Anyone running thier 1.8T swap on Emerald K6...I have a few questions

I have just brought myself another mk1 gti with a 1.8T swap running on a emerald ECU installed and set-up by Total VAG. The previous owner who I have known for some time simply told me he paid for a drive in&out conversion and although it looks like its been done to a high standard I have few questions and concerns as previously to this everything turbo I have ever had has been Jap imports so I am not familer with the 1.8T or Emerald ECUs

1) After looking around the downpipe and along the exhaust it appears I dont have a lambda sensor plumbed in… I find this quite strange as im running a stand alone ECU…anyone seen this before?

2) The car appears to be running quite rich..on idle when you rev there are small black clouds and the car smells of fuel….maybe because of the above!?!?

3)I can see the conversion utilises the original VAG loom which was adapted to fit the Emerald K6 ECU and kept the N75 valve (this is used to control boost I think?) although the car drives fine on WOT i don't think im getting much boost as at the moment it seems as quick a mk4 1.8T 150bhp…and that weight quite abit more!


I plan on calling up Total VAG tomorrow to see if I can get some of the above answered but I was just wondering if someone could fill me in with the above or share your experiences running this ECU on the 1.8T.


A massive thanks in advance!


Cheers

Waj
 

First please allow for the fact I may be talking complete rubbish. I ran an emerald ecu over 10 years ago non turbo, abf on throttle bodies. it did not have a lambda. I believe while one might be used to set the engine up on the dyno, its then done.  Later stand alones or different makes may differ.

I'm thinking the same.. I managed to connect to the ECU on my laptop and noticed the Lambda/o2 sensor tab is greyed out so I guess it doesn't have one which would be alarming for me usually…

Further more I noticed under boost under WOT im readying 1.54 PSI…lol

I will be double checking all the hoses tomorrow to start with.. I have heard N75 valves are prone to failing…anyway to test these or run a MBC in its place?

I have the emerald an I have no lamba an also run a little rich
Give jhon at emerald a call he is a very helpful

Today I disconnected the N75 and connected a Manual boost controller and set it minimum.

I am now boosting to 9/10.2 PSI which is a huge improvement over the sub 2psi I was getting on the N75.

Am I right to assume my N75 valve is faulty?…ideally I'd prefer to run the N75

sounds like it may be the problem  

Just a quick update…so I replaced the n75 with a brand new unit and removed the manual boost controller and I'm back to square one I.e 1.5 psi of boost!

I have double checked the loom for the n75 and it all seems fine..I'm certain it's not a boost leak either as when using a manual boost controller I hit and hold around 10 psi.

Am I right in thinking the ecu control the boost via the n75? 

another update….

I have checked the plug to the n75 and can confirm both wires are showing 0 volts…after doing abit of reading apparently this should not be the case.

According to the Emerald FAQ section one of these  wires should connect to Pin out 21  on the ecu for the earth feed  and the other requires a 12v feed.

I have one yellow/black wire and another green/brown wire which is thinner on the n75 plug…does anyone know which one of this is meant to be the live feed?… I imagine the N75  is suppose to have  a constant live and the Emerald ECU sends pulses through the other wire to control boost via the N75?…or I could be completely wrong!

From memory (which is failing me these days) Emerald ( and maybe all ecu,s work in this way for all I know) does supply a live feed to things, injectors for example, and control them by the return current on the earth side.

I'm finding alot on conflicting information on the net…and even then its all based on the fact people are running OEM ecu's  with the N75.

Can anyone confirm which out of the yellow/black or Green/brown should be the live? (I'm certain it should be the thicker yellow/black one)

further more after having a look on the wiring harness, I can confirm I have nothing connected to pin 21..which adds to the confusion and begs the question how the fudge is the ECU meant to control the N75 without a feed from pin 21!??

Recently while considering buying a used k3, I gave the serial no to emerald who told me who purchased it and the map it should contain,, sure you should speak to them, if you haven't.