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Mellow Yellow 3.2ltr 24v Conversion

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bigw2069 said

Do you remember what clutch/flywheel combo you used? I note the usual g60/vr6 option doesn't have enough holes in the flywheel for the mk5 24v.

You don't need anything from a G60.

It depends which gearbox route you go. If 02a / 02j 5speed 6 cyl bell housing then VR6 flywheel and vr6 clutch. My engine is a mk5 generation 24v.

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Thanks, I've got an 02A CCM going on to a BUB, I stumbled on the Darkside Developments 8kg SMF which looks to tick the boxes.

Was yours a DSG? I've heard some things about the needle bearing on the end of the crankshaft, unsure whether to just remove now going manual.

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bigw2069 said

Thanks, I've got an 02A CCM going on to a BUB, I stumbled on the Darkside Developments 8kg SMF which looks to tick the boxes.

Was yours a DSG? I've heard some things about the needle bearing on the end of the crankshaft, unsure whether to just remove now going manual.

I started with a CCM and now have a V5 gearbox and added a diesel 5th gear for the shorter ratios 1-4 and a long 5th.

You don't need to spend a fortune on the clutch and flywheel. I bought my VR6 flywheel and Sachs VR6 clutch from Darkside and only came to £300 all in.

The needle bearing doesn't need to be removed. I still have mine in. If you can remove it then it wouldn't hurt.

No part of the 02a or 02j input shaft will engage with it :).

Any questions give me a shout  :thumbs:

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You're a star, Ta.

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6A54CA03-000B-436F-B068-CBCE6E0CF760.jpeg

Was it 066260087A you used for your accessory bracket and did you trim it?

Half thinking of getting the eurowise mini alternator and bracket setup as I'm working in the states in October.

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bigw2069 said

  6A54CA03-000B-436F-B068-CBCE6E0CF760.jpeg

Was it 066260087A you used for your accessory bracket and did you trim it?

Half thinking of getting the eurowise mini alternator and bracket setup as I'm working in the states in October.

I thought about the Eurowise route but if the alternator failed it's an expensive item to source from the states again. The stock R32 alternator fits well even with the massive Eurowise radiator. Check back through my build as there are clearance pictures.

I can't remember what the part number was but this was mine and I chopped the aircon compressor section off the bottom.

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So Update time. I've added a digital fuel pressure sensor, a VW part from a later Golf which connects to my canchecked gauge. I detected the stock Audi fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator was letting 4.5bar of fuel to the rail at idle rather than 4. This caused me some low down power loss as the car was running super rich. Plus the car stank of fuel at idle.

I replaced the filter with a new one and dead on 4bar. I'm wondering if my Bosch 040 pump is over working the regulator as I believe the filters have quite a restrictive return. At least I can monitor it now and will probably add an aftermarket FPR in the future.

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VID_20220825_163402397.mp4

 

Last edit: by Rich.

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Finally got round to adding the seat adjuster handles to my Corrado seats.

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But…. What do I do about the height adjuster handle. It collides with the seat position handle  :lol:.


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Finally sorted out the doors and boot install.

Maximised Mid bass with my 5 1/4 inch components by sealing the door, sound proofing inside and out. Made an aluminium panel to seal the large opening, bead rolled the outer edge so the panel sits in the door allowing clearance for the door cards.

Also added clearance for the tweeters like the cabriolets by cutting holes in the door skin to accommodate them.

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Last edit: by Rich.

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It's no wonder you need all the extra horses to haul that lot around!
Epic and well engineered job as usual!

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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paceman said

It's no wonder you need all the extra horses to haul that lot around!
Epic and well engineered job as usual!

Ha thank you. Doesn't really add that much weight.

I think of it as ballast to counter the heavy nose :lol:

You wouldn't notice it with how quick the thing is  :lol:  :thumbs: .

Last edit: by Rich.

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Hey Rich, please could you explain how you wired in the brake light switch if you don't mind.
I currently have just the stock 2 pin for brake lights.
I can see on pin 55 on ecu is for brake light switch. I have that wire not connected.
Is that the only wire I need to connect with a 3 pin switch or is there a total of 4 wires needed.
Many thanks.
Ps car looks and sounds bloody awesome👌

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77mk1_R32 said

Hey Rich, please could you explain how you wired in the brake light switch if you don't mind.
I currently have just the stock 2 pin for brake lights.
I can see on pin 55 on ecu is for brake light switch. I have that wire not connected.
Is that the only wire I need to connect with a 3 pin switch or is there a total of 4 wires needed.
Many thanks.
Ps car looks and sounds bloody awesome👌

I must admit I cheated. I used a 2 pin brake switch and used CE1 connections for brake lights.

I have a clutch switch and 4 pin brake switch but haven't got round to fitting them yet. Spoke to rubjonny and he suggested:

12v to pin 55 on ECU so it's permanently showing brake disengaged.

Earth pin 56 brake light off

I've not detected any negative effects doing this.

rubjonny said to do it properly:

Clutch switch:
blue/black - ignition live
red/white - ECU pin 39

MK4 Brake switch pins:
1 - red/brown - original brake switch red/yellow (permanent live)
2 - blue/black - ignition live
3 - yellow/white - ECU pin 55 (cruise brake switch)
4 - black/red - ECU pin 56 & original brake switch red/black (brake lights on)

You can then check functionality in VCDS.

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To be honest you have me motivated now to wire the switches. Might be a job for later :) 👍🏼.

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Spot on Rich, thanks for that.
Tho I can't see any issue with the way you have wired it.
At the end of the day all we need to do is make the ecu happy with the correct inputs and outputs as we were not running ABS etc, but not sure what effect it will have with the ECU not seing a brake input regard to engine braking etc if that's even a thing on these motors.


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Had a bit of time after work today and knocked up a crude seat height adjuster handle out of some scrap stainless. Will paint it black later.

Works a treat  :thumbs:.

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I decided to simplify the fuel system as I'm not sure if my existing fuel system will over power the fuel filter again.

So to keep things simple I will use a mk5 generation fuel pump / sender which has an integral swirl pot. This will then supply the FPR full filter and job done :). The one I've used is from a 2ltr TFSI.

I purchased a new tank a while ago before prices went crazy. It's a carb tank.

DISCLAIMER!!! -If you want to replicate what I've done do not use a fuel tank which previously had fuel in, this is super dangerous and will no doubt explode. Start with a new one like I did.

Started making the opening the pump unit would fit in. I've sunk it a bit to ensure nothing fouls the rear bench floor so I can attach the fuel lines and electrical connection easily. The fuel reading will stay full a bit longer as it doesn't reach the top of the tank. I will pressure test the tank before filling it with fuel to ensure there are no leaks.

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Excuse the slippers… Health and Safety essentials :lol:.

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I made the fuel pump unit container out of 1.5mm steel for extra strength and ease of welding. It has a mild steel ring underneath I had laser cut which will accommodate the captive bolts and a stainless ring for the top to hold the pump unit firmly against the seal.

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I placed the frame on the tank aligning it where the original sender would sit, marked and angle grinded the hole. I sunk the frame in the tank drew around it and trimmed it to the top of the tank. I used 2k epoxy on the bottom of the piece I was welding in as it's fuel resistant. I will use tank sealer for extra belt and braces before it goes in.

Then welded it in :).

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