Vacuum pipes on original airbox with weber
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Vacuum pipes on original airbox with weber
Posted
Old Timer
Unless I did my vacuum pipes wrong I did the one on the back of the carb to the cold/hot air feed valve on the air intake, while the dizzy advance is connected to the servo via the "big hose", if that makes any sense?
That said, I've no idea where these points connect to so I'd like to be enlightened too :mrgreen:
Posted
Local Hero
You need a t-piece for back of carb, piping from t-piece to carb, left part of t-piece fit piping from there to air filter box as in 1st pic.
Right side of t-piece at back of carb goes to the black and white connector and connect onto left pin of servo pipe as shown in 2nd pic
Then the right pin from servo pipe goes to dizzy.
BUT as in alot of cases some people have snapped one of the pins of the servo pipe, simply add another t-piece and connect both set of pipes.
This is excactly same on all 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb'd blocks, thus no need for the green ball, This applies for weber carb conversions
Pete :wink:
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One more question - how does the airbox fasten to the carburettor. On the ETKA there looks to be a kind of bail you can get, which I think my old mk2 had as well. But I can't remember what it attached to - the carburettor, presumably? Is there provision for this on the Weber?
Posted
Local Hero
A: - Yes, it runs down the arm on the airbox and clips in middle.
Q: - Also, after I put the T-piece at the back of the carb so I can run a line from the airbox to the carb why can't I take the other end straight to the dizzy where it goes to at the moment?
A:- Because he vacuum advance on the dizzy needs the vaccuum which comes from the servo pipe, if you joined to carb only you'd have no vacuum and thus no timing
Q:-how does the airbox fasten to the carburettor. On the ETKA there looks to be a kind of bail you can get, which I think my old mk2 had as well. But I can't remember what it attached to - the carburettor, presumably? Is there provision for this on the Weber?
A:- i had to search ur post to see what block you have, ok a 1.5 and 36 tlp weber. mine is a 1.6 and has the weber 32/34dtml which replaces the pierburg 2E2 carb, plus air filter box is plastic on 1.6 & 1.8 carb blocks & different due to diameter of carb.
On the original carb solex 1b3, it has a metal type handle which pulls over the metal air box, take this off the solex carb as you need it, when you fitted the weber it would have had a bracket that was held on via the 2 bolts your bolt the carb to the manifold (Gold bracket with arrow pointed to it in pic below), on each side of that bracket the
metal handle i told you to remove from original carb clips on the same way.
BUT, you need to do a mod in order for the original air box to fit on the weber, you need to cut with dremmel or like a little bit of the lip on the inside of the air filter box where it sits on the base of carb, i used my friends block to show you where you need to cut on the air box.
Cut a small piece of the lip away so the air filter box fits snug all the way around the base, cut round on airbox just that little part of bracket where the arrow points in the pic.
Any further help, don't hesitate to ask fella
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" VACUUM ADVANCE CONNECTION
a. 1.5 litre models Kit No. 15310802 only - Fit the new vacuum advance pipe (12) supplied, to the distributor vacuum capsule and the vacuum tube 'C' located at the rear of the carburettor"
So given that this is how the instructions advise it, and how mine is now (and running great), I'm presuming it will be all right to do as I suggested before and run it from the t-piece I will be putting at the back of the carb straight to the dizzy?
Also, I trial fitted it the other day and it fits snug on the carb with no modification required - perhaps either 'cos I have the 36 tlp not the 32/34dtml, or because I have the earlier metal type airbox. Either way, it appears like it goes on no trouble, which is how it should I think 'cos the instructions advise using the original airbox and imply it's a direct fit.
One other thing I asked earlier - where does the other end of the air pipe attach to? There's a bracket next to the radiator that it looks like it goes through, but then what, does it just hang loose?
Posted
Local Hero
I know my carb's, had a 1.3 big block(Puzzled?) 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 blocks, mk1, mk2 golf's & scirocco's bud.
Of course the air filter is metal on yours, they only came on the 1.5's Solex 1B3, and 1.6 'Pre 1980' with 2B2 carb which is also uses same JB block as the 1.5, but not going into it.
You clearly have things missing and not accepting the correct info from me, yet advise i give you is owning and experience in these blocks.
Show me pics of your carb as it is, also give me pic of other issues you might need help with, just concerned i will type good advise and not taken on board
Pete
Posted
Old Timer
~Madferret
Mk1 1457cc 5door GX '83
Mk1 1457cc 5door GX '83
Posted
Local Hero
Oh your spelling is spot on, i checked google
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Newbie
Posted
Local Hero
Pete :wink:
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Newbie
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Newbie
why does it go into the check valve thanks
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Help needed - pictures missing
Peddersgolf said
Can Mods or the like make this a sticky has it as been asked on many occasion, Much appreciated.
You need a t-piece for back of carb, piping from t-piece to carb, left part of t-piece fit piping from there to air filter box as in 1st pic.
Right side of t-piece at back of carb goes to the black and white connector and connect onto left pin of servo pipe as shown in 2nd pic
Then the right pin from servo pipe goes to dizzy.
BUT as in alot of cases some people have snapped one of the pins of the servo pipe, simply add another t-piece and connect both set of pipes.
This is excactly same on all 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb'd blocks, thus no need for the green ball, This applies for weber carb conversions
Pete :wink:
Hi newbie here , just fitting Weber 36TLP to 1.5 cab.
Just need clear guide on fitting the vacuum pipes - all the pics seem to have disappeared here and on the 'how to' tutorial..could they possibly be replaced.
Many thanks.
Posted
Local Hero
This is easy how to just follow pics, connection is same on 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 carb blocks.
These pics are form a 1.6, i do have ones from a 1.5 but it is finding them.
You need a T-piece i.e 3 way plastic adapter and some vac piping shown in last pic is diagram how to connect pipes to give you better idea
Pete :wink:
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Excellent explanation on where these vacuum pipes need to be connected and why. I will check on my cabriolet.
Cheers
Omar!
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You show left and right nipples on the servo pipe whereas the auto only seems to have a single nipple. Do I need to put in an additional T-piece and one way valve and if so which way round does it go. Any ideas.
Posted
Local Hero
My friends 1.5 manual had a broken one, simply as you suggest add another t-piece to the one remaining servo nipple then again follow same as diagram, left side of t piece is the pipe with non return valve going to the carb, then right to dizzy bud.
Hope i explain clearly, if not i am sure i took a pic of my friends as a diagram for others whom broken a nipple on servo pipe, i will look for them and post them up
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….and presumably try to seal off the broken nipple so there are no air leaks.Peddersgolf said
It's the same as thou a nipple as been broken on the servo pipe as it is common.
My friends 1.5 manual had a broken one, simply as you suggest add another t-piece to the one remaining servo nipple then again follow same as diagram, left side of t piece is the pipe with non return valve going to the carb, then right to dizzy bud.
Hope i explain clearly, if not i am sure i took a pic of my friends as a diagram for others whom broken a nipple on servo pipe, i will look for them and post them up
Do you know if replacement pieces with two nipples can still be purchased, and where from?
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