Mynx the Tintop 1400 16v afh bike carb'd restomod

Help me out, what's your total timing and your idle timing? I'm currently running about 10 degrees advance at idle and 35 degrees total advance all in by 3000 rpm. Really curious what your timing curve looks like. Mine pulls hard up high but I'm still working on tuning out a flat spot on tip in without having an overly rich mixture while cruising.

nedrager said

Help me out, what's your total timing and your idle timing? I'm currently running about 10 degrees advance at idle and 35 degrees total advance all in by 3000 rpm. Really curious what your timing curve looks like. Mine pulls hard up high but I'm still working on tuning out a flat spot on tip in without having an overly rich mixture while cruising.

Sorry mate, can't help with that I'm afraid.

One of things I have learnt in this build is that I can't do everything. Engines and tuning are not my bag really. I can bolt stuff to them but getting the maximum out of them is a job for an expert and I'm certainly not one.

The guys who did the tuning messed around with the timing but I don't know what they did in the end.

Is there a way I measure it for you?

Ian

If you have access to a timing light with adjustable advance it would be possible. The easiest way would be to connect the timing light, point it at the cam wheels and turn the advance up until the two dots on the cam wheels align. That would give the advance at idle, i'm guessing it would be between 10 and 15 degrees. To get total timing is the same procedure but the motor would have to be turning 3000 rpm+, again guessing it's somewhere between 32 and 37 degrees. To get a plot of the timing curve you would have to check it incrementally as your revving it up and the rpm would have to be pretty stable and better still the timing light is a nice one with digital advance. Or it may be that a quick call to your tuner will get you the answer fast and easy lol.

I'm going to assume that your tuner only adjusted the timing via turning the distributor and hasn't opened up the unit and physically changed the timing curve by changing the advance weights, springs and stops?

I ask because these engines are computer controlled so there's simply not much info out on what the timing curve looks like since it's variable based on a 3D map stored in the ECU.

Edit: Bit of useless knowledge, I was f@ckin about in the garage and was able to figure out the factory setting for the AFH is 35 degrees advance total timing when set up by the book.

Nope had a check with him and they just turned it by hand. He couldn't remember what he'd set it to. I'll see if I can find my timing light   

So what you been up too then Ian, I hear you cry!

Well Ujum has gone to a new home in South Wales under the care of a young lad who intends to re-build him from the ground up and install an AFH as well. Good man  

So I've managed 500 miles so far so the running in oil needs coming out and new oil going in.

Only problems so far have been issues with a cheap fuel pump failing then the fuel tank ballooning due to a kinked breather and the fuel cap not venting.

Also made it to a show, broke down on the way back but got there!

So back to the music install.

Doors being finished with sound deadening etc.



Then after completing the first set of door cards I didn't like them so it was a case of re-do.



Then it was a case of ripping the car to bits to get at the fuel tank and remove it, beat it with a hammer to get it back to shape then do the same with the rear seat base shape.







As you can see the seat base had been pushed up quite significantly by the tank. This obviously needed checking so off came the beam again, all the suspension and exhaust and finally the tank out.

Of course bu taking stuff out it's impossible to check to see if lines were kinked as they obviously staighten during the removal. However after replacing all the breathers with firmer pipe and putting it all back together again I seem to be ok so far.

Also added more heat protection matting to the underside.



and then putting it all back together again

Then move onto the rear build,

I wanted the sub in the spare wheel well so a bit of calculating was required to ensure the correct litre age was available for the sub to work properly.



Framework in.

Followed by the mdf cover etc



During all this time I've still been using Mynx as much as possible too.

I love your MK1 Ian. Genius idea not painting it!    

Hairyarse said

I love your MK1 Ian. Genius idea not painting it!    

Cheers mate.

Couldn't decide on a colour 😁

So a bit more done today. Wanted to try and get the panel to cover the rear lights done as this will kinda set the position of the sub cover section.

So usual method of construction, cut some mdf to size, add some foam, then cover with vinyl. Sounds easy, but it's still a good couple of hours work.

Anyway, some Piccies.







And the finished article in situ.




Just gotta do the vinyl on the hatch slam panel to cover the price of quarter round and make everything smooth.

Whilst waiting for some glue to dry, I thought I'd sit down and write down a spec list for Mynx.

Haven't really done it yet and it'd possibly be interesting.

Shell
1983 (Y) 3dr CL model
Bonnet from 92 cabrio
Aerial delete
wing mirrors delete
Rear wash and wipe deleted
Boot lock and trigger deleted, replaced with popper
Rear seams leaded and smoothed
Rear arches seam welded and trimmed back.
Underside 'Raptored' over original VW sealing paint layer.
GTI anti roll bar added to rear beam.
Cabrio front anti roll bar
Powdercoated: new tank, rear beam, suspension hardware, front wishbones, front ARB, filler neck, front bearing carriers and as many nuts and bolts as I could.
Super Pro bushes all around
Engine bay smoothed and all non required holes and tabs removed, welded and smoothed as required.
Smoked rear lights
Smoked front lights
Early chrome door handles
Left hand drive wiper conversion (RHD holes welded and leaded)
Full metal scuttle tray
Porsche 356 style mirrors
Hella polished fuel filler cap
Polished side strips
Single light grill with custom painted VW logo.
Front light trim rings
Custom modified mk1 polo rear bumper
Interior and Engine bay painted in a custom mixed colour 'Dragon Black'
Exterior scotched and painted with 4 coats of 2k clear.

Brakes
mk2 scirocco gti 16v 256 front calipers and carriers, painted Petronas Green
mk4 golf aluminum rear calipers, painted Petronas Green
mk2 golf gti 16c ear brake carriers
Miltek black coated discs all round
New Cupra nickel lines through out
Power Assistance removed along with balance bar
Master Cylinder from Seat Leon Cupra R, (required modification to steering tube to work.
Brake fluid reservoir from Rover 25.
Brake lines run through scuttle and along seams in engine bay.

Fueling
10mm copper fuel lines throughout
3no filters
Facet Solid State Hi flow, low pressure fuel pump
Cotton braided soft lines
Fuel pressure regulator valve in engine bay
New fuel tank (powdercoated)
New filler neck (powdercoated)
New breather lines

Electrics
100 Amp Gel Battery from a Range Rover
Electric Windows
Central Locking
Smart alarm with Total Closure
Boot Popper
Interior light moved to above Rear View Mirror
LED lights through out dash and interior lighting
Headlight upgrade loom installed at fuse box
Battery moved to boot
Auxiliary electrics installed including hidden USB charging ports, 12v port in boot, boot opening pick up installed for interior lights.
Wiring run in inner wing
Horn hidden in inner wing
Engine bay loom chopped, lengthened and replaced as required and relocated.
All LED bulbs for all lights.
Washer bottle removed and swapped for bag hidden under scuttle tray
Passenger door and boot pick ups installed for interior lights

Engine & Chassis
1400cc DOHC 16v 'AFH' Engine from Polo Gti, completely rebuilt using all new VW parts where possible.
Block left rusty, detailed in Petronas green, and clear coated with clear
Head and Cam cover painted in grey
CBR 600 carbs
Home made carb manifold
Late mk2 polo dizzy
T-25 coil
Mixed lead set.
Polo GT Gear box (code 8p)
New powder coated drive shafts with new CV's
Original steering rack, stripped, refurbed. Original steering rack gaitors!
New TCA's, ball joints.
All new bearings through out
JTL Coilovers
New front top mounts.

Interior
1945 Ford Interior rear view mirror
MX5 front seats
All door cards re-made
Rear panel cover panel
Rear boot build
Type 3 interior door handles
Electric Windows
Original Speedo and Mileometer
GTI rev counter install instead of original fuel guage and temp guage.
Back light to instruments with LED bulbs
Werk 34 new switches throughout
Cabrio wash wipe stalk
Refurbed dash
New heater matrix and fan motor.
3 bulk packs of Silent Coat
Dodo mat 'Dodo Pro Barrier MLV'
5mm closed cell foam.


ICE
Alpine CDE 9880 R - head unit (lights up green!)
DLS CA41 4 channel amp
DLS CA31 3 channel amp
DLS 5.25" XSD52 speakers, in front of front door pods
DLS 6" Reference speakers in rear of front door pods
DLS Performance 7x13 in rear door cards
DLS Reference W712 12" sub in boot enclosure.

I'm sure I'll update as remember more!

Ian

So a bit more done today









Just hinges and opening tags to install and that'll be the back bit done. Yay!

Just the amp bed to do then and clean up all the wiring.

That's looking rather plush Ian  

Cheers Andy,

As the boot is know part of the car that was the general idea.

Well after about 100 hours or so it's virtually there! Who'd have thought it'd take so flaming long!

Piccies?

Oh go on then!



A rear bumper has also been installed.

I wasn't a big fan of the small metal mk1 golf bumpers after putting them on the car. They looked ok but didn't quite do it for me somehow.

Luckily in 'Ian's stash of hard to find items' was a set of mk1 polo metal bumpers from the series one polo. These are smoother and have a different profile.

Of course they also don't fit so some modification and some fabbing up of the mounts was required as well.
they are also longer, weirdly enough, so the polo must be wider in the bottom than the golf!

Anyway a pic of welding in progress (it's my brother in law doing this bit of welding!)



and finally on (need to be cleared again and cut back but they'll do for a while.



You might also be able to make out that the clear coat has finally been colour sanded and polished too.

Took another 20 hrs! 1500 grit, 2000 grit, 2500 grit, compound x2 different grades, polish, sealer and 3 coasts of wax.

Well as I'm know officially aching in every muscle I didn't know I had and my fingers have no prints left but are now covered in about an inch of contact adhesive, I might actually leave her alone for a bit………….. once I do an oil change as I've finally managed the 500 miles of running in on the engine so it needs changing out.

Just minor tweaks and stuff to do now. Plus as she's off on a 600 mile round trip over xmas we'll see if anything breaks.

Wish me luck and thanks for reading

Ian

Great job on the interior. It looks really good - understated but class.

Cracking MK1 all round mate  

Looks well!  Just had a read through the build and noticed you've used the raptor stuff.  

Is it something you can paint over?


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Hairyarse   - cheers mate. That's what I was going for!  Simon_p
whatcha mate.

You can paint over it. it does come in two different types as well.
Black
Tintable, the tintable one being one you add colour to and make it the same shade as your paint code.

Seems to work well, but it is incredible sensitive to proper prep. I do have areas underneath where it has cracked. My own fault as I was thinking it was more like gravitex which sticks like; well we all know what that stuff sticks like!

In other news, Mynx completed a 600 miles round trip through sunshine, sleet, rain and snow over christmas.

Nothing fell off, nothing broke and she made it with no issues!

I have discovered a whine in 5th (I'm assuming the gear box is on it's way out) and a squeek at low speeds. I think the front drive shaft nut may be a little tight.

Considering I'm well pleased!  Ian
 

Wow you have been a busy lad ! Loving the music install and the polo bumpers look really good. Look forward to seeing her out in the sun


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Cheers Jamie.

Front bumper now done too. Pics to follow!

Anyhoo,

I've not been able to get Mynx sitting how I want and still be able to have any suspension at all in the rear. Probably down to my wheel and tyre choice tbh! But still never mind.
Despite trying 'raising' blocks that mount above the shocks on the rear to effectively lower the point of contact under the mounting poitn which should make the shocks longer and hence lift the back I'm still not happy with the ride or the look.

So I'm trying some different coilovers.

Vogtland









The first ones to come with a decent spanner if nothing else  

Seem to have coarser thread than the NJT's that are on there at the moment so hopefully will be easier to move. They also have a locking nut in the ring rather than a second collar below the perch so I'm hoping they will again be easier to work with.

 From my research it appears that KW make the dampers and Vogtland make the springs. Which would make sense as Vogtland have been making springs for over 100 years.
I wouldn't be surprised if Vogtland make the the springs for KW as we all know how these manufacturers go hand in hand.

These ones are not adjustable for re-bound or stiffness in the shocks as I figure KW probably know a lot more about this than I do.

After a bit of research I was amazed at what I found to be honest. Weitec have been bought by 'Stance' who, surprise surprise, are owned by KW.

Seems to be a lot of hand in glove stuff going on at the moment!

The NJT's that will be coming of were adjustable for hardness as the GAZ ones on the Derby and tbh I usually end up leaving them on their softest settings and never adjust them again.

I ended up finding the Vogtlands for £431 from Lowerks.com which is around £100 cheaper than from Vogtland themselves in Germany and around £150 cheaper than anywhere else in the UK!

Hopefully they should be going on today or tomorrow so I shall see if they're any good or if I've just wasted another £431.

Ian

Ian,
I'd like to get your opinion on ride quality of the Vogtlands versus some other mk1 setups. I have KWs at the moment and find them a bit harsh.

nedrager  Initial impressions are very good.

I have a cabby on JOMS and this ones rides far better now. Much, much better than the NJT's I've taken off.

My Bro in Law has a Bilstein B4 and 30mm or 40mm Eibach Lowering springs set up and I'd say it's on par with that, maybe even a bit more compliant.

It's firm but not bouncy or solid. Speed bumps can be taken at a reasonable pace and my road is a real tester as it has dips and heave and speed bumps all over it and she now rides fine down it.

Got to get the tracking and camber checked but seems good so far.

I also chucked on some other wheels I purchased a few weeks ago for a look to see if they are worth re-furbing.

I think they look rather good.

Exips