Mk1 Caddy

yes still got it if you fancy a trip down, also just broken a gti cabby so have a shed load of spares if you need anything else.

As the photos appear to be working for me…. a little update.

So, after advisories on the last 2 mots for a rusty exhaust, I looked into a custom stainless and got quoted around £500 so that has gone out the window for a bit and I started to look around for a standard one.

After searching on fleabay, and entering "caddy 1.6" instead of the usual "mk1 caddy" I found a new one for £36. As that included delivery (!) it would have been rude not to buy it, so I did.

The welds didn't appear to have been painted and the tail pipe exits at a slightly different angle but I can't really complain for £36.



There's also a small link pipe on the new one that made fitting so simple, (not in the pictures). A bit of paint on the welds and gunk on the joints and we're good to go.



No idea why the old exhaust was given advisories  can't see what's wrong with it (and yes, the tape actually held one of the brackets on)

 

Looks fine!

Well, the strip down started (a week or so ago, but it's been cold / snowing since and I've only just got round to sorting the pictures…) Mid strip



Jobs left to do include undoing the drive shafts and then dropping it out, so just the simple bits !

I'm a bit concerned about the colour inside the coolant hoses though, but nothing that a good flush shouldn't sort out (fingers crossed  )

EEK  

Lack of coolant at some point then  

Hope you're labeling all those wires so you know what came from where  

Give me a yell if you need a hand

Ian

Someone been silly. Not putting anti freeze in
As it stops rusting in engine block.
But anti freeze finds all the leeks  

It's an old farm vehicle that appears to have had the radiator replaced at some point in the past, perhaps from a bump (plenty of blue over spray on various bits of wiring, it's just something else to do… flush clean, maybe clean/replace the water pump, we'll see.

Anyway, all of drive shaft bolts have now been loosened somewhat surprisingly, (oil leaks are good for somethings I suppose) so I moved to the inlet and am left with the hidden bolt. Is there a special way to remove it ? I can get an allen key on it, but as soon as I try to turn off it pops (swearing doesn't seem to help) Do I actually need to take it off to get the engine out?

I haven't looked at the pile of rust that pretends to be the exhaust manifold yet either but as that will probably be replaced, it may be cut off.

I may be on the phone Borednow when it comes to actually dropping it, thanks for the offer

It doesn't need to come of to get the engine out, but it is a bit easier.

I wonder if it's been stripped a bit or something, I seem to remember there is a proper pain in the bum one.

It may be that the exhaust manifold needs to come off to get the inlet off. I'm assuming diesels are the same as petrol ones of course, which they probably aren't!

Ian

It is the hard-to-get one and it seems like I need a long 'ball end' hex key to get it out - something to buy I suppose

I wouldn't know about diesels though…

You can leave the inlet manifold on the head and still pull the engine out, you can leave the exhaust manifold on as well. I can see you have removed the radiator etc so just pull the engine forward when lifting it out or are you dropping the engine on the floor and lifting the car up?

I did find it easier putting my engine in without the gearbox attached as there's more room so next time I pull the engine out I'm going to take the gearbox off as well, I did pull it out with the gearbox attached, you have to get it on a good angle to get past the brake servo etc as I'd left that all in place.

keep up the good work

Now you see it



And now you don't



I thought this was a build thread, but I keep taking bits off ! Anyway, the reason for all of this work, the crunchy hole beneath the gator and the slightly rusty patch. It doesn't look too bad but the pictures flatter it.



Just the steering rack to remove next and then we can start fixing again - the rest of the bay is surprisingly solid, with a bit of surface rust here and there so that'll get cleaned and treated

One surprise we got as the 1.6 engine swung around on the hoist was the numbers on the back which might explain why it went surprisingly well for a 1.6



Yep, it says 1.8, the engine number appears to be 026103373Q and have a build date of quarter 3, 1986, can anyone confirm what it is out of? When I bought it, I changed the cam belt and used one for a 1.6 without any problems though.

Finally, none of this could have been done without the help and assistance of Borednow, cheers chap you are a star, much appreciated.
 

pretty sure they use the same block casting in 1.6 and 1.8 only way to tell is from engine no. i have that inner wing panel if you want to repair properly

A bit more done… (by 'done', I mean taken off)



I am constantly amazed by how every bolt and nut (so far) has come off with no real problems - even the bottom gearbox mount however yesterday a split pin at the end of the steering rod stopped play. It decided it want to fall apart so I can't get it out. I'm going to try to drill it out later.

The rubber boots seem to fall apart when I look at them though so that'll be something else on the list.

Sporttrucker… I'll definitely take you up on you offer and there's probably going to be a few more bits, I'll make a list  

Check what the engine code is on the front of the block near cylinder 3 as that will tell you what engine it is, VW seemed to use some 1.8 bare engine blocks to build 1.6 engines.

So after several hours trying to remove a blinking split pin and seeing that I can get a new rod for not very much (another for the list of things I need to buy) I dug out the disk cutter and it's off.

When I say 'off', the nut is off but I can't get the rod out of the hub. I tried a gentle tap and a much harder one, I also tried my hub puller yet the thing refuses to budge even a little bit and so I've swept up the rust and given up for the time being.

You need a ball joint splitter to remove the track rod end from the hub, the track rod as a slight tapper on the end as does the hub so it’s wedged in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIHhB4CVaBc

You will need to screw the nut on a little to stop it damaging the end of the track rod or if you are fitting a new track don't worry about it.

Something like this.
This type usually does not destroy the rubber boot on the track rod end.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOINT-SEPARATOR-HEAVY-DUTY-20-50MM-SCISSOR-TYPE-SPLITTER-TIE-ROD-END/191242202895?epid=1162759277&hash=item2c86ec6f0f:g:CccAAOSwd4tTvmgw

Or the cheaper type will cut and destroy the rubber boot.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORK-BALL-JOINT-SEPERATOR-SPLITTER-BREAKER-8-200mm-TIE-ROD-END-LIFTER-SEPARATOR/252276680021?epid=1736877381&hash=item3abcdca555:g:YaIAAOSwQJhUk6bw

New toy…. £6.50 from the local market



And after a bit more cutting and grinding and hitting with a large hammer, the steering rack has gone



And now I can see the problems I have





And the drain hole needs a bit of work



Other than that, it's not looking too bad - it seems that the steering rack was held on with copper nuts so they all came off with no problems with the original primer beneath them  - just 2 new track rods to add to the increasingly large list of things I need to buy Anyway, any ideas what the little box is under the coil? It seems to be something that's been added at some point and I think that it stopped running properly when I knocked one of the connections off - it went to the earth on the battery and has blue connectors both ends

No-one knows..? Anyway, the strip down continues…

We've started the clean up of the engine bay and it's looking pretty good under all of the dirt other than all of the rusty bits.



And the inlet and exhaust manifolds have also been removed. The difficult to get at bolt on the inlet rounded off after trying to remove it with an allen key but a 'spline drive ' attachment hammered in soon had it out.

All of the exhaust bolts came out as well, but 2 were 12mm and the rest were slightly smaller, neither metric or imperial seemed to fit, not sure if they were supposed to be like that but an 11mm socket tapped on soon sorted them as well! (The hammer is getting some use.)

However I'm now left with 3 exhaust studs removed but the rest are still in the block, do I try to remove the rest and risk making a mess or just fit a couple of new studs??? I'm thinking the latter…

The list of bits needed keeps getting longer as the rubber bits on top of the suspension don't appear to be in great shape so'll need changing and the heater motor fan is seized solid which might explain why it kept blowing fuses

Anyway, nothing to see here…  .

That little box isn't standard. You'll have to trace the wire s to see what it's connected too…….

Sounds like you're having fun anyway.

Lists always get longer  

Ian