with my hand that the ISV has is humming a little. so the black/yellow does have powe with ignition on and the ground is making its way into and back out of the ECU.

been stuck for a few weeks on this. help me out dub fam. :-)

MikesVWRabbit said

http://chris.chemidl.in/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Vw-wiring-diagrams-1982-1983-1984.pdf
the started turns the engine just fine.

Those are specific to US Built RABBITS.  The USA Golf MK1 (badged Rabbit) isn't your Daddy's Euro Golf.

While they are close they also do different things over here, as example, the horn circuit is backwards over here that the euro golf.  I had a small learning curve in this as I was an original Westy/Rabbit Diesel 4dr LS version, and 20 years later I was learning Euro Built Cabriolets.

For clarity - I am in the USA

blue/yellow is fuel relay trigger from ecu, I would use it but if you have a kjet relay its not required

red/green is cranking live for ecu

red/black cranking live to starter

if the kjet relay isnt triggering you havent got a spark, so check distributor hall sensor next. the green wire from ecu should go direct to the coil negative, when cranking your rev counter should jiggle if you have a spark signal from ecu

no no jumpy needle when i crank with or without manually closing the relay.

at the coil:
Terminal 1 - Green from ECU and Red/Black from black 10 pin which looks to go to tach and fuel pump relay (and did also go to oil pressure control and up shift control)
Terminal 15 - from track 30-2 which tracks to ignition switch.

Hall connection looks fine.

ok next you want to check hall signal from the distributor, if you can get hold of any old vw 3 pin dizzy mk1-3 you can plug it in and spin by hand see if it gets you a spark.

if you wire in a fuel relay to ecu trigger you should hear pump prime ignition on, then run while you spin the dizzy

finally back looking at this. still no spark or injector pulse.

i have power to O2 and power to injectors/ISV wired together. when i turn ignition on i hear the click in the engine bay from i think the ISV. these are wired into the GTI fuel pump relay.

then red/green is into 50 which goes to starter.

i have red/black from the black plug under the dash (the one with the starter wire in it) which is going to #1 on the coil along with the green.

then also a black going to # 15 on the coil

no tach jiggle when cranking, tried 2 coils.

what should the wires to the coil read in volts when cranking?

Black wire to coil should have 12vignition on and while cranking, green wire from ECU pulses to negative to trigger spark and the red/black is just picking up this signal to drive rev counter. Pull the red/black off in case that's earthing the coil somehow

progress - ish

found that i had the ignition wire that connects through the main black plug on the opposite side. that is now in the correct spot and i have 12V when cranking to the coil from looks like pin 15 on the fuel pump relay.

still no spark or pulse. :-(



fuel pump pins:
31 ground - yup
30 fused power - yup
15 power to coil - yup

87 to pump - no power ever but pump runs when i close the relay manually with the cap off

31b in manual shows as black and going to coil but in reality is red/black and marked as 1 on the back of relay. in manual it goes to track 7 which links with tach and other things but goes to 1 on coil. when in engine bay it is also red/black (guessing the manual is wrong?). i guess this should be a pulsing ground? or am i way of on 31b?

15 is coil power from the fusebox, the relay pin doesnt feed anything. terminal 15 on the relay and the coil live terminal are both fed by the ignition switch pin 15

31b is fed from the coil negative, i.e. the negative pulse from the ecu/spark module which triggers coil to spark. This also drives the rev counter and fuel relay on k-jet cars. no spark trigger from ECU = no rev counter = no fuel relay trigger

this is the wrong fuel relay for a G60 though, you should be using a 67/80/167 fuel relay which is triggered direct from the ecu pin 3 via D/13 on a CE1 fusebox or G1/3 on CE2.

if you have early american type fusebox then you can use any kind of simple 4 terminal relay on a seperate relay holder:
30 - live
15/86 - ignition live
85 - to ecu pin 3
87 - to fuel pump and lambda heater via 15a fuse