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"TAG" - 1983 Campaign restoration blog

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Rear door cards, seatbelts and parcel shelf supports installed.

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Loving your work there. Lots of good info in those posts. I think I'll copy the speaker wire bellows, the door catch modification and if I feel brave enough, the door cards!

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Next project was upgrading the wiper motor - swapping it for a later motor.

Here is the original MK1 motor and frame next to a MK3 :

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As you can see the MK1 and MK3 motors are remarkably similar BUT they are handed differently.
Having looked online at the options for upgrading the motor there seemed to be two options.
First, removed the metal backplate of the MK1 motor & reattach that to the MK3 motor.  To do this though, you need a MK3 motor with a METAL backplate - not the plastic back plate as shown in the above photo.  That way you can use the existing MK1 bracket, that is part of the metal backplate and plug. The alternative is to leave the MK3 motor alone - but have to make a new bracket and section of loom to connect the MK3 motor plug to the existing MK1 loom plug.
I was initially keen on swapping the backplates.  I drilled out the rivets on the MK1 motor - but then looking at the rather delicate internals this covered - decided not to interfere with the MK3 motor after all.  

If you don't use the MK1 motor back plate you don't have a means of supporting the frame using the existing MK1 bracket fixed to the body.  As shown below.

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And here with the MK3 motor attached to the frame.  As you can see it has a different orientation than the MK1 motor when mounted.
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I didn't like the idea of the frame/motor just being supported on the wiper spindles and no lower support.  I therefore decided to copy another members (Paceman) solution by making a bracket and fixing it to the frame.

Bit fiddly, but made a cardboard template first with the frame/motor in position on the car.  
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MK3 motor all cleaned up.  You do need to fit the MK1 crank to the MK3 spindle as the MK1 drive arms wont fit over the MK3 crank end.  Thankfully the splined shaft is the same diameter on both BUT you need the MK3 13mm nut to hold it on, rather than the MK1 10mm.

Drilled four new mounting holes for the bracket.
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Pop riveted on the bracket
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Bolted on the MK3 motor to the MK1 frame
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Lines up really well.
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Connected the MK3 plug to the MK3 plug.
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All connected and working!
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Also added a P clip to support the loom going to the wipers.
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cdgthreesalmons said

Next project was upgrading the wiper motor - swapping it for a later motor.

Here is the original MK1 motor and frame next to a MK3 :

As you can see the MK1 and MK3 motors are remarkably similar BUT they are handed differently.
Having looked online at the options for upgrading the motor there seemed to be two options.
First, removed the metal backplate of the MK1 motor & reattach that to the MK3 motor.  To do this though, you need a MK3 motor with a METAL backplate - not the plastic back plate as shown in the above photo.  That way you can use the existing MK1 bracket, that is part of the metal backplate and plug. The alternative is to leave the MK3 motor alone - but have to make a new bracket and section of loom to connect the MK3 motor plug to the existing MK1 loom plug.
I was initially keen on swapping the backplates.  I drilled out the rivets on the MK1 motor - but then looking at the rather delicate internals this covered - decided not to interfere with the MK3 motor after all.

If you don't use the MK1 motor back plate you don't have a means of supporting the frame using the existing MK1 bracket fixed to the body.  As shown below.


And here with the MK3 motor attached to the frame.  As you can see it has a different orientation than the MK1 motor when mounted.


I didn't like the idea of the frame/motor just being supported on the wiper spindles and no lower support.  I therefore decided to copy another members (Paceman) solution by making a bracket and fixing it to the frame.

Bit fiddly, but made a cardboard template first with the frame/motor in position on the car.

MK3 motor all cleaned up.  You do need to fit the MK1 crank to the MK3 spindle as the MK1 drive arms wont fit over the MK3 crank end.  Thankfully the splined shaft is the same diameter on both BUT you need the MK3 13mm nut to hold it on, rather than the MK1 10mm.

Drilled four new mounting holes for the bracket.

Pop riveted on the bracket

Bolted on the MK3 motor to the MK1 frame

Lines up really well.

Connected the MK3 plug to the MK3 plug.


All connected and working!

Also added a P clip to support the loom going to the wipers.


Nice mod :thumbs:.

I bet that zips along now. Mine is so slow I might upgrade to a mk3 motor ;).

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Good job! Your fabrication looks a bit tidier than mine :)

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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Here are the door cards all fitted.  Pretty pleased with the finished result.  One mistake I made was to glue all the black vinyl to the new cards.  Originally it was only glue in certain areas.  This meant that when I pushed through the new door card retaining clips from the wrong side - they pushed the glued vinyl away from the backing and left a small bump that is sadly visible from the front.  I can live with that - learn for the next one!

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I noted that once the dashboard was installed the heater control "unit" seemed very wobbly.  It is in fact held to the metal frame of the dashboard - with is held to the "pressed cardboard" dash by rivets.  The rivet in the bottom left corner had pulled through the cardboard so was providing no support.  I therefore made a new metal support section that braced the front of the dash to the side dash support.  Drilled out the old rivet and then re-riveted with the new section.  Also added some seam sealer to the joints.  Now feels really strong.

Bottom left rivet torn through dashboard face.
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Newly made and painted strengthening
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The side support that I could rivet the new metal bracket into
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All installed.  What a difference
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Instrument cluster in and facia added.

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All the interior floor covered in Kilmat sound insulation.

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I had to remove all the old VAG felt/bitumen sound insulation to treat rust etc.

To replace it I chose a product called "PeaceMAT XX".  This is closed cell foam (doesn't hold water unlike traditional felt), covered in a 1.2mm rubber barrier layer.
This acts as sound deadening and thermal insulation.  Really impressed with it.  I bought 12mm thick for the bulkhead and tunnel, slightly thinner for the floor.

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In the meantime I thoroughly washed the carpets!

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With the carpet all clean and refitted it was time to tackle the centre console and gauges.  

The old wiring was not good!!! and I didn't have an oil pressure gauge.  I decided to replace the clock for oil pressure.

The old wiring.
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Firstly I ran new wire of the correct colours through the engine bay loom.  A tricky, knuckle bashing exercise but so much neater.
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New wires ready for connecting up
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I could tee into the lighter lighting connector for the lighting
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And use the main earth point by the fuse box.

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Power from the 12v switched supply on the fusebox
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Then run the new wires through some sleeving and fit a multi-connector to make future removal easier.

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Now the engine compartment fittings.

New oil pressure gauge fitted to the end of the head. IMG_20221011_142103672.jpg

New VDO "tee" piece to fit the oil temp sender.
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Had to remove the oil cooler pipes and the distributor to be able get a spanner on it
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Clean up the tired bezels on the old gauges

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The "just" wire it all together!
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Finished!
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As the end is finally approaching…………. it was time to get the seats ready for the trimmers.

As typical of these cars, the bolster fabric has worn through, the base fabric is a little "thin" and worn and a few seams had split.

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I started with the back seat - the base of which was really quite poor.  The "cardboard" edging that holds the fabric to the frame had mostly disintegrated and the metal underneath was pretty rusty.

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Front seat base held together with safety pins!
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Interesting how the seat base is seperate from the seat bolsters…… I didn't realise that till now.  
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Fait amount of rust and some corrosion on the seat base.
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Nice to find the original VAG stickers still attached
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Seat base with just the foam bolsters in place.  These are glues to the metal.  
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Once carefully separated from the metal.  
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Drivers seat bolster showing wear and splits
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Stripped down backrest
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All ready for stripping, rust treatment and then re-painting
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As the end is finally approaching…………. it was time to get the seats ready for the trimmers.

As typical of these cars, the bolster fabric has worn through, the base fabric is a little "thin" and worn and a few seams had split.

IMG_20221107_093419911.jpg

I started with the back seat - the base of which was really quite poor.  The "cardboard" edging that holds the fabric to the frame had mostly disintegrated and the metal underneath was pretty rusty.

IMG_20221102_151600784.jpg

IMG_20221102_151608528.jpg

IMG_20221102_151621862.jpg

Front seat base held together with safety pins!
IMG_20221107_094609420_HDR.jpg

Interesting how the seat base is seperate from the seat bolsters…… I didn't realise that till now.  
IMG_20221107_095241152_HDR.jpg

Fait amount of rust and some corrosion on the seat base.
IMG_20221107_095319974.jpg

Nice to find the original VAG stickers still attached
IMG_20221107_114123722.jpg

IMG_20221107_114136540.jpg

Seat base with just the foam bolsters in place.  These are glues to the metal.  
IMG_20221115_092504948.jpg

Once carefully separated from the metal.  
IMG_20221115_092518791.jpg

Drivers seat bolster showing wear and splits
IMG_7164.JPG

IMG_7165.JPG

Stripped down backrest
IMG_20221115_143759728.jpg

All ready for stripping, rust treatment and then re-painting
IMG_20221117_155959864.jpg

IMG_7167.JPG

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More cracking work sir!
Are you going to replace the bolsters or repair them? I only had one bad one so repaired it. Turned out pretty well. Some useful content on Youtube to guide.

J

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To
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