How do I remove my alternator - please help!

if the volt reg doesnt help then another alternator would be the next step

My regulator bushes after 250,000 miles.

Cheers mark1gls … That's what mine looked like when I took it off !!

I'm hoping it will be this and not alternator, looks like someone has already tried to remove before and that Allan key head looks fairly rounded already!

I have the top two bolts off already, are there any others??

Nope just those Craig

However getting the new alternator back in was a pain for me, as the one I got was a recon (from GSF, they offer a trade in for your old one)and they painted it, with some mighty thick paint! Wouldn't go back into it's nice spot on the engine block

i seem to rcal there was one on the side under the timing belt cover? not the allen one another holding the bracket to the block?

Fiddly job trying to get new regulator in situ !! Big difference between my old and new : /

Have a question though, I have a little 2 prong metal bit (attached to alternator) that I think needs to touch something on the regulator… but mine doesn't. Hoping the pics can show what I mean - any advice?

Sorted the regulator issue now, still the same.

Will look to replace the alternator but it will have to go to a garage as someone has tried previously and the head is rounded into a perfect circle !

you can remove the lower alternator bracket from the block, its possible with spanners down the top and iirc theres a fixing in the side under the timing belt somewhere.  bit fiddly but certainly doable

Hi, I am trying to get the alternator off my 1990 Clipper 1.8, but pivot bolt alloy key head is rounded, what tool is there to use to remove pivot bolt anyone, and where can I get one.
If you have a picture that would help.
thanks

they're just normal bolts, with effort you can undo them with a set of spanners

You can try and hammer in a slightly larger star drive and undo the bolt with that, spray plenty of Plusgas penatrating fluid on the ends of the bolt and leave it to soak.
There is not much room to work so it may be easier to remove the bracket and the alternator as that has 3 bolts holding it on the engine but you will need to remove other stuff to get to the bracket.
If all else fails some big mole grips on the end of the Allen key bolt.
New bolts can be bought of eBay or a good nut and bolt shop. Smear the new bolt in copper grease so it does not seaze and you have the same problem a few years down the line.

Picture of bracket removed and you can workout the 3 bolts holding it on, 2 on the side and 1 at the front. The 2 on the side also hold the engine mount and 1 hold the cambelt cover.



 Picture of bracket and bolt,

Cheers Mark1gls, really appreciate the pictures as well, as it is very tight in the bay.
Will try what you suggest.
Much Appreciated.

I tried to find a link to the bolt as there was some stainless steel ones on eBay but I can find them now!

I have the same problem with the engine I took out to swop with in the picture, I found there is not a lot room but I was lucky as I did not need to remove my alternator but I had to tap it with a hammer to move it when changing over the alternator belt.

Ok as I now need to remove the alternator bracket, how easy is it to take the cover off at back of cambelt, is it a cambelt removeal then cover removal?

I know it is only plastic, but don't really want to break it.

Thanks

iirc the bolts are accessible with the inner metal cover still in place, just a bit fiddly to wiggle the bracket out from behind

if you mean the lower one you just need to remove the crank pulley to get it off, plus possibly the waterpump pulley. you might be able to get enough wiggle room with just the crank pulley removed so you gain access to the bolts holding the lower cover on to get at the alt brackets?

its been so many years since I did this job I cant recall exactly how i  did it

rubjonny You're right, crank pully needs to come off for the bottom, you don't wanna be removing the belt and the crank unless you're confident in setting the car back up again (mark everything if you do!!)

Here's a diagram of the way it fits, if I were you and you have a welder about. Get some threaded bar, put 2 x nuts on the one end and weld in place, then spot weld the other end of the threaded bar to the end of the alum key head and get it out like that, you'll probably have to hack saw it off when you can access the head as they're tight against the chassis leg anyways, but it might save you a lot of timing hassle!