MrP's GTI Rivage

yep straight swap, the AUG is also foudn on post-90 mk2 golf GTI. ACD is the pre-90, and 9a is the very early one

I am no mechanical brain but it was an AUG box that I put on my Sportline as that had been the original box on the car before being replaced.

Legends!

So any MK2 GTi box will fit?

What about spline size for the clutch disc, Or does that only affect 8v/16v?

aye any mk2 gti 8v box will go on, spline size is the same. the 16v and 2.0 8v mk3 spline is bigger, for either of those you would need a mk2 16v clutch kit.

The ACD and 9a have the same ratios as the AUG except 2nd is taller on the AUG, to help improve the 0-60 time apparently

the really early boxes have a multi pin reverse switch, it'll still work just requires splicing the plug on. but for an easy life use the later ones with 2 pin reverse switch, swap your old one over if its different

rubjonny said

aye any mk2 gti 8v box will go on, spline size is the same. the 16v and 2.0 8v mk3 spline is bigger, for either of those you would need a mk2 16v clutch kit.

The ACD and 9a have the same ratios as the AUG except 2nd is taller on the AUG, to help improve the 0-60 time apparently

the really early boxes have a multi pin reverse switch, it'll still work just requires splicing the plug on. but for an easy life use the later ones with 2 pin reverse switch, swap your old one over if its different

Brilliant. I'll source the best box available, worse case situation i'll have mine rebuilt.  

just double check the box code when you get one, no tellign if original to the car. if it is a 16v or 2.0 8v one no biggy, probably an idea to renew the clutch anyway

rubjonny said

just double check the box code when you get one, no tellign if original to the car. if it is a 16v or 2.0 8v one no biggy, probably an idea to renew the clutch anyway

Clutches are cheap anyway, and I'd want to lighten the flywheel whilst I'm at it too!

Thanks for your help  

I've been a bit slow with the updates the past few weeks as I've been on holiday. Whilst out of the country I had my friend collect the spare interior which came with it and i've had chance to take a proper look at it. It also came with a small box of spares, mostly rubbish, but inside the box was the VIN plate, I've checked all details and they all match! USA! USA! USA! I have the two cloth Rivage front seats which are heated (unknown if they work) to go with the cloth interior and matching Corrado front seats currently in the car. TYhis cloth interior is all 99% mint, door carsds, seats etc, other than a bit of fabric pull on one of the rear seats, however I have loads of spare cloth which appears to be from the rest of the unused Corrado interior

I then have a cream Leather interior:
It's tired and worn where the bolsters and the foam is a little saggy, but no holes or tears in the leather, just cracks and fading. The door cards have water damage and the cardboard itself needs replacing, then the leather has a few pin hole punctures which look to be from the staples in the rear coming through, I presume from storage and having things on top of them. It comes with the pull handles and gearstick gaiter. Then the rear bench is cloth, not the leather I was hoping, no idea why. It is a very attractive tweed style material, but ultimately I need I need a retrim or to find a replacement cream leather rear bench. Does anyone know what this is from as I can't find info on it anywhere, it is gorgeous. Not sure if it's worth anything to anyone or just scrap material? (it's mint by the way, just needs a clean). All in all not bad for a freebie, but needs £500+ of work on it I'd say before I even consider putting it in. I am also missing a few parts - the handbrake surround, parcel shelf and carpet but I think that's it. The carpet I can get from Newton's and the parcel shelf is simple to recover myself. Bitter sweet really.   

So today has been an electrical day.

when I got back off holiday the batter way flat so I had to jump start it.

First port of call was look at the stereo as I had bridged the permanent and ignition live as a temporary solution to install the headunit.

So I set about figuring out the wiring:


As far as i'm aware these should be:
red - permanent live
brown - earth
grey/blue - illumination
brown/red - ignition live
blue/white - speed sensor

However, the only two active were the earth and permanent, tracing the wire back and the rest had been cut halfway down the dash. Great.

I fumbled around and found some more cut wires and these were positioned around the same length so I presumed they were for the above loom.



I have:
white/yellow x2
brown/red x2
grey/blue x1

The only one live is the grey/blue which is the illumination. The others do nothing. I can't really see where they trace back to as the go above the back of the glovebox.

Anyone know whats going on here and what these random cut wires are for?   

I think the white/yellow is the speed sensing for some VW stereo - i.e. the faster you drive, the louder the volume goes, so you don't need those.

The brown/red could be to do with the electric hood (if you have one) I've just fitted a stereo in a Cabby and the brown/red was cut but the ends twisted together.

Untwisting them stopped the roof from working so I think that someone had previously spliced in to this cable to get an ignition live - i.e. with the key in as per roof operation - as opposed to an ignition switched live.

Hairyarse said

I think the white/yellow is the speed sensing for some VW stereo - i.e. the faster you drive, the louder the volume goes, so you don't need those.

The brown/red could be to do with the electric hood (if you have one) I've just fitted a stereo in a Cabby and the brown/red was cut but the ends twisted together.

Untwisting them stopped the roof from working so I think that someone had previously spliced in to this cable to get an ignition live - i.e. with the key in as per roof operation - as opposed to an ignition switched live.

Well, with my current tester all wires apart from the grey/blue were dead under all conditions.

The yellow/whites were dead. I found another speed sensor near the fusebox and the tester pulsed (and increased with revs).

The brown/Reds were also duff. All electrics work in the car/dash/clocks etc, all bulbs everything. Including the electric roof. Bizarre.

I've used a temporary cable from the fusebox to the stereo for an ignition live but this will grate on my OCD so it looks like I'll have to take the dash off and trace the wiring.  

Hey Mr P

if i rem right grey\blue is normally for electric aerial.

Im having similar issues as electrics have been played around with. Stereo is on constant live.

if ignition barrel has been changed with an earlier one it can leave the ignition live on all the time , easy way is if the roof operates with no key in the ignition. This is the issue on mine after i changed my ignition housing\barrel but i think it was an earlier one DOH!

i`ll leave mine for now and re-wire the stereo!

your making good progress, looking good

Alps

Alps said

Hey Mr P

if i rem right grey\blue is normally for electric aerial.

Im having similar issues as electrics have been played around with. Stereo is on constant live.

if ignition barrel has been changed with an earlier one it can leave the ignition live on all the time , easy way is if the roof operates with no key in the ignition. This is the issue on mine after i changed my ignition housing\barrel but i think it was an earlier one DOH!

i`ll leave mine for now and re-wire the stereo!

your making good progress, looking good

Alps

Grey/blue is 100% illumination as it becomes a live circuit with the headlight switch. Were Rivages fitted with a electric ariel as standard? It doesn't have one now but I will be fitting one soon enough.

I've not actually tried the roof without the keys, I'll give it a try.

I don't think they had electric aerial as standard. Check the Rivage brochure in the brochure section  

Usually electric aerial wire is plain blue.

i knew there was blue in it somewhere

ive just pulled my fusebox out to find a shocker of a job on the wiring!

might have to drive as is and sort it out in the winter lol

the brown/red is key-in-ignition live, it is fed from the ignition switch pin SU. you should have 2 brown/red wires at the stereo plug, one comes from the ignition switch the other runs off to the fusebox area for the roof electrics

as said the white/yellow is speed signal, its only used on the very expensive VW stereo systems so you can ignore it if you like. It is fed from the back of the dash clocks.

grey/blu is illumination as you figured out, again you could ignore it as most stereos dont use it anyway

rubjonny said

the brown/red is key-in-ignition live, it is fed from the ignition switch pin SU. you should have 2 brown/red wires at the stereo plug, one comes from the ignition switch the other runs off to the fusebox area for the roof electrics

as said the white/yellow is speed signal, its only used on the very expensive VW stereo systems so you can ignore it if you like. It is fed from the back of the dash clocks.

grey/blu is illumination as you figured out, again you could ignore it as most stereos dont use it anyway

Ok, this makes a little more sense now. 

Well my roof/windowswork without the key in the ignition. 

Both brown/red wires appear to be going up and behind the glovebox. 

What's my next port of call? Check the ignition switch or fuse box? On that note any idea which pin it is on the fusebox? 

ok with the roof that isnt right, so something has been bodged somewhere to bypass the safety cutout. its a case of start at the rear and work your way forward to find it, the wiring in the boot, near the fusebox and near ignition switch are the 3 easy places for such bodgery to take place so start your search here.

for the windows is it the 1 touch setup you have or aftermarket?

rubjonny said

ok with the roof that isnt right, so something has been bodged somewhere to bypass the safety cutout. its a case of start at the rear and work your way forward to find it, the wiring in the boot, near the fusebox and near ignition switch are the 3 easy places for such bodgery to take place so start your search here.

for the windows is it the 1 touch setup you have or aftermarket?

It has the factory one touch windows as far as I can tell (91 Rivage so should be standard). Are these on the same circuit? 

I've had a poke around the fusebox and can't see anything bodged there. 

I'll check the rear and ignition switch tonight.

the windows should have an ignition live, its separate from the hood wiring. however, are you testing them with the door open? if so that could be why, they have a feature which switches on the module with the door open, also they stay active for a few seconds after the ignition is switched off