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Sorry to repeat old topics but im confused. Setting up the timing after head gasket change and my flywheel has two notches as usual. One round dot (tdc) and a chisel mark (6btdc)?
I have the camshaft and dizzy lined up but do i need to set to 0 or 6btdc? Mixed posts on here. With the main cracnkshaft pulley mark facing up to the arrow on the cover, the flywheel is showing the dot in the middle of the hole, but the diamond mark has a clear tipex paint on it slightly further round and dont understand why?

Is that to make it clear when or if someones used a timing light?

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Did you remove the dissy when changing the head gasket?
If you just removed the cam belt you should not need to set the timing, just make sure the cam belt marks line up and turn the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure nothing hits.

Then start it up and see how it runs.

The white mark on the diamond is to make it clear when using a timing light.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Cheers mark. I didn't take it off no. Just stuck the head back on, fitted the camshaft and lined up the marks. i faffed for a bit getting all marks lined up without the crank moving when i tightened the tensioner. It fired up this morning and ran a bit rough but the belt tension was a bit loose. Check the timing again and was a tad bit out.
So shall i just ignore the diamond mark then and get everything else lined up as per then fire it up?

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Also, on a similar subject, once i have it timed up fine i am not 100% sure where to start in getting the ignition timing bob on. Do i have to have a timing light?? The more i read on here, its more clear that i had flat spots aswell because i used normal unleaded and not super unleaded.
I have always built it all up then send to a garage to tweek but i want to do as much as i can and learn it properly

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Diesel or gasser?

There are 2 marks, and the year and model can depends on where you time it,

The (0) mark on the flywheel is 0TDC
The Diamond groove is the 6BTDC mark.

You set static time as the crank is at 0tdc.
The Cam Pulley's Dimple on the back is even with the valve cover tin not the rebar straps.
The diz  had the rotor in the middle of the hash mark stamped on the side frame of the diz.

Belt deflection should be 1/2 twist of the belt between the intermediate shaft pulley, and the Cam Gear.

Start the car and let it cycle the fan one time, then loosen the diz locking bolt so that with a timing light you have the diamond notch showing under the finger of the transmission.

On a CIS-e or Digifant, you set the Base time as the same but then you move the crank to the 6tdc mark The Came and diz follows.

CAREFULLY REMOVE the Rubber boot off the Distributor hall sender connection.  I usually unplug the connector first prior to removing the rubber boot, then re-connect the plug.
Loosen the Diz clamp bolt
Using the green white wire you jam (carefully) the red probe of a DVOM in to the green/white wire.
and the Negative lead of the DVOM to Frame or Battery Negative.  
Key in and in the run position.
slowly turn the diz and you will see the voltage go from high to low, that is 10 or 11V to 0v.  Back the Diz and then bring forward again once at 0 Tighten the clamp on the diz and you should be done.  I have also have done the 0time mark and rotated the diz.

The Standard Procedure of setting time on the Digi is to set base 0 time. Start the car. let it cycle the fan once.
Then remove the Blue CTS sensor and Rev the engine over 3000 rpm 3 times, and hold it at 2250 rpm.
Then using the timing light you set the time at 6BTDC.
Takes two hands, and a partner to usually hold it at 2250…  The first way is fast and easy, and a no brainer.

The DVOM method on Diz is easier, quicker, and you will hear the fuel pumps run when you go from 10-11V to 0V so you have an audible clue as well.

Diesels are a different breed, and if you have a diesel then the timing is different, similar but totally different.
And very tragic if you have it off by as much as one tooth.


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Thanks Brian. its a petrol CIS.

With it being a CIS, just using the timing light will get it pretty much on the money by adjusting the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise until the diamond is bang in the centre of the hole.

I have heard of the other part of testing on the hall sender connection but thats for digifant only?


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I have heard of the other part of testing on the hall sender connection but thats for digifant only?

I suspect it may work on CIS as we used to use a 12V lamp on older Beetles to set the time… :)

But it is just as easy on CIS to use a timing light, it isn't so much of a 2 person job.

There is also the Duty-cycle to contend with and that is talked about at www.cabby-info.com and would require the use of a Dwell meter.  My DVOM can do well as well as temp…. I do know that you can see the hall sender work with the green/white wire on any electronic diz.



What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Ok great thanks alot for the help. i will head over to cabby-info. i like that site. Tonight i got the timing marks all bang on and did a few rotations by hand and they all lines up after so i fired it up and it ran great straight away, (until fuel was pouring out from the WUR because a washer was missing from the smaller union, which wasnt fitted before but hey ho i sorted that). Fired her back up, she got nice and warm-ish and then smoke started filling up the engine bay from the spring clamps on the exahust manifold/exhaust pipe connection. Lucky me. No idea why its gone all of a sudden but it is defo that, i got right underneath as it ran and it was clear the seal must of broken.
Looks like a fun job. Easy way to do it without all these wedges my bentley mentions??

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Yes, it is easy to remove the spring clips.
Just fling them off #2 Phillips in the hole.
Or
Use a muffler clamp backasswards.


to put on or take off

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Awesome! Ill grab some of those tomorrow then

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Make sure you fit new C clips, there are only really designed to be used once.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-CABRIOLET-MK2-CADDY-SCIROCCO-EXHAUST-GASKET-CLAMP-161298115-A280/221347468477?fits=Model%3AGolf&epid=1527153935&hash=item33895654bd:g:om4AAOxyA7tSZnGi

You can just buy the clips as well, I think GSF still sell them?

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Luckily i got the c clips and the graphite/lead seal in my head gasket set so all is good. Strange thing though is that i let it idle this morning for 45 mins to see if it was just burning something off and after about 30 mins the smoke stopped. There was some moisture in the exhaust fumes on my hand whilst idling and again after a while that cleared up mostly.
I worried that something was leaking coolant into the head or block and coming out at the exhaust, but im confused how it could leak from the manifold-exhaust seal and then stop after it got hot.
The car was still for 3 weeks and the manifold barely moved whilst the head was off. Heard about condensation and stuff when a new head gasket etc has been put on. Just never experienced it before on other rebuilds. No oil etc in the expansion. will check plugs and the oil cap tonight

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Yes cross contamination can occur  when changing components.

A lot of condensate can build up in the exhaust silencers, and can take a while to vent…. A little oil in the exhaust can cause a heck of a lot of smoke and can take a while to burn off as well.   

Leaks at the exhaust can cause all kinds of mischief.

Ca-Ca-Can-Occur….. Ship Happens if it stopped then I wouldn't be too concerned as it was probably from the Process, and now that you have replaced the faulty exhaust seal at the manifold all the crabbage that was in the exhaust is now getting hot enough to burn/boil out as the full exhaust system is now getting up to operating temp.  

Usually before and after a engine repair I tend to run an engine flush for oil and coolant prior to and post repair…. I always change the oil filter @ 300 km after the  rebuild or repair.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Seems to be the case. Let it warm up this morning, took it for a drive, all well and pulls much better and changes gear better after the rebuilt head and bushes on the linkages. drove it to work and still all good. Just condensation and junk left over being burnt off. Happy days!!

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AWESOME…… Haven't driven mine in a few days,,,,, as I have no issues with it, it is that I am moving and tossing 25 yrs of garbage out so I am using the Van more……


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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