Mellow Yellow 3.2ltr 24v Conversion
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Also the MK4 fuel rail is used, the MK5 BUB engine doesnt have a return line, is constant pressure (not sure on the right term, but there is something else wrong with the MK5 rail that i cannot remember), so you will also need the MK4 fuel rail and FPR.
The thermostat housing items and oil cooler are binned for the MK3 VR6 items, the BUB oil cooler is too big and will contact the front of the car. Not sure what eurowise has done with there new R32 mounts, if this is something that has been looked at and they have moved the engine backwards in the bay, then you can keep the BUB oil cooler?
You will need the DBW pedal from a MK5 golf, they are all the same, so don't worry about finding a R32 specific one, unless you want the aluminium pedal; this does mean that you will need some of the interior harness.
Wiring as always is the hold back on these, my mate dropped a BUB into a MK2, ended up with MK3 clocks, so like you mentioned rubjohny would be the best answer on the wiring.
Any reason for the V5 gearbox? The MK3 VR6 gearbox flywheel and clutch all bolt up to the BUB, unless the V6 does the same?
Looked at doing what you are doing, but decided on the MK3 VR6 approach instead, just more documented and i know i can do it
All the best though! the 6-Cylinders in a MK1 are just made to be there!
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Old Timer
bucket said
the main problem with the tensioners and brackets when i looked at this, all kept the PAS pump, so for fitting, the mk4 R32 brackets and pullies are used.
Also the MK4 fuel rail is used, the MK5 BUB engine doesnt have a return line, is constant pressure (not sure on the right term, but there is something else wrong with the MK5 rail that i cannot remember), so you will also need the MK4 fuel rail and FPR.
The thermostat housing items and oil cooler are binned for the MK3 VR6 items, the BUB oil cooler is too big and will contact the front of the car. Not sure what eurowise has done with there new R32 mounts, if this is something that has been looked at and they have moved the engine backwards in the bay, then you can keep the BUB oil cooler?
You will need the DBW pedal from a MK5 golf, they are all the same, so don't worry about finding a R32 specific one, unless you want the aluminium pedal; this does mean that you will need some of the interior harness.
Wiring as always is the hold back on these, my mate dropped a BUB into a MK2, ended up with MK3 clocks, so like you mentioned rubjohny would be the best answer on the wiring.
Any reason for the V5 gearbox? The MK3 VR6 gearbox flywheel and clutch all bolt up to the BUB, unless the V6 does the same?
Looked at doing what you are doing, but decided on the MK3 VR6 approach instead, just more documented and i know i can do it
All the best though! the 6-Cylinders in a MK1 are just made to be there!
Hi chap,
Thanks for all the info. Re the fuel rail, you can use the mk5 one. You need the fuel filter for the engine which has an integrated fuel pressure regulator and you get the return from there.
I will remove the stock water heat exchange unit and have a mocal kit ready to go on . The eurowise kit for the r32 is meant to allow the stock cooler to be kept. The design changed from the 12v mount kit.
The reason I went for the v5 is it has better gear ratios and is newer than the AAA vr6 boxes. The vr6 flywheel and clutch will work with the v5 as well
Should be able to use standard clocks and have a plan already
Cheers
Rich
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How much better is the V5 on ratios? And in what way, shorter ratio for drive ability or something else?
Posted
Old Timer
bucket said
well that is all good news then!
How much better is the V5 on ratios? And in what way, shorter ratio for drive ability or something else?
Yes the V5 has shorter gear ratios but will need to change out 5th gear as it will be too short for the motorway.
Posted
Old Timer
Bit of degreaser and the power washer and got it looking better. I then brass wheel brushed the aluminium oxide off.
Not sure what finish I should do it in yet.
Also got a new rocker cover powder coated black hammer finish with silver vein.
Last edit: by Rich.
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Old Timer
First sorted out the garage so I wasn't falling over myself:
The engine has some room now so I can get around it better.
Took the wings off for better access and not to damage them during the conversion.
Took the brake bar off as I have a dual circuit remote brake servo setup to go in
Took the heater set-up out as plan to use an E36 electric heater I have.
Quite a sizeable chunk of space now the heater system is out.
Last edit: by Rich.
Posted
Old Timer
No over the top shaving, chassis legs will stay the same, a few redundant holes in the bulk head removed with tabs.
Battery tray removed and battery / washer bottle in the boot. Remote brake servo under the dash where the heater was along with the electric heater.
I'm going to prep and paint the complete front end, bay, inner wings and front and then the fun starts with the new engine
Last edit: by Rich.
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Local Hero
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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Old Timer
Hairyarse said
I'm looking forward to seeing this go in - should be a bit of an animal!
Cheers chap, I hope so but quite a few hurdles and the wiring makes me cry inside
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Old Timer
FXTURE said
Gets the thumbs up from me Rich.Like where your going with it .Did you manage to get in contact with Matey from Newton abbott regarding the install of his R32 lump ?.
Thanks bud. Nah no one really wants to help with the specifics. I have a good idea of what I need to do and will share the secrets
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Old Timer
Yes the car was originally blue And now the contentious bit
Last edit: by Rich.
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Nice one
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Old Timer
Nice tidy up in the garage, got to keep some order
Following this with interest!
I keep seeing vids on Instagram of that red R32'd mk1, sounds brillaint
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Moderator
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Old Timer
i was impatient and cut it out in 3…
but after a few years realising if i ever got stopped by the coppers they would probably take the car off me i just bought a complete front end and I'm going to weld my vin onto it and then re install the rain tray
i may even re open the heater box hole
dont get me wrong it looks great but its slightly worrying as the car needs to be identifiable by a number that forms part of the chassis in the original location
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Old Timer
G60RGE said
did you get the rain tray out in one piece?
i was impatient and cut it out in 3…
but after a few years realising if i ever got stopped by the coppers they would probably take the car off me i just bought a complete front end and I'm going to weld my vin onto it and then re install the rain tray i may even re open the heater box hole dont get me wrong it looks great but its slightly worrying as the car needs to be identifiable by a number that forms part of the chassis in the original location
Hi George,
Yep got the raintray out in one piece, have photographic evidence and can be welded back no worries I was thinking of welding the VIN at the back of the heater fan hole to protect it from the elements but worried it may get covered by paint or even arrange for the strut towers to be stamped officially.
I will have the riveted plate in stock location.
I always planned to keep my Golf for the long term and as I said it's only a 1.1 shell. I'm handy with a welder and spray gun so nothing is impossible to return to stock.
Posted
Old Timer
Safety first pulled the fuel lines out the way and capped them off. Going to run stainless lines eventually.
I removed the front carpet and seats to avoid any welding splatter trashing them.
Re protecting the car when welding I have quite a large welding blanket which I used for the inside but needed something else for the windscreen.
Tip of the day - I bought a pack of 3 x 1m2 fire blankets of ebay for a tenner which are the same fibreglass treated material as the welding blanket. They worked a treat covering the top of the car.
I cleaned up the loose material left after drilling the spot welds and rain tray and welded a few unavoidable holes where the metal was stressed when removing the brackets.
Last edit: by Rich.
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