1992 vw cabriolet water pump question

I want to replace a leaky water pump. I find a 30mm hub or 40mm hub. Which one do I need to get? Does it matter?

Ummmm its secured with M6 bolts?

Do you mean the pulley?


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Yes there is the Variety of Hub Choices, and it all depends on what style of water pump pulley you have.

It is easy enough to measure it from under the car with the Wheel off.

Do you mean the crank pulley that gets in the way of removing the plastic cam belt cover that covers 1 or 2 of the water pump bolts? You leave the centre bolt in and remove the Allen key bolts and tap of the pulley off

If you have a 92 with or without a/c it is easier to take it out as an assembly from the rear.

how I do it…. Easier to measure the WP hub.

How I change out my Water Pump | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Great advise. Still sounds like a pita but ok it is what it is. So i might as well deal

I have in the past with all the cars that I have owned have taken the water pump off the engine.
We are talking MG's, AH Sprites, GM, Dodge, Rovers, Toyotas, Hondas, you name it…..

When I took my leaking water pump off my first Rabbit/Golf I was in for a "Treat" or "Vexation" depending on your outlook.

1. There isn't much Clearance between your Ratchet and the pump.
2. The Pumps housing where the bolts go through are open at the rear allowing corrosion to start between the bolt (steel) and the Housing (aluminum).
3. I have Snapped the heads off the Bolts, as the corrosion was there (yes it was a 1 owner car, and I only had 100K on the clock). After getting the broken bits out (It snapped the head at the pumpside of the housing) so I could get Vice-grips on it.  I lastly going back stripped the t-stat cover bolt. (fixed it with a longer bolt and washered nut.

Taking it off the car as an assembly is only 4 bolts that are Steel into steel.

With the assembly on a bench where you can get to it, you can soak all the bolts from the rear with PB-Blaster, Kroil, or what ever you use…Let it work for a while.

If you have a Battery or electric impact tool USE ONLY 6 Point sockets to remove the bolts makes it less likely that you will break a bolt

Here is a Spare WP that I used only a 1/4 Ratchet and Socket on  the bench without using PB-Blaster on the bolts.



Chasing the threads with a tap is a good thing but always Clean the Bolts and use never-seize on them going back.

When you return the bolts to the housing you only need 87 in/lbs  or 9.83nm of torque.  It prevents strippage.

Just make sure you get the t-bolt inserted before you bolt the thing back. (been there done that it is a PITA to position in afterwards).

When you are finished replacing and re-torqueing the bolts, Spray the Back Side of the bolt holes with a corrosion preventative spray (ie: Battery Corrosion paint works great)


Just a further bit of information for those that don't like to click how-to's.