Mk1 R32 (update)
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Local Hero
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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Old Timer
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Sent from the Moon.
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Mars red always looks great..
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Old Timer
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Local Hero
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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Local Hero
Try cranking it over whilst holding the air flow flap in the metering head wide open to see if that shifts it.
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Local Hero
It could be so many things especially if youve had it to bits.
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Local Hero
Could be primary fuel pressure but there's enough pressure to open the injectors so I doubt its that.
It could be control pressure thats wrong causing the metering needle to be in an incorrect position relative to fuel / air ratio required. Possible WUR fault.
Could be a major air leak around the intake manifold so the air being dragged into the engine is not via the flap so the flap is staying shut.
You could try jamming the flap open slightly and try and start it with the rubber top off the metering head and control the A/F ratio via the throttle pedal to get some temp into it to see if it runs ok when warm or hear for an air leak.
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Local Hero
It's like trying to find a needle in a haystack if you don't have the proper tools for testing this set up.
They are usually dead reliable as there's not a lot to go wrong but I guess they are 30 years old now and rusty filler necks have taken their toll as well!
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Old Timer
Matt
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