Cam timing
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#1595098
(In Topic #216795)
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I have the camshaft and dizzy lined up but do i need to set to 0 or 6btdc? Mixed posts on here. With the main cracnkshaft pulley mark facing up to the arrow on the cover, the flywheel is showing the dot in the middle of the hole, but the diamond mark has a clear tipex paint on it slightly further round and dont understand why?
Is that to make it clear when or if someones used a timing light?
Posted
Local Hero
If you just removed the cam belt you should not need to set the timing, just make sure the cam belt marks line up and turn the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure nothing hits.
Then start it up and see how it runs.
The white mark on the diamond is to make it clear when using a timing light.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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So shall i just ignore the diamond mark then and get everything else lined up as per then fire it up?
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I have always built it all up then send to a garage to tweek but i want to do as much as i can and learn it properly
Posted
Local Hero
There are 2 marks, and the year and model can depends on where you time it,
The (0) mark on the flywheel is 0TDC
The Diamond groove is the 6BTDC mark.
You set static time as the crank is at 0tdc.
The Cam Pulley's Dimple on the back is even with the valve cover tin not the rebar straps.
The diz had the rotor in the middle of the hash mark stamped on the side frame of the diz.
Belt deflection should be 1/2 twist of the belt between the intermediate shaft pulley, and the Cam Gear.
Start the car and let it cycle the fan one time, then loosen the diz locking bolt so that with a timing light you have the diamond notch showing under the finger of the transmission.
On a CIS-e or Digifant, you set the Base time as the same but then you move the crank to the 6tdc mark The Came and diz follows.
CAREFULLY REMOVE the Rubber boot off the Distributor hall sender connection. I usually unplug the connector first prior to removing the rubber boot, then re-connect the plug.
Loosen the Diz clamp bolt
Using the green white wire you jam (carefully) the red probe of a DVOM in to the green/white wire.
and the Negative lead of the DVOM to Frame or Battery Negative.
Key in and in the run position.
slowly turn the diz and you will see the voltage go from high to low, that is 10 or 11V to 0v. Back the Diz and then bring forward again once at 0 Tighten the clamp on the diz and you should be done. I have also have done the 0time mark and rotated the diz.
The Standard Procedure of setting time on the Digi is to set base 0 time. Start the car. let it cycle the fan once.
Then remove the Blue CTS sensor and Rev the engine over 3000 rpm 3 times, and hold it at 2250 rpm.
Then using the timing light you set the time at 6BTDC.
Takes two hands, and a partner to usually hold it at 2250… The first way is fast and easy, and a no brainer.
The DVOM method on Diz is easier, quicker, and you will hear the fuel pumps run when you go from 10-11V to 0V so you have an audible clue as well.
Diesels are a different breed, and if you have a diesel then the timing is different, similar but totally different.
And very tragic if you have it off by as much as one tooth.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
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With it being a CIS, just using the timing light will get it pretty much on the money by adjusting the dizzy clockwise/anti-clockwise until the diamond is bang in the centre of the hole.
I have heard of the other part of testing on the hall sender connection but thats for digifant only?
Posted
Local Hero
I have heard of the other part of testing on the hall sender connection but thats for digifant only?
I suspect it may work on CIS as we used to use a 12V lamp on older Beetles to set the time…
But it is just as easy on CIS to use a timing light, it isn't so much of a 2 person job.
There is also the Duty-cycle to contend with and that is talked about at www.cabby-info.com and would require the use of a Dwell meter. My DVOM can do well as well as temp…. I do know that you can see the hall sender work with the green/white wire on any electronic diz.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Looks like a fun job. Easy way to do it without all these wedges my bentley mentions??
Posted
Local Hero
Just fling them off #2 Phillips in the hole.
Or
Use a muffler clamp backasswards.
to put on or take off
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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Posted
Local Hero
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-CABRIOLET-MK2-CADDY-SCIROCCO-EXHAUST-GASKET-CLAMP-161298115-A280/221347468477?fits=Model%3AGolf&epid=1527153935&hash=item33895654bd:g:om4AAOxyA7tSZnGi
You can just buy the clips as well, I think GSF still sell them?
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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I worried that something was leaking coolant into the head or block and coming out at the exhaust, but im confused how it could leak from the manifold-exhaust seal and then stop after it got hot.
The car was still for 3 weeks and the manifold barely moved whilst the head was off. Heard about condensation and stuff when a new head gasket etc has been put on. Just never experienced it before on other rebuilds. No oil etc in the expansion. will check plugs and the oil cap tonight
Posted
Local Hero
A lot of condensate can build up in the exhaust silencers, and can take a while to vent…. A little oil in the exhaust can cause a heck of a lot of smoke and can take a while to burn off as well.
Leaks at the exhaust can cause all kinds of mischief.
Ca-Ca-Can-Occur….. Ship Happens if it stopped then I wouldn't be too concerned as it was probably from the Process, and now that you have replaced the faulty exhaust seal at the manifold all the crabbage that was in the exhaust is now getting hot enough to burn/boil out as the full exhaust system is now getting up to operating temp.
Usually before and after a engine repair I tend to run an engine flush for oil and coolant prior to and post repair…. I always change the oil filter @ 300 km after the rebuild or repair.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Posted
Local Hero
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
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