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GarytheGolf

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GarytheGolf

Just an update on my project, not the car but on my project.

I have had issues with Photobucket (PB) where I lost my links to the photos.

I have since managed to download the photos from the PB website and gradually editing each post and re-inserting the photos using the "Add Images" button here on the website.

Progress so far: pages 1 to 6 completed, only another 23 to go!

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Thanks for taking the time to post all of this :cool:I've only just found the thread so lots of reading to do. Got a TMI interior comes very soon so will be starting on about page 24 :lol:

1983 MK1 Golf four door 1.8T 20V BAM remapped, MK2 dash and loom, TMI interior.  daily.

2014 VW California 5.1 with full Sportline kit, weekend home.

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Thanks for looking, hope it helps, however I still have plenty of photos to add since Photobuckets withdrawal of free 3rd party hosting.

Best of luck with your project.

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Where did you source the white seat foam from? I'm looking to do something similar and there a quite a few sites selling foam but better the devil you know and all that!

1983 MK1 Golf four door 1.8T 20V BAM remapped, MK2 dash and loom, TMI interior.  daily.

2014 VW California 5.1 with full Sportline kit, weekend home.

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Hi, I purchased the foam from ebay. Unfortunately I do not have the original ebay listing or supplier anymore.

However, I would search for something like this which is a combination of foam and scrim:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRIM-FOAM-SEAT-UPHOLSTERY-CAR-SEATING-HEADLINING-TRIMMING-3MM-6MM-10MM-THICK/361431836950?epid=1811950533&hash=item5427042916:m:mXGkfO9NZbAPd1LgElorzew

I would suggest about 12mm to make up for the collapse of the original foam and stretch of the seat material.

Though this will vary with the type and original size of foam you are trying to replace.

I used thick across the original base and backs of the seats and thinner within the centre sections of the seat material.

It might be appropriate to get a smal sample of each size before you make your purchase.

Hope this helps.

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Hi Malc, did you do your rear seat covers? If so any chance of a heads up on the procedure please?

1983 MK1 Golf four door 1.8T 20V BAM remapped, MK2 dash and loom, TMI interior.  daily.

2014 VW California 5.1 with full Sportline kit, weekend home.

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Re:

Pete M said

Hi Malc, did you do your rear seat covers? If so any chance of a heads up on the procedure please?
Hi, just of to a family wedding weekend, can I respond when I get back, I don't work on a Monday. I give you some details then.
Regards

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

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Thanks mate, I've just tried to get it a small piece off and the fabric is shot to bits, really brittle.

I'm installing new covers from TMI so no biggie, just thought it would be nice to get them off in one piece, maybe could have do someone a favor who was looking for ratty OE covers :dry:

1983 MK1 Golf four door 1.8T 20V BAM remapped, MK2 dash and loom, TMI interior.  daily.

2014 VW California 5.1 with full Sportline kit, weekend home.

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OK, got 30 mins to go.

If the fabric is shot to bits and you are replacing it, then it will be the reverse of my posts on pages 25-27. The actual rear seat is on pages 26 - 27

Consider how your actual seat foam is as you may need to add some extra to get the full effect.

Hope this helps

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Hopefully a milestone achieved today in re-inserting many of those photos that were blocked by Photobucket.

Though there might be one or two missing, I am still searching in my many folders on my computer.

Let me know if you find any more.

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very nice project, cool lightwashers
are they working ok? my lightwashers seem to have a problem, everytime i turn them on, the water is constantly leaking through the washers holes until my fluid tank is empty
do you know what seem to be the problem?

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OK, Mine is OK, but I can see your dilemma.

The headlight washer jets are lower than the wash tank supply and the water in the tank is syphoning away. Unlike normal windscreen washer jets are generally above, water cannot go up hill unless powered by a pump.

I suspect that the headlight washer jets themselves are not functioning properly in that there is no pressure valve function to close the feed when the wash pump is not working. Alternatively the wash pump may not have a similar facility valve.

i.e. The wash pump delivers water at a high pressure opening the valve(s) in the washer jet assemblies or pump, they are probably not functioning correctly because of dirt / scale etc.





If you are able to see the  clip. The alternate system has a "retainer valve" item 6A which is a pressure valve to retain / stop the water from syphoning out.

Two suggestions, remove the washers jet assemblies off your bumper and the pump from the tank. Careful with the nuts on the jet asemblies, liberal WD40 for a while to undo the nuts. Disconnect the washer pipes and remove from the car.

Clean and back flush the internals, maybe descale with a bottle of descaler with warm or hot washer. Test on a garden hose, then the car for the spray pattern.

If not successful, I would suggest fitting an after market pressure valve either in the main feed line from the or in each headlight line.

Hope this helps

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ok, thanks a lot, i will see what's going on once the weather is warm, if the cleaning does not help i will try a valve

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Wow , this is very in detail build thread very informative and final outcome is amazing, this really gives a person huge motivation to complete their project.

i noticed a thermoswitch housing which no one is familiar with South Africa, yet my car had this switch connected until it started leaking and i had to remove it, i would like to find out if you can assist with how it is wired up as i have managed to source a new one and would like to connect it once the cars engine is back in.

http://s436.photobucket.com/user/MRAE1795/media/P1030108.jpg.html


img host

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  mk1-golf-1.5-thermoswitch-housing-035919369-jetta-scirocco-audi-15833-p.jpg
thank you for you assistance your build is just too amazing

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the red switch is for the inlet manifold heater, grey for the autochoke. if you dont have the original carb with autochoke you only need the red one, which has purple/black and black wires to it usually.

the autochoke one usually yellow/black and black

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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GarytheGolf

Thanks for the comments.

Looks like Rubjonny has answered the question for you. Even I have had clarification here of its function.

I originally wired it up using the Haynes manual when I had the original carb fitted.

I have since replaced the carb with a Weber, so only using the manifold preheater.

Sent from my H3113 using Tapatalk

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rubjonny said

the red switch is for the inlet manifold heater, grey for the autochoke. if you dont have the original carb with autochoke you only need the red one, which has purple/black and black wires to it usually.

the autochoke one usually yellow/black and black

Thank you for the detailed response i now understand how it operates, i have checked out my carb and it does not have a autochoke. i then checked the inlet manifold and that has a pre-heater at the bottom rear with a wire attached to it. i will then only make use of the manifold pre heater.

thank you again Rubjonny and Malcolm for the assistance .

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cool so the pre-heater thermoswitch is wired to a relay at the fusebox, which then powers the pre-heater. the heater has a thicker red/white wire with a spade connection round the back of the engine somewhere which goes off to the relay :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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