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My mk1 beginners engine rebuild - WILL IT START?!?!?

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My mk1 beginners engine rebuild - WILL IT START?!?!?

jellybelly said

i'll keep a eye on this thread…. after my welding is done which should be sometime this year i wanna rebuild my engine so keep the info coming

are your going to respray the engine bay or just clean it up??

good work  :D  :D

Thanks jellybelly… the engine bay isn't painted well and looks dull so it won't come up well… I plan on giving it a go though  :wink:

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Today saw a bit of work before I am roped into babysitting my sisters two kids… bless em  :wink:

Looked at the head this morning and it was covered in cack.

Front and rear



So… spent few hours cleaning it before boredom got too much  :roll:

The valve stem oil seals normally go on the mk1 engines as far as I'm told but I never knew what the were… until now..  they are located at the bottom of where the valve slides in.. you can see them here with a washer (appologies it's not the best):-



It's difficult to get good purchase on them without grabbing the washer or ripping the top of them off (which I done twice)… but.. once you get one right and pop it off the rest go ok.

one valve stem oil seal


all valve stem oil seals and washers removed



I got quite a comprehensive kit so these were included as well as virtually everything else was too  :dance: .  

Carrying on with a final push before babysitting…

The injectors.. muuuwwhahahaha!!!  

For all beginers I'm sure they're surrounded in mysetery… I was pooping it with these  :?

I wanted the injectors out so that I could clean behind them on the head and also to fit new seals.  As the beginers will appreciate, this is a bit of a  :scratch: moment…. they wiggle about and theres nothing really there to unscrew… I knew I had to put the pipe back on to get these out so I done that bit…





then.. a quick post on this wonderfull site and M7R and emm gave me confidence and said "yeah… just pull em out.. they might be stiff but just pull em out"… after pulling on the pliers and nearly rupturing my spleen the first one came out… POP!!!  I don't think I have four spleens to reputure but I assure you.. each injector ripped something inside me!!!  These are terrible… I suggest giving them a wiggle as you pull… you'll probably still keel over after it but it's a bit easier!!!

Here is the first one out.  You'll notice a ring around it.  These were as brittle as anything and a twist of the screwdriver snapped it…



I repeated the screwdriver trick on the others then replaced them… here they are proudly sporting there new rubber rings… and frowning on the old ones next to them…



This then allowed me to clean the bits on the head behind the injectors..



I'll be buying new vavles tomorrow as these are useless and badly pitted..



They are a small fortune but I've come this far so why cut corners if they need replacing  :dontknow: … I'll also have to clean the head a bit more in places.

Won't be able to actually do anything tomorrow but looking forward to going at it again hopefully Thursday night  :dance: !!

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good build man
i always enjoy strippin stuff down and rebuilding it then u no how it works and u can always learn sumit

mk1 golf gti in porsche ocen blue and polished porsche 7slots

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Glad you got them out,  I am a few weeks behind you, but took the injectors out before removing the engine.

I am watching the valve part with interest.  before i go any further :wink:

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8O  8O  8O  8O Wow!!! love the time your putting into this thread so idiots like me would be able to do it at a later date :D

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Thanks for all the comments it really is appreciated :wink:

emm said

I am watching the valve part with interest.  before i go any further :wink:
8O  I was gunna call on your help again "Gulp" … ok… I'll brave it and update you  :?

jellybelly said

Wow!!! love the time your putting into this thread so idiots like me would be able to do it at a later date

think I'm the idiot for going first lol  :wink:

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Really good thread here dude, will be doing this myself before too long, so it's cool to learn about all the awkward bits first :P

Keep it up!
Mat

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Excellent write up…I'll be keeping a close eye on this build thread.  8)

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Thanks for the comments it really does make you push on  :wink:

Smelt petrol when I went in the garage and it appears that the fuel line still leaks a bit of fuel even though it's way higher thean the tank.



I finally twigged this must be due to pressure.  So I undone the filler cap, there was a hiss and the fuel line stopped leaking

Remove the filler cap if you're doing this rebuild :roll:



Grinding In Valves

Yesterday I started grinding in the valves.  The valve seats were seriously pitted.  The new valves took a fair while to grind in (about 4 hours  8O as the stick kept slipping).



I was aiming to remove all pitting from the valve seat and to have a continuous ground mark on the lip of the valve… so…:-

Grab a valve, put a tiny bit of spit on the valve stick and attach the stick to the valve.



Smear on some grinding paste (you are aiming to just get it on the lip where it does a 45 degree angle and nowhere else



Then… stick the valve in the slot… and away you go with the grinding stick…



Take the valve out, clean it off, check the valve seat and apply more grinding paste if needed… do this until each valve sits good with no pitting left on the valve seat.  

The seat should have a continuous unbroken line about half a centimeter (I think) and so should the valve.  Then they're all done..



I then chose to jet wash the head tonight to remove any trace of grinding paste… didn't fancy any of that left in my engine  8O .  Sadly no pics of me getting royally drenched though  :roll:

Crankshaft Removal

Last real job left in dismantling the engine was to remove the crankshaft, crankshaft bearing caps and check the piston barrels for scoring marks.

So.. to remove the crankshaft you need to remove the two casings either side.  They are held on by 10mm bolts and have roughly 6 each side.  Mine had a 13mm bolt on one side and 4 missing bolts  :scratch:  8O .  Here are the two casings.



Once off, you can then undo the 17mm bolts holding the crankshaft on.  



Set out each cap in the same order as you took them off.  These need to go back on the same way.  Here are all 5 of mine with the crankshaft removed



Now the intermediate shaft can come out.  You can see it in the bottom of the pic here



The flange to remove is here:-



Once you remove this, you can then take out the intermediate shaft and put it somewhere clean…



Check Barrels For Scoring

It is important to check that the barrels have not suffered any scoring from any incorrect usage or forced removal.

I checked mine and one of them has a score mark in it.  I was gutted seeing this and my father is taking it to his mechanic freind tomorrow.  He'll let us know where we take it from here.  He's got an engineers place across the road so should be in good hands.  I'll let you know.

here is the scoring mark underneath my thumb.  It stretches right down the barrel  :?



Due to a meet and commitments I won't be updating until maybe the weekend  :dontknow: … damn that scoring

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hi spud, ood progress here.

just wondered if, when you ground in the valves did you use the course paste then fine after. or was just the fine good enough.

i noticed you have the double ended pot!

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Great work again.


I have saved this thread to favorites, its better than haynes, and bentley :D

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Looks good Spud!

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Thanks again fella's… hope my scraped knuckles are worth it for even one person.  :D
 

whatalotafun said

just wondered if, when you ground in the valves did you use the course paste then fine after. or was just the fine good enough.

i noticed you have the double ended pot!

Hi Dean yeah I have a "double ended pot"  :oops: … coarse one end and fine on the other.

Depending on how bad the pitting is… will depend on what you do.  I had probbly 4 runs of the course and then three runs with fine… it's just whatever takes you to an unbroken, unpitted line on both the seat and the valve… probably about half a centimeters worth.

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Friday saw a few hours work.

The Cylinder Scoring

First off I got this tool from my dads mechanic friend.



The tool was then cable tied (to stop scratching) and marked out.  The bottom of the cylinder can destroy the grinding stones.  On the tool face so be carefull and mark out how deep you can go before using it.



Once I've marked it out, I can then spray WD40 into the piston cylinder, place the tool in the drill and go for it  8O … obviously not going past the marker I set on the tool



After a few mins there is still a little bit of a groove but nowhere near as bad (you cant use this tool too long or you'll need a re-bore).  I can either put the other block in (degrease it all, take the pistons, crankshaft etc out) or run with this block… I don't think it's too bad so I'm going to run with this one.  Besides, if it doesn't work I will be semi-certain how to do all this again on the bottom end.  So I've finished this part



The Head

After the cylinder grinding, I decided to mak a start on the head.

Here is the washer and valve stem oil seal to go in.



I found an 11mm socket and extension to help make sure I could put these in properly.  I checked it for fit and it seemed fine.



I put a bit of oil on each one to help with the tight fit.  I then put the seal on using my fingers to make sure it sat properly.  I then tapped the extension bar&socket on top of the seal to make sure it was in correctly.

Once they were all in I made a start on pushing the valves through one by one.  I used a small bit of oil on the valve to help with the install.



It was then time to get the springs and collects on.  Again using the valve spring compressor, I tightened the spring right back.  A smidge of grease on the collets, a magnet and a screwdriver soon got the collets on.  You then obviously slowly remove the valve spring compressor and check that it holds.



You then finish the rest and it all starts looking familiar again



So… now I call on my bin liners with the details and buckets in.  I Placed them out on the table with their label



I install bucket number 1



Then install all the other buckets



I've just put a bag on top of the head and masked off certain areas ready for painting.  This will have to be done when it's not raining though  :roll:

Progressing slowly but hopefully Sunday and Monday should bring a bit more progression  :D

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this thread is really helpfull going to start a rebuild soon and i know ill be coming back here to check im doing it rite
well done mate 8)

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good work spud, nearly there!

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Just a quick note.

Waiting on paint being delivered and I've also sent off the block to my dad's friend's friend  :roll:  (engineering firm).  I want to get the block checked out and do one of the following:-

Use the block as is if he says it's fine
Get the scoring removed and carry on
If it's bad then get it rebored and order new pistons, rings etc

I've come this far so best checking  :wink:

Once the decision is made then I'll paint the block and start the internal refittings on the head and block.

I'll probably clean the ancillarys for now just to get myself ahead.  You don't want pics of that so I'll update when there's a more meaty update  :D

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Top work 8)

Its good getting stuck in :D

I rebuilt my 16v kr, new shells, pistons, rings, gaskets, head rebuild etc, really enjoyed it, one of the best bits of the build.

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Excellent thread dude.  This will be very helpful when i begin rebuilding mine.  Where did you source your vavles, seals etc..

Cheers

Gurj

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gurjdub1983 said

Excellent thread dude.  This will be very helpful when i begin rebuilding mine.  Where did you source your vavles, seals etc..

Cheers

Gurj

Hi mate thanks for the kind words.  

I got them from a company local to were I live.  Most are VAG labelled but not as expensive as VW dealership :roll: .  Got it all from AVP in Corby.  My dad knows the guys there so it was relatively easy.  The exhaust valves come in two sizes I was told.  I took mine in and they ordered them.  The company supplying them sent the wrong ones… AVP were soon on the phone and sorted it out ready for me to pick up the right ones the following morning.  It's been the only bit that was even remotely time consuming

I'm yet to see how it all performs (gaskets, seals etc) so I'll find out how good the parts are and update when the rebuild is finished.

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