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'83 Golf - (non)BBS Bodykit - Resto Project - (02/01/22)

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'83 Golf - (non)BBS Bodykit - Resto Project

Cheers for the info rubjonny, I've seen your post on how you fitted it your mk2 version. Nice work. I've got the mk2 master cylinder and servo  too so that should help.

On another note, got this today :) Should clear up a few issues!




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Pattern Bumper

Just back from trying to fit the bumper and whilst it was a good price @£47 but for some reason it just doesn't fit.

The brackets are too far apart and both sit bang smack in the middle on the chassis leg instead of flush to the insides. Anyone had any experience with these or know where to get decent pattern bumpers from or do I have to put up with the ropey fitting brackets? Are all pattern bumpers made by the same company (euro Bump) ?

Not sure whether to return the one above, live with it or get a genuine one..




Cheers



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Polish made mate.

Ever growing range of new mk1 golf parts www.classic-vw.co.uk

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can you split the plastic from the bumper bar then slot the bracket holes? does the plastic part at least look right if not then send it back

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

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The plastic parts look very good, I inspected that bit when I bought it. The metal bit is ok but it's less weight than a genuine one and the brackets are noticeably about half inch out on both sides.

I can easily reshape the brackets to fit but could also just as easily return it and get one from VW Heritage, which I've checked and is made by a Danish company called Klokkerholm. I've had a look and people seem happy with the vw heritage ones. It's about £15 more but mIght be worth it in the long run…



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Another new bumper!

Ok so decided I have decided I'm going to return the bumper I bought last weekend to the shop as it was quite shocking. (even the nuts were welded over the holes in irons wonky so the bolts wouldn't fit through!)

Took a punt on the Euro Car Parts version for the same money and glad I did, The plastic parts are pretty much the same, both looked fairly good from the outside, but the metal work on the Euro car parts one is instantly, noticeably better!

With the Euro Bump version, the  metal work was attached to the bumper by excess plastic pushed through holes (obviously when hot) and squashed down to hold it all together. So I couldn't separate it if I needed to.

The new one looks pretty much the same as a genuine VW one, solid well formed and painted metal work, held onto the outer skin using proper fittings and screws and the brackets are so much heavier, stronger, and a much better shape. Over all, despite being much lighter than a VW original, it looks quite well made.

Haven't tried fitting it yet tho  :lol:




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I bought both my front and rear from ECP. Had no problems at all with the fit.

However, where the metal bit screws into the plastic bumber: dont over tighten the screws as it can pull on the bumper leaving little "in-dents" in the plastic! You wont see them unless looking hard but Im a perfectionist. lol.

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Front bumper fitter

Well it's fitted! Piece of cake and fits really well, a bit tight to the wings but nothing unusual I don't think.



caddymandean: I am wondering a little about that now, if you look at the pic it looks like that may have happened! I did my best not to over tighten them as I was worried about stripping the thread from the plastic..

I'll have to go back to the garage and have a look!



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Nice work :P Where did you get the bumpers btw?? If you dont mind me asking  :D

Wanna Hug?

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Got the new one from euro car parts, cost £47.60 which is the cheapest I've seen and quite reasonable on quality too.



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Front Direction indicators obviously incorrectly positioned (1.4.2b)

Front both Direction indicator insecure (1.4.A.2b)

Front both Front constant velocity joint is insecure (2.5.C.1b)

Front registration plate insecure (6.3.1b)

Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)

Front Windscreen wiper not operating automatically when switched on (8.2.1b)

Nearside Rear Tyre not fitted in accordance with side wall instructions (4.1.D.1f)

Offside Front Tyre not fitted in accordance with side wall instructions (4.1.D.1f)

Front Drivers seat insecure (6.2.A.1)

Front passengers seat insecure (6.2.A.1) Got new clips for both seat but they are still not 100% still a little bit of movement from the inside runner

Offside Front main beam Headlamp insecure (1.7.3)

Both Rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.A.4a)

Front both Headlamp aim too high (1.8 ) need to get the garage to do this

Front side repeaters Direction indicator missing (1.4.A.2b) - either need to find some non cabby wings without the holes, get side repeaters :sick: or get the holes welded up. For now i'll probably put Duct tape over it so they can't see the hole  :lol:



Nearly road Legal, I've clamped the rear brake compensator toward the rear of the car but that doesn't seem to have helped, I've also put WD40 all over the front linkage but not sure this will help as the linkage is almost brand new!! Maybe have to leave it to a garage!  :banghead:



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One step forward 10 steps back!

*** Well… had it booked in for the MOT yesturday, drove it to the garage, left it for 3 hours, went to start it and spent 3 hours trying to get the :censored: thing to start!!! ****

Here's a bit of info:

  • Got a Toad Alarm and immobiliser
    To start the car I turn the ignition and then click the button on my key fob to disable the immobiliser, at that point I hear a large buzzing noise (which I guess is the fuel pump) and then the car will turn over
    There is a light on the Dashboard that flashes in different sequences depending on the status of the alarm.
    [/list:u]

    As it stands now:

    • The LED for the alarm was not showing anything
      The ignition works, I can beep the horn, use the wipers, indicators etc etc
      When I turn the ignition on I get a few relay clicks, then another when I turn the key fully
      Pressing the button on  the key fob does NOTHING
      I have tried BOTH key fobs
      There is no buzz when I turn the ignition, engine doesn't even flinch
      The battery is brand new and starts 1st time usually
      I have checked EVERY fuse I could find and none are blown
      [/list:u]

      I had a lose wire last week on the starter motor which stopped the car starting BUT the the fuel pump always kicked in and the alarm worked perfectly. USUALLY if I hold down the key fob for 3 seconds, the alarm will sound. At the moment I have no central locking at all. It's like the car thinks it has no alarm. Yet not enough to allow me to start it!
      So….WHAT THE HELL!!!

      My car is stranded in a car park and theres shite all I can do about it!

       :banghead:  :banghead:  :banghead:  :banghead:  :banghead:  :banghead:  :banghead:

      Please help, few beers for anyone who can help me :D

      General consensus from TOAD is that the main immobiliser box is shafted and the alarm will need to be removed. With it being a CAT 1 (Toad C5T2) there are no diagrams, all the wires are black and the alarm was fitted when the loom was put in so its gonna be a bugger to remove. Plus I'll then have no alarm!

      A few people have said I should be able to bypass the alarm so hopefully i'll be able to figure that out at some point!

      dentdoc said

      Try and by pass the alarm and get the fuel pump running and it will start. The fuel pump wire is cut in two and the alarm makes the circuit






      Poor old girl!



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SHE RUNS!!!

I was just about to start the arduous task of bypassing the alarm and then possibly removing it……and just as I started to move the surround from the dashboard BAM the light for the alarm started blinking…  8O

I slowly went to put the surround back and it stopped again.

So after a bit of pocking around I heard the fuel pump kick in!!! RESULT!!!!

Now all I need to do is spend probably a day or so, making sure all my wiring is good as there is obviously something loose somewhere being the dash which is stopping the immobiliser from working fully/all the time.

Whatever it is though I'm "megga" chuffed! Can get back on track and hopefully save myself a bunch of cash too!


 :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:  :cheer:



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Got the dash off and started checking the live wires and earth points on Tuesday.




Got some propper kit for re doing some of the connections, to be honest I was quite happy with the overall appearance of the loom, but thought it best to make sure it was 100%


Some heat shrink (with adhesive) butt connectors.




And 172pc heat shrink kit:



Touch wood the previous wiring gremlin has been eliminated by redoing a few bad connections..

I also took the car in to get the brakes tested before the MOT, wanted to make sure that they were ok before putting it through another full MOT.



And the brakes are ok!! Result!



MOT booked in for Monday!!

Cheers for Lookin!



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Where did you get the selection box of terminals? I can only ever find them on there own.

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Got them here:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/936/category/4

I was going to get 25 red butt connectors and 25 blue butt connectors in a pack from ebay for a fiver but decided to go for the full box as 1) I didn't really need 25 of each and b) thought it might be useful to have a few other connector options.

Unfortunatelly being adhesive heat shrink ones, they're on average twice the price of standard connectors of the same type… But so worth it just knowing the joint is solid.



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Also available on the bay now for a good price:

http://bit.ly/ObduTn



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Yea I use the adhesive heat shrink on machines. A lot better.

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Just getting the old girl ready for her MOT again, turns out I was missing the bulb in the hazard light switch.

Thanks to rubjonny I found a list of all the pin inputs/outputs so I decided to do a little DIY, as I don't have time to wait for the bulb holder to arrive.

Using my awesome soldering skilz.. And the heat shrink I bought the other week, I managed to put a makeshift light in that connected to the inside terminal and then to the earth pin on the outside of the switch.



Pow!



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