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Instrument cluster repair

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Has anyone sent there instrument cluster away to be repaired as the ones originally in my car are playing up,

Rev counter stops working and the MFA screen goes blank when i turn the lights on, the back lights don't illuminate when I turn the lights on and the oil buzzer buzzes for fun. The MFA screen would also benefit from replacing as its a bit dim to read.

The cluster itself looks perfect, no obvious damage to the blue flexi board on the back, I did have some of the components replaced on the oil buzzer board in the hope that would solve the buzzing.

Currently got another set in but even they are iffy with a worn connector plug (works its way loose ticking over) and a oil buzzer that will randomly go off. I have fitted VDO gauges and that reads good pressure with no drop when the buzzer comes on so I'm pretty sure that the instrument cluster is the issue.

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I have tried asking this question on the forum before and it seems very hard to find an answer unfortunately.
Your basic auto electrician won't really know where to look from my experience.

But hopefully someone might be able to come back to us with an answer

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I had a go Googling it, but everywhere seems to be either the latest stuff or the old analogue dials with nothing in between.

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The rev counter stop working and MFA going blank when turning the lights on is down to a broken earth cable in the engine bay, there should be a brown earth wire on the rear right hand side of the rocker cover ( standing in front of the car looking at the engine) There should be a thicker earth cable from the coil and the thinner wire I've mentioned.
Check to see if that's missing, hanging on by a few threads of wire or hanging off completely.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Instrument cluster repair

Couple things on these clocks
The 10V stabiliser can go iffy.
This feeds supply to the clock.

Make sure that the cocks are earthed via the rocker cover to the coil mounting bracket bolt.
On DX engines.

Poor clock connection can be cured by cleaning the copper pads on the foil and then wrap a few turns of electrical tape over the plastic nib it fits over.
Once it’s connected it’s a tighter fit.





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"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time" 

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I've got a good earth in the engine bay, the other set of clocks I have all work other than no back lights and the oil buzzer will randomly go off. I'll look at getting a replacement 10v stabiliser then in the hope that will solve the problems!

Cheers!

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a 10v stabilizer is only used to power the Fuel and water Gauge.

The bulbs all the rest are on the 12V circuit.

Bulbs go bad, that is a sad fact, and I found that if I haven't changed them in a few years I will replace them all out of hand.

The buzzer goes because of a possible flaky connection,

If you haven't Plumped your connector, then you need to add a dedicated ground splice to the Brown wire.

But you need to verify that you have 12V at the 10V stabilzer, to pin 2(brown) ground.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Ok, I'll try and have another go tomorrow at fixing the issues, thanks! 
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