Issue with dash cluster

Now there's a thought, my Speedo started playing up and eventually stopped working last year. It's been one of those 'to do' jobs that id never gotten round to. I'll look for a guide on how to fix the Speedo, unless you can point me in the direction of one? Would it be possible the the cable has disconnected from the back and then screwed with the rest of the cluster?

There where 2 versions of Speedometer cables, and a couple of variations of the versions.  The Early ones had a screw on connection the latter a Clip on.

The Clip on ones can easily be popped off the back of the speedo if you man-handle the cable under the hood trust me I know it well.

Others had a 2 piece cable that went from the tranny, to a box with a button, then from the box to the speedo.  This was the counter to set off the Check engine light when it thought that the o2 sensor needed to be replaced as the button is a reset. You can replace that 2 piece cable with a one piece off a 90's but you would still need the box connected to reset the o2 light.

The 90's all had one piece cable from the tranny-to-the-speedo.

If your speedometer as well as odometer isn't working then usually it's the cable.  If the odometer isn't working but the speedometer is then it is the Drive gear internal to the clocks is either missing teeth, or slipping on the shaft.

First remove the Drivers side Heater vent, then worm your arm way to the back of the speedo and you can usually feel it and see if it has popped off, if it did you can also snap it back on.

I forgot that there were the Automatics, and the Standards, the Manuals also had or have issues with the gear on the tranny getting stripped or falling out.
As in the c-clip allows the gear to slide down and stop the engagement of the speedo internal cable.
 

Update!

So I had the instrument cluster out today. After fiddling around and checking all the wires for any heat damage, i put it back together. Also checked out the Speedo, looked ok to me, although the very end of it seemed slightly rounded which I'm not sure is normal or not. The Speedo cable goes straight from the cluster to the tranny. After tracing it back, I can see how it can easily be dislodged whilst working in the engine compartment.

Reconnected the battery and checked everything out. Found the following.

• The LCD clock was working again.
• The handbrake light was now working.

Started her up, and the temperature gauge soon went up to max, although there was no flashing light this time.

Drove for 5 minutes to a friend's house to check the Speedo, and that's now working, although it does bounce slightly, possibly due to it being slight rounded off I wonder.

Turned the car off for 5 mins and started again letting it run at idle. Temp guage stopped at just over half way. Cooling fan kicks in as expected.  Drove for another 10 or so miles and everything was perfect.

So not really sure what's happened as the only thing I think I really fixed was the Speedo by pushing the coupling tight at the back of the cluster.

Taking her on an 80mile round trip tomorrow so will see if anything creeps back up.

Cheers briano1234 for your advice.



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Speedo bounce can be the speedo, but usually the cable is binding.

The cluster re-connect probably made or cleaned the pin-to-connectors, that is why "plumping" it works wonders, that is you remove the shroud over the connector


Carefully take the mylar off the plastic tongue
Add one piece of electrical tape on the pin side of the plastic tongue, and replace the mylar and shroud.



This simple fix will resolve a lot of flakiness, and you will notice that the connector fits tighter…

The other is to splice in to the Brown (earth) wire at the wire side about 4 inches back and add a ground right to the frame with a small pilot hole a quick scrub to metal around the hole and a sheet metal screw.



About the only place I use a quick connect.

Braved the 80 mile round trip today as the weather was amazing and I couldn't resist. Outward journey was perfect, the temperature gauge sat bang on half way and no red flashing light. Even sat in traffic for an hour and the car didn't fault at all. Thought I was on to a winner until the journey home. Within less than a mile the temperature was showing max and the light flashing. I pulled over and turned the engine off, started back up and it behaved for about 5 or so miles. Paranoia set in and stopped off at a car park, popped the bonnet and checked that the fan was kicking in. The rocker cover didn't seem excessively hot. Set off again with the guage reading just above half, but the light started flashing soon enough. With 10 miles left to go I had to stop again and check everything was ok. The last part of the journey, the gauge behaved perfectly!

Think this is the last of the glorious February weather so I won't be out again for a while. In the meantime I'll give the 'plumping' method a go and the earth.

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Blinky light can be low coolant, and it won't go out till you shut it off.  Make sure that your level is above the full mark, I usually have it on the seam of the top.

The Center sensor has 2 probes that can get calcified, so you may want to clean those as well as verifying that your Center Sensor hole has a Hole in it about 3/4 of the way up… I have seen some aftermarkets that fail to have that hole so the fluid can't bleed through and an ait bubble develops there.

Be sure that you take the nuts off the back of the gauge and Brush the threads with steel wool, and polish the Washer and nut as well on all 3 threads.

Hi, wondering if you can help me on this one Briano, I've 2 clusters and 1 has a fair few issues, however when I switch ignition on the lcd will always stay on, the other cluster I have seeming only has one issue.
When I switch the ignition on with this cluster in, everything works, oil light, battery light, fuel and temp gauges along with tacho. The only problem I'm finding is that the lcd display turns off as soon as ignition is on or engine running, as soon as ignition is off the lcd comes back to life. 
Any ideas? Thanks

Mk1dubber said

The only problem I'm finding is that the lcd display turns off as soon as ignition is on or engine running, as soon as ignition is off the lcd comes back to life. 
Any ideas? Thanks

LCD as in the black display of numbers, or the back light?  Is it with the key in only or key in and the run position?  as if it was the key in and run to key out, then I would say that you probably need to look at the clock in pin 6 red.





If it is a MFA then you have a whole different thing.

It still is the red wire.


If it is just the clock then there are threads in here that have a external thread for the replacing of the clock.

First thing I would check is the main earth from the Rocker cover left rear to the firewall at the Coil Bracket.

replacement
 https://www.uniwerksdesign.com/product-tag/digital-clock/

There are a few how-to's on that  you just have to SEARCH.

So it's the lcd that goes off when the ignition is switched on, otherwise it shows the time, when I plug the mfa clocks in, then they stay active with ignition off and on and also engine running. 

Sorry never had a MFA.