Mk1 Servo change. Brake pipework question...

Technical question for all you bods…

My cabby is an 1800 on a K plate and 1993 reg. The current master cylinder has four outlets. Am I right in thinking that the two out the side go to the front brakes (one goes to each side of the car) and the two out the bottom go to the rear? I read somewhere that the cylinders are anti-lock compensators??


So, the replacement master cylinder has two working outlets as shown here…


But the replacement one has two blocked up as shown here…


So, when I fit the new cylinder what is the correct method of plumbing in the new system. Is it as straightforward as running the two fronts to one side, and the two rears to the other? As the brakes are a fairly important I'd like to get it right!!!

Having re-read my post, I have clearly forgotten that the front and rear outlets relate to front and rear brakes, so that's out.

I picked up this from the forum's Brake Upgrade section...

Now, there's a few variations on the 16V master cylinders you can refit. Essentially it comes down to '2 outlet' or '4 outlet'. Also if you're doing a 16V conversion, you can use the 4 outlet master cylinder but use blanking plugs, so there are 2 outlets on the left (the 2 outlet 16V master cylinder has pipe connections on the right). Bearing in mind the original master cylinder has 4 or 5 outlets (there are 1 or 2 hydraulic brake light switches and possibly a T piece underneath the cylinder) you may need to use extra T-pieces to provide all the connections. For each T piece you introduce, you'll also need a short solid brake pipe (say, 4 inches long) with 2x male fittings (they are a standard, M10x1). It should be possible to bend the existing pipes to reach the new master cylinder (or T pieces). Remember that the braking on a Mk1 Golf is diagonally split, ie the front section of the master cylinder supplies diagonally opposite front and rear wheels; the rear section the others. However you work out the piping, you need to retain this for safety.

yeah that covers it, on the master cylinders the 1/2/3 front holes are 1 circuit on the MC and the rear 1/2/3 is the other circuit.

you need to plumb diagonally opposite corners into each circuit, basically how it is now just the 2 bottom pipes will go on the side instead

or if its easier for you you could just use 2 on 1 side of the MC with MK2/3 T pieces joining up to the rear 2 lines that used to go on the bottom

Lovely thanks, think I'll go for first option and have a couple of little extension pieces made up to attach the load compensators to the threaded holes on the right.

Many thanks rubjonny

Hi New to here. its probably been discussed a million times but I cant seem to get the search to display the right information without a 1000 pages of everything!
Ive just recently purchased my old 91 clipper back after 15 years so I'm in the middle of trying to put it back to some sort of normality!!
it seems to have had the 16v upgrade on the servo and master cylinder.

as you can see it has a 4 outlet with 2 brass T pieces and the two left outlets are linked together.

is it possible to just connect the 4 to all the outlets? as it looks a bit of a mess and I want it to look nice and tidy under the bonnet. As I wrote earlier I'm trying to undo 15 years of bodging and peoples extras.

currently have removed the engine for rebuild and fit power steering.


Thanks

Beema Geeza said

Hi New to here. its probably been discussed a million times but I cant seem to get the search to display the right information without a 1000 pages of everything!

â€
â€Thanks

What are you searching for ?

Hi Ade I have added to my first post as it went missing during upload

I want to find info about connecting without using the T pieces.
I just think it looks a mess. all I was going to do anyway was neaten it all up but just wondered if I can get rid of them anyway.
cheers
Neil

in linking the 2 outlets like that the safety features of having a dual circuit with diagonally opposite wheels has been defeated, so you want to get that off asap.

then either plumb the wheels to all 4 holes as you say, or blank off the 2 spare holes. Bleed nipples fit nicely

Thanks for that, mechanics I'm ok on some stuff but technical stuff like this I'm not that good! I'm auto electrician so I'm the other way!

I've actually got the engine out for rebuild, power steering fit and also having the engine bay painted so I've been concentrating on that for the last couple of months. 

I'm going to just fit complete new brake lines anyway so it's neat and tidy.  I'll get them to where they have to be then my dad will flare the ends and connect them. 
Neil

Brake pipes done, engine rebuilt, gearbox overhauled, just waiting for the power steering final tweek and pipe work then the engine is going back in

I see you have repaired the clutch cable hole, if you are still going to be using a clutch cable I would still fit a strengthening plate as well as it's such a rubbish design by VW.
You can just stick the plate on as it come with double sided tape or even paint it to match your very clean engine bay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK1-GOLF-Bulkhead-repair-patch-for-Clutch-Cable-MK1-Golf-Jetta-Sciro-/182627116609?hash=item2a856ca641:g:UsQAAMXQVT9S38nh

as long as the repair was done well you should be fine, the bulkhead gets weakened if the car is driven for years with an old/rubbish clutch which is too heavy.

mu 83 mk1 cab was still perfect around the hole and with a new sachs clutch gave me no issues

I haven't repaired the hole. I actually purchased the reinforced plate and it's been welded in. I did the same with the accelerator pedal by buying that section with the bracket in place. My mate the welder did the whole job and fitted new battery tray. 

hey guys sorry for asking again on this. im attempting to upgrade my 81 GTI to a 9" servo and the larger matching MC. I have already moved the brake switch to pedal so am going to follow the diag rule on the MC so back and front on diff circuit.
Can i just union join the existing brake lines to my new brakelines i will be fitting please ?
(i will use one port of the MC for each brake)
also any use of compensators needed? i didnt think i would as my 4 port MC can feed each brake in diag.

thanks

As long as you have two diagonal circuits then you can use unions or directly into the master cylinder, it does not matter.
The rear brakes must be restricted, either the restrictor that sits on the rear axle or the inline ones that fit on to the master cylinder. You do not want the rear brakes locking before the front as that will spin the car.

Cheers Ade. are the restrictors already present for the rear brakes? newbie here and will be getting things checked over but want to attempt the main bit myself.
Its standard 1.6 GTI 81..  i dont want to put in T pieces if i dont have to ..

edit:I see they are inline regulators so dont need T . Just need to confirm if present already and dont need to installl.

Thanks again 

No worries.
If it is a GTI then it should have the rear brake compensator connected to the rear axle with a spring.
If you have a four port master cylinder then just plumb each line in to it. When I have done this is the past I bough a reel of copper/nickel brake pipe, some ends and a flaring tool and made all new brake lines. Also added braided hoses. But if your lines are good you can carefully bend them to the new master cylinder. I just wanted new corrosion proof lines.

exactly what i have bought. have a decent flaring tool and copper pipe and bits. Will be union all the ports to each brake in the correct way.
appreciate your advice mate. Will ping you back here if I get into difficulty. Not lookng forward to taking the old servo out as a fiddly job apparantly .

cheers!

if its neater theres no reason why you cant use T pieces, or run them all to master its your call. T pieces are fitted as standard on mk2 and mk3 golf from the factory, saves money on brake lines

thanks Gents. Appreciate your comments here. Will take a look when i start. i have the T pieces and also MC plug so will be able to see the best way when i take it all out.
Plan is to do them all independently using unions to the respective 4 brake lines to the wheels.