1983 MK1 Golf GTi Fuel Pump Relay

Hi all,

Request for some assistance please.

My fuel pump relay burnt out yesterday late night, only 1 mile away from home. Called Admiral Breakdown, which were useless as we waited over 2 hours for assistance.

I then remembered to use No 17 relay as an emergency plan which started the car and I managed to drive back home.

This is the second relay I have purchased from Euro Car Parts in one year, both burnt out. I have come to a conclusion that this brand (JP Group) is cheap and useless.

Can you please advise me where I can purchase a genuine fuel pump relay or of an equivalent quality? Appreciate if you an send me the link.

Thank you very much for your help and support

Don't think you can get new but maybe try werks34 in Germany or try eBay or wanted add for a 2nd hand genuine VW relay.

Always best to keep a spare 17 relay in the glove box or a think bit of wire to bridge the 2 bigger connection to get you home and saves time waiting at the side of the road…

Also have a check in your fuel tank for rust etc as there may be a blockage and that is causing your fuel pumps to work harder and that could be causing the relay to burn out….

Thanks mark.
I will check the tank for rust or blockage. Will also check fuel filter.
I installed new fuel lines and got the WUR and Metering head overhauled by KMI Injection and put new injectors as well.
The car has been ranked up a few times in the past year.

Are the relays from VW Heritage good?

Pic of burnt relay

I think the issue may be the amperage.
This JP Group relay which burnt out is 30 amp, should it be 40amp?

Probably a couple of things here, when was the last time that you reseated your relays and fuses?  Why you ask?  It cleans the connections and stops heat related corrosion, and allows things to run cooler.  30A sounds as over kill for a fuel pump, as I would say clean your connections on the pump as well…

I failed to reseat the a/c hose in the add-on fuse holder, and it toasted… So I quickly reseated my other cars, as it was one of those on the top that are hard to get to.

I also installed a Circuit breaker instead of a fuse…

Hi Briano, I re-seated all relays and fuses a few months back. Gave the fuse / relay panel a good clean.

The original relay I had burnt out due to water, the sunroof drains were blocked which led to water going in. I sorted all that out.

This relay I have had doubts since installation as I always noticed a ticking sound as I rev the engine the ticking sound was faster. This relay lasted 6 months before it burnt out.

I'm going to inspect the fuel tank this week.

I ordered a new relay, Topran brand.

Hi all,
Just an update. My new relay arrived and I have installed it. I ordered through the AutoDoc application, brilliant prices for good brand.

So I inspected a few things.

Looked inside the fuel tank and I can see internal corrosion which doesn't look good.



Checked the strainer, looks ok



However when removing the strainer, I noticed some corroded particles gathered on one side



Also the filler neck has corrosion on the outside



I plan to replace the fuel tank, filler neck, fuel filter and inspect / replace the fuel pump filter.

Any suggestions from your side? What would you conclude to looking at the pics?

Thanks

Did a bit of reading and I understand after market fuel tanks are not that great. So I plan to get the original fuel tank professionally restored.

Any recommendations of where I can get this done?

Searching the net I came across Hartlepool Radiator Company Ltd., they provide 3  year warranty. Anyone used them? Are they good?

Thanks

Hi all, appreciate your advice please. I see a couple of fellow members had used Hartlepool Radiators to restore their tanks. Looks like a cracking job but I see the top of the swirl pot missing. I spoke to them and they said that this is removed for access and can try their best to fit it back on (didn't sound like a definate). If the top is missing doesn't this defeat the object of the filteration design? If this is how I am going to receive it, what alternative options do I have for filteration of fuel before the pump? Thanks.

Attached are pics of swirl pot missing the top and pics of my current swirl pot.

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk

Unfortunately didn't get any response from anyone so decided to send the fuel tank for full overhaul by Hartlepool Radiators. They did a cracking job and ensured the swirl pot cap was reattached the best they could, as previous members had an issue with the cap missing.

All filters replaced and the car is running good so far.

Hope this helps.

awesome stuff, looks like a cracking job!

Hi All,

I'm back after burning another 2 fuel pump relays. Car runs fine for a couple of months then the relay gives up. Just sick and tired of this. Fuse box contacts are good and re-seated the relays and fuses.

It seems that the relay overtime is wearing out due to the load, which is pointing to the fuel pump.

The fuel pump makes a buzzing sound when priming, but when the engine is started, you can hear much as the engine sound is louder.

The complete fuel system, except the fuel pump, has been overhauled.

Any thoughts before I purchase a new pump?

Also Briano mentioned installing a circuit breaker, appreciate some guidance on how I can install it and what material is required, what amp breaker needed?. The circuit breaker can help save the expensive relay from burning.

Thanks.

The fuel pump being heard over the running of the car indicates to me that you either have a pump going bad.
or
A restriction in the fuel delivery to the pump, as the whine is a indication that it is cavitating the fuel, because the supply is being starved.

A 83 doesn't have a in-tank pump, and you have cleaned out the swirl pot, but you may have a bad filter, accumulator or hoses that are breaking down internally, rubber fuel hoses don't last forever….

I would think about replacing the hoses prior to or at the same time as replacing the pump…..Be sure that you have good Grounds to the Motor as a iffy ground can cause the pump to run funny, as well as if you haven't replaced your Battery to Frame and Frame to engine/Tranny ground you may want to do that as almost 40 year old cables are probably past their prime.

 

Thanks Briano….will look into it.

Can you please advise your set up for the circuit breaker, any pictures or guides would help a lot.

Cheers

Did you check the inlet pipe on the main pump some have a mesh filter basket inserted which might be clogged. If its a genuine GTI tank have a good look at the swirl pot as the rubber seal rots away preventing it from working properly.

If it's a pattern tank make sure it's been built properly maybe the feed pipe isnt hooked up to the pot or partially.blocked with weld or something

Hi rubjonny, it's the original GTi tank which I had refurbished recently. Mesh is ok, new filler neck pipe was also installed.

Everything in the fuel system, apart from the fuel pump and accumulator replaced / overhauled.

Burnt 3 fuel pump relays, so I am suspecting the pump. It does make a buzzing sound when it is operating. I also had a look at the check valve. The valve is ok, and does open freely one way. When I removed the valve there was some brown corrosion but soon cleared out with the fuel coming out.

I'm just about to order a new pump. I thought I'd purchased a fused relay this time (previously non fused) and I will fit a circuit breaker in the relay circuit to protect the components, but need some guidance on which type of circuit breaker I should fit and what grade wiring to use.  

Thanks

It wasn't filled with tank sealer was it? Doesn't always do the pot any favours…

No sealer I believe.
Tank was overhauled by Hartlepool Radiators. They coated the inside using a material called Renu, which is known in the US market.
Even before overhauling the tank, I burnt a couple of fuel pump relays before.